Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Feb 17, 2004 10:10am | #1

   dj-

   I think you'll need spindle gouges for doing turned legs and the like. The skew is the single most difficult turning tool to master, especially for doing any kind of beads or coves. I would agree that if you get the hang of skew chisel work you get the finest finish right off the tool but it takes lots of practice.

   The main reason (as I understand it - I'm no expert on this) for the oval cross section on the skews is that they slide more easily on the tool rest. My Sorby skews have one edge that's rounded and the other edge is (was) square with sharp corners. I immediately files these square corners off so I wasn't constantly catching them on the tool rest and making knicks in it. That's something to keep in mind as well - part of maintaining a lathe is periodic draw filing of the top of the tool rest to keep it nice and smooth and straight. No dings makes for a smoothly moving tool! (grin)

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

2. 
   jako17 | Feb 17, 2004 05:23pm | #2

   The fluted tool is hard on the tool rest unless you wrap the bottom edge with something(not as far as the cutting tip)Use a handsaw blade protector.My suggestion to you is read a lot rather than buying every tool out there.Turning is very individual almost every tool you buy, you will grind differently to its original shape.Many can be homemade .Get some tuition ,start turning using very basic tools ,then you will get an idea of what you need.IMO lathe tool makers are like fishing lure makers a lot of the tools are to fish you in.It is a tradition going back to Holzappel and Victorian ornamental lathes. Above all have fun !I turn both professionally and for recreation.

3. 
   GeeSeaWhy | Feb 18, 2004 02:25am | #3

   Stick with just one skew. As Dennis said, it is the hardest tool to master. You will get good results much more easily with gouges. The fluted parting tool is supposed to give a cleaner cut by severing the fibers at the edges of the tool first then clearing the middle portion. I wouldn't bother with it initially - you'll just keep wondering whether you've sharpened it properly. And in general, I would recommend that you not buy top of the line tools to begin with. The Sorby/Crown/Henry Taylor tools that Woodcraft and Lee Valley sell are perfectly good and you don't want to learn sharpening on very expensive steel.

   HTH

   Graeme

1. 
   djcolorado | Feb 18, 2004 08:00am | #4

   My list has a 1 1/2" roughing gouge, a 1/2" spindle gouge, a 1" skew (probably oval) and a 1/8" parting tool.   Unless I get advice otherwise, I was planning on skipping on scrapers to start with.   If these are missing the mark, please let me know, and thanks to everybody for the information.

1. 
   notDusty | Feb 18, 2004 09:21am | #5

                   Hi dj,

       Personally I find the scraper type cutting tools much easier to control, and a lot less prone to digging in too deep . My experience with gouges is that they will dig in and are more difficult to control. IMHO scrapers produce a smoother finish , with fewer misshapen pieces and can be sharpened and re-shaped as needed easier than gouges. A parting tool is a must , as is a straight cutter at least a 1/2" wide . Most of my lathe tools have long wooden handles that actually ride on the toolrest in most cases eliminating any road rash that needs to be filed out .I can't think of any profiles that can not be turned without gouges.

                                 good luck                        dusty

2. 
   DennisS | Feb 18, 2004 10:36am | #6

   dj-

   In my opinion, which probably is worth what you're paying for it, scrapers are more suited to bowl and hollow vessel turning than they are for spindle work. They cme to the fore when working end grain down at the bottom of a deep narrow bowl. They're lots easier to sharpen than a gouge and perhaps even a skew. But don't be mislead that they aren't prone to catches! I had a bruised chin to prove it a few weeks ago.

   Easy goes it an be sure to keep the bevel rubbing!

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

1. 
   notDusty | Feb 18, 2004 05:49pm | #8

                  Hey Dennis ,

         After really thinking a bit about turning and tools, what may be more important than which type of tool you use is the set up. Have you ever noticed if your tool rest is too high or too low or too far away from the work the cutting is not as smooth. You can feel it when say the toolrest is too high , seems as though it bounces more. When too low I have noticed the tendency too want to dig in more. So along with scraping tools or gouge type tools the proper set up will ultimately help and be safer.

                                           dusty

                      

4. 
   wundernaloud | Feb 18, 2004 11:34am | #7

   I just started turning, thought i never would. the skew is my favorite tool and maybe it was blissful ignorance but it started doing what I wanted it to in a very short period of time. I started with the 1 inch round edged one by sorby but in a short period fo time I got 3/8 3/4 and another 1 inch. the're so versatile and the detail you can get is remarkable. The other tools if you are going to do some hollowing a wide 1-1 3/8 inch 3/8 thick radiused scraper and a 1/2 square end scraper. I started gravitating towards the Henry Taylor selection of tools because they are a little cheaper but good quality. Oh yea and clear the path to your grinder. There is video called the something like The Skew the Dark Side I can get the name and author if your intrested.

5. 
   mike4244 | Feb 18, 2004 06:06pm | #9

   I would buy a reasonably priced set of turning tools to begin with. I bought a set of Great Neck turning tools, then added Sorby tools as I learned to turn. Buy a good book on turning such as Keith Rowlands book Wood turning A Foundation Course.

   This is an excellent book, might pay to read this before buying any tools.

   mike