Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 20, 2004 07:55am | #1

   If you arrange it so the lathe spindle axis and the router spindle axis intersect in a right angle, nearly any bit will do, because the plane of the tip of the bit will be tangent to the surface of the cylinder. I would try a 1/2" straight bit first. A bigger bit might work faster, but might not give you as smooth a finish.

   I would make a sled to hold the router horizontal with the spindle at the same height as the lathe spinde. I would make the sled with a lead screw so I could advance the router in small, regular increments. I would put a smooth, flat MDF table on the lathe bed and affix a low fence parallel with the lathe spindle to guide the sled. I've seen the kind of rig you're describing, with two rails and the router vertical over the lathe axis, but I think the table and horizontal router are a lot easier to build.

   I would expect that fairly fine infeed increments and fairly fast longitudinal feed would give you the best finish. But don't take my word for it.

2. 
   Telemike | Feb 20, 2004 08:37am | #2

   I did this years ago helping a friend make column skins to put over steel columns in his basement. We made a jig that used his router to cut a profile in a glued up blank (8 2x4s). The pattern was 2x the vertical dimension because the bit was 1/2 the distance from the pivot. The pivot slid down a piece of conduit about 8" from the lathe, parallel to the bed. We turned the lathe by hand and advanced the router about 1/4 of the bit diameter each full turn on the lathe. The router followed the 2x pattern at the 1/2 point. It worked well after lots of sanding and filing (as the lathe turned under power.)

   Use a bit that will fit into the smallest cavity you want to make, or form the tightest cavities later with a scarper.

3. 
   notDusty | Feb 20, 2004 08:38am | #3

              Hey Paul ,

      A pal of mine used to make pole furniture . He used a rather long bed lathe with a threaded rod as a screw feed , and used a router with a flat bottom bit , I would guess a mortising bit would work fine.The router advanced on a cradle that advanced by the threaded rod feed. He had a machinery fabricator  build it for him .However for a finely finished piece sanding would still be required. Depending on the volume you need to make , another way would be to use a duplicator just locked in a straight cut mode, then sand.

           I hope this helps somewhat                      dusty

4. 
   10fingers | Feb 20, 2004 08:40am | #4

   Hello Paul,

   Check around for a sears router-crafter.   They handle up to 36" in length I believe.   They surface on ebay from time to time.    The instruction manual is really necessary.  The machine will turn cylinders and other things that are twisted like wrought iron in appearance.  I got mine for $20.00 in a garage sale.