lattice work at 30 degrees

mhanyi | Posted in Joinery on December 29, 2007 02:00am

Greetings,

I am a regular at woodenboat forum, Bob Smalser sent me here to help me get some more opinions.

I’ve grown up an auto mechanic for 10 years, decided to go professional sailing for another 3. As a well paid engineer on classic yachts, which must have made me fall in love classic yachts and the fine joinery that comes with them. After relocating to Finland(from Maryland)I became a field specialist for large paper machinery(BIG)that requires very fine tolerances,this lasted 3 years until I took a break and found myself as a skilled boatbuilder that enjoys fine joinery. I am finally happy with my employer and my new career, I cant wait to get back on the 2nd of January and start the finishing touch on the Whitehall rowboat I am finishing…with plenty of fine details.

so-now the question

I try to keep the boat terms to a minimum as I don’t know my audience.

I will create a grill/grating in the front of the boat, it will consist of a frame sort of v shaped to match the front of the boat, it has four sides

the left and right being exact length and angle-maybe 80cm long
the back is wider then the front but they are parallel,back about 60cm, front about 40cm

inside this frame is a lattice work in the shape of a diamond, the intercept is around 30-35 degrees.

I have decided it is easiest to make the lattice first, and then the frame after as I can get the spacing correct this way.

the lattice will be made of quartersawn pine square stock, probably 20x20mm

I got a few ideas on how to make the cuts,

glue up the stock and use the tablesaw for the cuts, then rip the strips= a hell of a lot of measuring on the table saw and easy to make a mistake

make a miterbox type of jig for the handheld router, stepping one at a time with a woodruff key locking it in the new position.

Somebody please help me figure this out, I got about 3 days to complete the thing.

my shop is fully equipped with SCM machinery and Festool powertools, and my personal handtools which I do know how to use.

mike hanyi
finland

Replies

douglas2cats | Dec 29, 2007 02:33am | #1
The thought of trying to do all that layout, planning, precision cutting, etc. sounded like a nightmare to me when I did the curved lattice shelf on this thread

http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=20211.4

I did something like your 2nd method. The slow part for me was having to clamp backer scraps aournd the cut before each one. Otherwise tearout is pretty much garanteed.

If you build it he will come.
ring | Dec 29, 2007 09:20am | #2
Mike,

Your SCM tablesaw probably wont take a dado blade, which eliminates that as a viable option. Making a dedicated fence for the router is OK; I've done this on several similar situations. My experience is to keep it simple - a long fence with a key that indexes into one of the previous grooves. Just run the router alongside the fence, always going in the same direction. Make the stock a lot bigger than necessary because the glitches are usually at the start or end of the runs. Rip into strips on the TS and then plane them to perfect thickness - again keeping them longer than you really need because of possible snipe in the planer.

I have to admit that I don't like the idea of using pine, but you've probably got pine in Finland that's to die for.

David Ring

http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

mhanyi | Dec 29, 2007 02:06pm | #3
yes the pine is to die for, I just saved a small piece from the fireplace as it was just too fine to burn, just checked-40 rings per inch!last spring i built my dovetailed oak and pine kitchen cabnets, the color is beautiful.I am going to try to build a miter box for the router, might make the stock wider so to have less passes with the router. then rip them to 22 and push them thru the digital planer to 20mm.I will try to keep you people informed on the progress.mike

KeithNewton | Dec 30, 2007 06:28am | #5
Mike, you cut the dados across wider planks before you rip them into strips. Put a dado blade on the TS, use a sled measures off of the centerline. You don't even need to know the angle.Rip the parts off to match the width of the dado, and fit them together. You could do it without a tape-measure.