Replies

1. 
   Moosewood | Mar 21, 2006 04:56pm | #1

   Wish I could help you, I am considering a leather top for a desk which I am now designing and will build shortly.

    

   Rick

2. 
   Yitz | Mar 21, 2006 07:58pm | #2

   It's packed away at the moment, but I have a copy of Taunton's "Desks" from their series of plan books.  One of their designs specifies a leather writing surface and they talk at some length about how to install one.  Didn't seem like rocket science and it's on my mental list of things to try when I get the chance.  Hope this helps a little.

3. 
   joinerswork | Mar 21, 2006 08:29pm | #3

   RW,

   I've done leather tops both ways. Most often, the leather is glued into a shallow recess in the flap, lid, or top.  I cut the leather a little oversize, so there is a 1/2" or so overhang all round.  Traditionally, I've read, flour paste (wallpaper paste) was often used, but I have seen more hide glue residue on old work I've had in the shop.  I have had good luck with titebond on clean surfaces.

   Coat the surface with an even layer of glue, then lay the leather in place, gently smoothing away any wrinkles, working from the center towards the edges.  Take care not to stretch the leather, as it will want to creep back, when you turn your back on it.  I like to follow up with a pass with a warm clothes iron to start to set the glue.  Iron right up to the edges of the recess.  Then take an Exato knife with a new blade, and a straightedge, and trim the excess leather away.  You will be able to push the straightedge into the corner of the recess, and trim right down into the perimeter of the recess.  Take your time, and work smoothly, and with a firm hand, so you don't have to make more than one pass with the blade. You can take the heel of the handle of your knife, or something similar, and run it along the cut edge of the leather to press it down if necessary.

   Wrapping a panel and then dropping it into a frame sized to accept it is perhaps less nerve wracking, but less traditional.  The only tricky part is in folding the leather at the corners and then trimming the corners so there isn't any overlap, and gluing them down. Oh, and sizing the frame so it is a precise drop fit without being too sloppy loose.

   Regards,

   Ray Pine

4. 
   Gretchen | Mar 21, 2006 08:30pm | #4

   I think it could be either way. I have an antique leather top desk that is the wrapped variety--soft leather. I have another antique desk that could have the stamped leather glued on.

   Gretchen
5. 
   rpholland | Mar 22, 2006 04:57am | #5

   Be careful with the type of glue used. A friend had a built-n desk made with a leather work surface. After using a laptop computer the leather started to bubble. I suspect that a contact cement was used which soften from the computer heat. Good luck.

   Rob

1. 
   KeithNewton | Mar 22, 2006 02:57pm | #6

   Rob, you could be right, but I don't think a lap-top produces enough heat to activate the contact. You couldn't hold it in you lap if it was that hot.I have done a few leather tops using contact. It is easy with spray contact. I like to spread the leather out, maybe stretch it with push-pins if it is wrinkled. Spray both parts, and press the substrate down onto it while the glue is still fresh, then turn it over and smooth it down with your hands or a roller, working from the middle out.After it is dry, flip it over and trim it down to the edge of the substrate, or a little over if you want some to tuck in, or crowd the edges.

6. 
   flglide65 | Mar 23, 2006 08:17am | #7

   I built a table with a leather top. The center was birch ply with a step that fit into a rabbit on the perimeter frame. I used liquid hide glue to bond the leather to the ply. Worked fine, used an iron to smooth out the surface after the glue had set up for about 15 minutes.