i have been commissioned to restore the top of an antique table(1899 year built) which was damaged by water. the leather was damaged by a) age, b) wood splitting creating tears in the leather, and c) the leather shrinking and lifting. there was no choice but to remove the old leather. the “wood fixing” part i have no problem with. the leather re-install is new to me. i have to put in new leather approx 72’x 34″, emboss 3 border lines, and emboss a pattern at each corner. the pattern is a no brainer– i will get a stamp made to my sketch. the lines, one approx 1/8 wide, and the other two approx 1/64 wide each, close to each other creating a “double line” effect need to be embossed. i read about using a “roller”. not sure how and where to obtain such a roller. i have also read different (and conflicting) procedures in putting down leather and embossing methods(put leather down, then emboos or emboss then put leather down). also, what about grain direction of leather? what kind of glue ( i suspect that it was put down with animal glue–came off real nice with heat/steam from an iron). read about using contact cement, rubber glue, wallpaper glue, etc. finally, the leather has to have a black colored finish. the old leather was approx 1/64 thick. i also seemed to have some kind of very tiny diamond shaped pattern across the entire top– very minute/discreet, barely visible. my direct email is [email protected] or [email protected]
thnx!!!!
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Leather top
You can order the leather from "Whitechapel" in Jackson Wyoming. They use sheepskin from england and comes in a variety of colors and embossed gold leaf paterns. I have used watered down white glue (hide glue too), very thinly spread with a grout trowel. You will only have one chance to get the leather down correctly, so a few folks at your side will make it easier. Using a wooden roller starting from the center and working twards the outsides will help get rid of the bubbles and lines that are created by the glue. The glue will seep from the edges, so keep a damp rag at arms legnth. If you have a leather shop (boot or saddle) they will have scraps of thin leather that will be worth testing your methods. The glue will dry very hard for a durable surface.
[email protected]
Good luck!
Tutorial link
You may find this link helpful: http://www.antiquerestorers.com/LEATHERinstall.htm
It answers several of your questions. Since the leather's position will need to be manipulated after it is laid down, contact cement would not be the friendliest adhesive to use.
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