Speaking of glue…
Has anybody tried out Lee Valley’s “Cabinetmaker’s Glue?” (They named it “2002 GF” or something – weird – maybe the marketing dept. was off that day…)
I’ve used titebond for years (and gorilla glue for minutes!) but wanted to try the Lee Valley stuff because it has a longer open time than titebond but a similar clamp time. Anyway, I like it a lot, been able to use the L.V. where I would have had to use titebond extend before.
Every time I’ve tested scrap glue-ups they’ve fractured cohesively (in the wood, not the glue joint) as they should, but of course I don’t know how it will do over the years. Anybody have any experience with this stuff?
Thanks,
-Lou
Replies
Personally I don't know if glue technology really matters all that much when it comes to PVA glues. I use mainly elmers white glue and it works great. Long open time, joints are stronger than the wood, and you can buy it darn near anywhere at reasonable prices. What's not to like?
Tom
Douglasville, GA
Lou,
I Have used this glue for most of my work, including a rocking horse that survived 8 years of heavy use by my 2 kids, and our bed. It is a good product (like most of Lee Valey merchandise). I suspect most PVA glues use pretty much the same base polymer , (copolymer of poly(vinyl acetate-vinyl alcohol made by Air Products), but vary in concentration and additives.
Sincerely
Gil
good review on types of glue in fww mag. this month i believe
Thomas B. Palumbo
CUSTOM WOODWORKING
Hello, Lou,
" ...Lee Valley's "Cabinetmaker's Glue?" (They named it "2002 GF" or something - weird - maybe the marketing dept. was off that day...) "
As stated in the LV catalog,
" ... with superior gap-filling characteristics due to its high solids content (45%). "
So, from that I would assume that "GF" stands for gap-filling, which is what they say it does.
I felt as you did about Gorilla glue, but I really like the way that it cleans up after. No mess! I have been making small boxes of late and small items give folks a chance to really scrutinize my work up close. So, because of this I have used Gorilla glue because the excess does not penetrate back into the wood as would Titebond, which is what I normally use. We both know that if glue penetrates any other area than the joint, then our final finish will be blotched.
I have not used 2002 GF as I try to keep my joints as tight as possible. However, I have used LV's "Chair Doctor" glue and it works as stated: it definitely does fix wobbly chair joints. This particular glue fills gaps as well, but in a different way: it swells the rung, for example, so that it matches the joint very tightly. Because this glue is of a very low viscosity, it penetrates the rung causing it to swell, and then dries in this condition. Very good glue for that purpose.
I have always wondered how Chair Doctor glue would work in dovetail joints especially since it uses a syringe to disperse the glue which would really prevent any over-run.
Regards,
Phillip
There was just a thread here at KNots either last week or the week before on the Lee Valley glue. You might want to do a quick search.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Egad, Forestgirl, foiled by Prospero again! I actually did do a search - tried "lee valley" + glue and got no hits. Sorry, I hate clogging the bandwidth with stuff that's already been said.
-Lou
Hi Lou. Mystery solved -- as usual it was "garbage in, garbage out" -- the author typed Lee ValleyPVA glue which foiled our search attempts. I found it by searching for "Lee glue."
So, anyhooooo, here it is:http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=21677.1
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thanks indeed, Forestgirl, great link. Also thanks to everyone else who responded - glad to see that no one hates the stuff, and it seems pretty popular among this small sample of pva users on the 2 threads. Thus reassured, I will carry on!
Lou,
I use the stuff exclusively for furniture and indoor products. I only use the Gorilla or Excel for projects exposed to the elements (outside) or exotics. The high solids content seems to keep the glue from "soaking in" to the wood and botching your finish. The glue really excels in vacuum veneering, the high solids keep it from bleeding through on the face of the veneer. I have used it for 8 or 10 years and have never had a problem. By the way, Garret Wade makes the same product, that is where I first started buying it.
Birdseyeman
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