Replies

1. 
   GRW | May 01, 2005 06:04pm | #1

   Will,

   It's my understanding that with the fence on the right of the blade, and the blade tilted to the right, wood can be trapped between the fence and the blade. This can cause kick-backs.  I've never used a right tilt, so I don't know 1st hand.

2. 
   forestgirl | May 01, 2005 08:03pm | #2

   Yep, you don't want to be pushing on the tilted side of the blade or have that piece caught between the downside of the blade and the fence.  Super-dangerous, not just because the blade is tilting toward your hand, but also because you're issueing an engraved invitation for kickback.

   You need to move your fence to the left side of the blade to the fence is angled away from the the fence.  [This is why I keep my fence parallel to the blade rather than toed out.]  Hope you use a splitter!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   BG | May 02, 2005 12:21am | #3

   Will,
   Personally, I've always been skeptical of the hype around the left tilt TS....claiming its safer if you have 'reaction wood' while making a beveled cut. Wouldn't the reaction wood go into the blade even if it were left tilt?...the wood would not be trapped as in a right tilt..but still it would fly..
   I don't like the blade tilting toward my hand so I move the fense to the left of the blade. More often than not however, I use my tennon jig to cut bevels on panels and the like...

    

4. 
   woodensplinter | May 02, 2005 12:51am | #4

   The debate over right and left tilt has been on-going for quite some time.  In the final analysis, it all depends on what you do.  The proponents of left tilt claim it is safer when ripping bevels on longer pieces of wood.  In that case, I'd have to agree.  On the other hand, when cross cutting, I always use the left hand miter groove because my miter gauge is set up for that.  In this case, the blade points toward my hand, not away.  Either way, you have to learn to work with what you have.  Myself, I prefer the right tilt and have never felt constrained by it.  In fact, for the way I work, I find it safer and would purchase another if the need arose.  If I'd learned on a left tilt, I might have preferred that.  In any case, learn to use what you have and make sure you're never pinching any cut-off between the blade and the fence.  As far as worrying about cutting yourself:  I'd have to say either you're technique is wrong or are using the incorrect tool if your  fingers are that close.

5. 
   mudman | May 02, 2005 06:36am | #5

   I agree with wooden splinter. To that I would add that on a RT you can switch to a dado blade and still use the cursor. For me that is ver importaint as I do a lot of case work.

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
6. 
   DonC | May 02, 2005 06:56am | #6

   I prefer right tilt because when you rip miters in plywood, you are referencing from the outside of the joint. Thickness differences in plywood don't matter because the mismatch is not seen on the inside. Referencing from the inside (left tilt) will show on the assembled joint.

   I also prefer right tilt because I have an auxillary fence that has a 1/4" 45 degree cut at the apex of the fence and table saw surface. This small chamfer allows the SECOND cut to be made with more accuracy because the FACE of the FIRST rip cut slides on the chamfer. Left tilt requires the sharp fuzzy point of the bevel to be place against the fence when making the second cut.

   Finally, I have never experienced kickback with any right tilt saw because I only cut fully dimensioned stock that is free of defects. If any stock is case hardened, the rifing knife prevents hazards.

   Don

   Don

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/2/2005 12:02 am ET by DONC4

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 03, 2005 06:39pm | #7

   My Ridgid tips to the left.. I never had a 'TRUE' cabinet saw so just curious.

   Most? saws have a miter slot on either side of the blade so you just move it to the other slot.. 

   My ridgid has a much shorter scale on the Left side of the blade but is OK for most things if I move my miter to the other slot..

   Somehow I'm still not getting it..  I must be gettin' older that I thought...  LOL

2. 
   WillGeorge | May 03, 2005 06:45pm | #8

   Don  No fight here..  REALLY Just wondering..

   I prefer right tilt because when you rip miters in plywood, you are referencing from the outside of the joint. Thickness differences in plywood don't matter because the mismatch is not seen on the inside. Referencing from the inside (left tilt) will show on the assembled joint.

   If you table is flat, fence and miter set up correctlyto the blade.. What difference would tip of the blade right or left make?

   I'm missing something here?

1. 
   jackplane | May 03, 2005 07:03pm | #9

   I agree with BG. Lotta hype on this issue. Saw tilt, left or right, is as safe as it feels to you, and as safe as you make it. That said, I prefer left tilt. 

2. 
   DonC | May 03, 2005 07:04pm | #10

   Hi Will,

   Plywood is seldom the same thickness from sheet to sheet. Even from the same supplier. Let's say one is exactly 3/4" and another is 23/32". When you rip plywood with a right tilt blade, the visible assembled corners will be tight and correct because you are rreferencing from the outside or tip of the cut miter. With a left tilt blade, you are referencing from the inside of the miter. When you assemble the plywood you will see a 1/32 mismatch or overlap at the visible corner. With today's veneers so thin if you sand the overhang off, you will see 1/32" of ligher core material showing.

   It is for this same reason some biscuit cutters have fences that reference from the outside of the joint. Porter Cable has a outside referencing fence  and Lamello gives you both options. Most biscuit cutters however reference from the inside. This is fine as long as material thickness is identical.

   Don

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 03, 2005 07:40pm | #11

   Thanks! I think I understood that.. I'll get some different thickness ply and try it.. Now where do I get a saw that tips the other way to test it?

   .. Just funnin' ya.. I think I got your explanation...