I had a Grizzly table saw that roared like a lion and had some other quality problems. It had a right tilt arbor. My son in law inherited it.
Since I had made a vertical panel beveling jig that ran on the fence it didn’t make much difference to me if the blade tilted to the left or right. However, since I’m right-handed, when I made bevel cuts of horizontal flat stock using a push stick and a featherboard I usually had to look over the fence to control the feed with my right hand.
I found this position to be uncomfortable and dangerous. I sometimes stood to the right of the blade and the fence and used my left hand to push the stock, but didn’t have the same degree of control as when I used my right hand.
I now have a Powermatic PM2000 with left tilt and find that I can make horizontal stock bevel cuts with much more ease and safety. The visibility and control are much better. I’m glad I made the change.
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Replies
How do you like your PM2000?
I'm considering buying one soon.
Probably my best tool. Here's a review I posted on Amazon.comI've had mine for three months and it works very well for me. The heavy weight contributes to the relative silence of the running blade. My old saw, a Grizzly, roared like a lion!
The riving knife keeps the wood stock straight and really helps avoid kickback. I removed the blade quard because it interferes with close observation of the cutting process which I believe is essential for safety. The unit can be set up and adjusted in less than an hour. The cowel beneath the blade allows for removal of all but a few specks of sawdust that are easily vacuumed from the highly accessable cabinet. I especially appreciate the arbor lock mechanism for changing blades; a real time (and hand) saver. Adjustment of the riving knife could be improved. It's hard to reach the riving knife release mechanism and even harder to adjust the set screws that align the knife. I finally got it right after a number of attempts. The easy sliding fence is remarkably accurate and easy to adjust.
The only real complaint is the fact that the legs on my cast iron case were not ground properly to allow the table to sit perfectly flat on my perfectly flat floor. I had to place a wood shim of about 1/8th inch under one leg.
Despite a few drawbacks I'd buy this tablesaw all over again.
Did you ever try to fix the Grizzly saw?
I had to replace the bearings and that helped the noise a bit, but it was a real pain to do it. I had to rely on a friend's bearing compression tool to squeeze the new bearings on the shaft. Grizzly's people were very helpful and the new bearings were fairly cheap.
You must not like your son-in-law very much. LOL
I think he'll use it as an anvil. :)
Could you please describe how your PM2000 was delivered.. and how complicated the set up was?
My TS, for example, came in three boxes. The tables were in one.. the motor/trunnion in another.. and the fence in a third. Assembly was a bear. Especially working alone as I had to do it.
Thanks,
Bill
Bill
I didn't know you were a woodworker--good to know. You ought to check out the PM2000 alongside the Saw Stop at Woodcraft. I'd buy the Saw Stop if I could afford it. Solid machine. They have them set up in the store. Tom in Humble"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
I got one from Amazon and it arrived in just three packages. Fortunately I had watched the Fine Woodworking video on this website that showed how to set up a new tablesaw. The demonstration tablesaw was the PM2000!. There are some hints on this video that saved me a lot of time and frustration. The saw and cabinent comes in a big box on a pallet. The delivery guy wheeled in into my garage and then into my shop on a pallet dolly. The only real problem is getting it off the pallet. I cranked down the wheels, built a low angle ramp out of wood stock and some plywood, got a neighbor to help me roll it down the ramp and keep it from rolling too fast. Once it was on the floor, I retracted the wheels and it has been in that position since. The only flaw was one of the cast iron legs was milled about 1/9 inch too short so I put a small wood shim below it to balance the table. It probably took about an hour to set up after I rolled it off the pallet. Maybe a little longer if I included the time it took to adjust the riving knife.
Here's the URL for setting up a new saw.http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=25283Regards,
I got my PM66 some years ago. I was stymied because the manual just wasn't complete and there just wasn't enough bolts and screws to put it together. Wasn't sure what I needed. Tool Crib wasn't much help. Finally called the factory in Tennessee and they sent a parts kit - bolts and screws. Finished assembling and it wasn't for two to three years when I was looking for something to hold plastic pipe to cut it into lengths that I used the square pipe in front of the saw. It worked fine for holding the plastic pipe but also yielded the parts kit that was initially needed to finish assembling the saw.
That's funny. Reminds me of the first turkey my wife and I ever cooked. We were looking for the neck and giblets to make giblet gravy but our bird didn't have one.. or so we thought.
We located all the parts wrapped in paper AFTER the bird was cooked and we were sitting down to dinner.
Bill
Thanks very much. What a terrific bonus to have the set up video. It makes me much more comfortable about ordering the saw.
Now to get 220v into my garage/shop.
Bill
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