Leg shaping question for Single Board Side Table
In Mike Pekovitch’s design, not only is the inside of the leg gently curved, but the outside faces have 1/16″ of stock removed. Why? Is this just to make the leg a tad more slender? If it is significant, would it be easier to make it the first band saw cut and use the fence rather than to follow the straight line freehand?
I’m learning a lot from this project. The videos are a great help.
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I’m not going to be of much help here. I too had the same question about the 1/16” in the prints. Couldn’t figure out the “why” either. So, honestly I ignored it. If the intent is purely visual, well, my eye isn’t catching it.
Thanks. I wonder if an earlier iteration of the design had a very slight curve on that face. In fact, I think in the videos Mike talks about using a block plane on an inside curve of the leg. This doesn't seem to exist in the plans.
Yes there are inconsistencies. If you're shaping the legs, it may be too late, but note he used just a single blind dovetail on the front top stretcher, not the double that is in the prints. I didn't catch that difference, wished I had. Not a big issue but it's "small" work if you use two.
I haven't built this but looked at the video of the leg shaping and the pdf of the plans out of curiosity. I agree with user-6603230 that the video of the leg process talks of an inside curve on that outer leg surface, which suggests that that version of the table had legs that flared outward on both the inner and outer surfaces. The plans do not show that detail but rather a straight profile on the outer surfaces. It would not make great sense to mill the legs and then re-cut the outer surface another 16th of an inch, so it is a head-scratcher as to how that got into the plans. But if leg blanks are already made and look too fat without removal of that wood, cutting that 1/16th of waste off with a fence would be a good way rather than following a line freehand, and safer for not wandering over the line. The band-sawn surface will need to be faired with a block plane either way.
Thanks MLindy. I haven't shaped the legs yet, hopefully starting today. I won't try to cut the 1/16 from the flat face, just take a few swipes with my plane before cutting the curved face. This part looks straight forward, and I like Mike's advice to get one curved face fair before cutting the adjacent one. The next operation, to shape that curve along the leg corners that abut the aprons looks to be tricky. My spoke shave skills aren't great... I better get some practice in.
And thanks for the tip, Curmudgeon. I did notice the single dovetail and built it that way. Even with one, it was pretty small.
I think making that outer faces curve slightly outward would look nice, subtly augmenting the curve on the inner faces (e.g. start at 1/16th in from the edge at the top to at the edge on the bottom). Good luck with whatever you choose; looks like a fun project.
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