Replies

1. 
   artw | Feb 09, 2003 05:27pm | #1

   I would use 2 x 2 legs and taper to 1-1/4 square. I think legs this long will be wobbly. either way I would not go smaller then 1 x 1 at the small end of the taper.

   Ken

2. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 09, 2003 07:30pm | #2

   How small is small? In other words, how far apart will the legs be? Are you planning on stretchers between the legs?

   Leg strength is simply not an issue in a small table. According to Bruce Hoadley's book, any wood you're likely to be using for a table will have a compressive strength greater than 3000 PSI.

   Leg stiffness shouldn't be an issue either, unless you plan on parking your SUV on it, or moving it across the floor with 5 or 6 guys my size sitting on it.

   I agree with Ken that it may be wobbly, but that's not because of the legs flexing, it's because the short distance front to back makes it very sensitive to unevenness in the floor or in the length of the legs.

   As tall as you're building it, a very narrow foot might look exaggerated. I don't think 1.5" down to 1" would look outlandish, or 1.25" down to .75". I see pictures of lots of Federal style tables with very narrow legs, 3/4" square and smaller at the foot. Have you tried some full scale drawings.

1. 
   Scarecrow | Feb 09, 2003 08:40pm | #3

   The table top will be between 18" and 20" on a side.  No stretcher.  Maybe a 2-1/2" M&T apron.  "in the land of the blind the one-eyed man is king..."

3. 
   jgaiennie | Feb 10, 2003 06:51am | #4

   Scarecrow,

   There's no rule.

   What you'll want with this slender leg is a leg with straight grain characteristics that won't have a weak point in it if it is dragged or similar side load is placed on it.  Also consider potential wood movement.  I've seen cantilevered legs move substantially in the first year of a tables life.

   As for asthetics, I suggest you do what you think looks good.  But I suggest that you study what you think looks good first.  You're starting pretty slender at the top.  To me a little difference in a taper makes a lot of difference.  If you taper from 1 1/2" to 1 1/8" or 1" I think there will be a very noticable difference.  Do some drawings, or mockups in plywood, or even cut a full size mock up in a disposable wood.  Prop it all up in the corner of your shop, sit down and have a look.  Experiment.  Cut the legs a bit different.  Set it up again.  Which looks better?   ... - Anyway, that's how I do it.

   I also disagree with the minimum size.  I think you can go down to 3/4" or maybe even 5/8" (maybe smaller) if you choose.  I'm not suggesting that I would, but IMO, you can.  I posted a pic of a table with 7/8" to 13/16" square tips on the legs.  Further, the legs have a bending load on them due the curve.  Your's will be straight tapers, won't they?  Pics aren't that good, but it's at this link:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=10190.1

   good luck.

   jdg

   
   

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   Edited 2/9/2003 11:00:21 PM ET by jdg

1. 
   Scarecrow | Feb 10, 2003 05:08pm | #5

   Thanks for all of the input.  I have a piece or two lying around that I will taper to see how it looks.

   Again..Thanks"in the land of the blind the one-eyed man is king..."

1. 
   kjbmgb | Feb 10, 2003 06:46pm | #6

   Scarecrow,

   Another solution is to partially taper the back legs, to make them look lighter but without reducing strength. Email me at [email protected] and I will send you a photo of a table I built with cabriole legs in the front and partially tapered legs in the back.

   kjbmgb

2. 
   MikeIke | Feb 10, 2003 07:03pm | #7

   Even before you cut anything, I am a big fan of drawing stuff, either to scale or full size.  Good luck!

   Ike

4. 
   NickC | Feb 11, 2003 10:16am | #8

   One of the examples in Moser's "Measured Shop Drawings" is a Shaker-style sidestand, which is a small table with one drawer. This table is 18 inches square, has a 3-1/2 inch apron (needed for the drawer), and legs that taper from 1-1/8 to 3/4. Looks real nice. The sidestand is about 27 inches tall. Now, my personal feeling is that for a table of similar length and width, but a foot taller, would be better with straight legs. Nick

5. 
   DestinDave | Feb 11, 2003 04:39pm | #9

   I noticed nobody mentioned the grain orientation issue with tapir legs. My first run of tapir legs brought this point home dramatically with the result that I had edge grain on two sides (which looked nice) and flat cut grain (parallel to growth rings) one the other. This gives the legs a really peculiar appearance that I thought most unsatisfactory. To solve this problem, I glued up four pieces of quarter saw so that I have edge grain on all sides.