Replies

1. 
   Tao | Feb 17, 2005 02:45am | #1

   You can easily taper them with a plane, or you could use a jointer.

   With a plane, you just draw a line where you want the final contour and plane down to it.  Simple and fast.  Usually only two sides are tapered, so layout is easy.

   With a jointer, I set a cut of about 1/16", then place the spot on the leg where I want the taper to begin over the cutter, with the bottom end on the infeed table.  As you feed the leg, you will take a thin wedge off.  Repeat the process intil you have the taper you desire.  Watch your hand placement so that you don't end up jointing your fingers in case of a snatch.  It's not likeky, but odd angles and such sometimes end up with the wood not held securely, and snatches do occur -- usually when you are distracted........

   Michael R

1. 
   knotdoneyet | Feb 17, 2005 08:41pm | #3

   Will give the jointer a try - am not confident with the handsaw - only concern with the jointer is the very start of the cut curves into the wood and I want a straight line - am thinking I should stay a 16th shy of the line - and start each pass a bit lower on the leg.  Then sand up to the line on the belt sander.... Open to any better ideas though....

1. 
   Tao | Feb 17, 2005 10:51pm | #5

   only concern with the jointer is the very start of the cut curves into the wood

   You'll be starting with zero cut at the top of the taper so there's no worry there.

   Martin's suggestions are good.

   Michael R

   Edited 2/17/2005 3:02 pm ET by Woodwiz

1. 
   knotdoneyet | Feb 19, 2005 01:29am | #6

   Did not explain well... the taper starts about an inch down the leg - gives me a staight surface to mortise into. So I will have to drop the leg on the jointer at the right spot on all sides, and was concerned that if I continue to drop the leg on the same spot that the blades will cut in to the leg with a bit of a curve, and I wanted to avoid that.  I guess if I set it really shallow it should not dig into the leg too far.

   Thanks for all the advise.

1. 
   Tao | Feb 19, 2005 02:35am | #7

   and was concerned that if I continue to drop the leg on the same spot that the blades will cut in to the leg with a bit of a curve,

   Won't happen.  You could set up a low stop on the infeed table to make sure you start in the same place, but I understood your objection the first time, and my answer still holds.  Try it and you'll see.

   For myself, I'd rough it in with a handsaw (or a band saw)  and finish up with a plane.  For me it's easierand quicker, and a littl less risky.  But I have done tapers with a jointer, too, upon occasion.  Works OK.

   Be careful where you put your hands, and if it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't.

   Michael R

   Edited 2/18/2005 6:47 pm ET by Woodwiz

2. 
   douglas2cats | Feb 17, 2005 03:45am | #2

   If you go ahead and cut the taper on the TS, you can then use the kerf as a guide for a handsaw to cut the rest of the way through. As long as you keep the handsaw blade registered against the side of the kerf you can probably avoid having to make up a jig. Then you can do a cleanup pass or 2 on the jointer.

    

   If you build it - he will come.

3. 
   martinT | Feb 17, 2005 08:44pm | #4

   Mel,

   I've done this kind of thing on a jointer before.  You have to put even pressure on the legs, and count each pass so you do the same on each side.  Also, you have to be careful to start the passes in the same location on each side, or you'll end up with weird looking legs.  An idea would be to practive on a scrap leg to get used to it.

    

   Good Luck.