I have been looking to the the D4R and thought I had found a deal! The thing is the same price no matter where you buy it. I thought I would get it through woodcraft with a birthday discount (10%) coupon. Only one problem, I have already used mine in Jan. Then I had an eureka moment. I registered my wife, and would use her coupon. Did all that and then found out, it does not include power tools and the D4R. ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!. Oh well, It looks like I going to have to just cough up the dough.
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Replies
All my Rockler coupons, too, said "not for use on power tools or Leigh jigs."
I like a bargain as well as anyone, and still paid full $$ for my D4R.
Picked up a D4R for a friend at AWFS show in Vegas last summer and the show special was full tilt boogie retail. Looks like the Legacy Mill is the same way, aint no deal nowhere. Thought I had one on e-bay last weekend but got blown out of the water in the last 10 seconds of the auction by two other bidders that wanted it way worse than I did.
I know what you mean about E-bay. I was watching a couple of D4's and the price was already close to new. A lot of people don't think to look at the shipping. One had a 35 ship charge and the other had something similar. I think the one I was looking at went for about 360 or 370 when all said and done, and it did not have all the parts. For another 60 I can get new. I thing Rockler and woodcraft have it for 419. I'm just going to bite the bullet and pay reatail!
I troll eBay a lot, but my rule of thumb is - I will not pay more than 75% (including shipping and insurance) of what I can buy it for locally. I have been good at getting things for that or better, but it has sometimes taken months to get them. I only use that for things I WANT but do not need immediately.
I do this for gifts, tools, electronics, cookware and books mostly.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
I have a D4R? 24 inch? Whatever.. I like it for wide boards (as in Hardwood ply) I rarely use it BUT I do come in Handy when I'm in a hurry and want a nice joint..
I do mostly hand cut dovetails BUT... the D4R sure looks better en' mine!
Well, Looks machine made BUT.. better en' mine!
I do mostly handcut dovetails too. It saves on the setup time and YOU control the layout.But - mine sure don't look as good as template cut. I just finished a job in Red Oak and decided to try cutting a relief before chopping the base line. First used a trin router with an upcut spiral bit. Hang on tight! That sucker wants to get away from you if you're not VERY careful. After two screwups I switched to cutting out with a Forstner bit. Much better and safer. The 'chopping' went much faster.What do you do?Jerry
What do I do?
I use a coping saw.. Just me.. Well, for hand cuts before my chisels.
With the Leigh I let the router do ALL the work.. I'd NEVER admit to it BUT I have had to purchase some new guide fingers.. LOL..Router bit make short work of them.. Geeee....
If I have a lot of dovetails to cut I use a jig: When I went to buy one, the Woodcraft store recoomended the Incra sytem. It works OK but set-up takes time. On this job, one of the pieces was 60" long. Tough to hold that steady in a vertical position, so I went hand-cut. Sawdust and epoxy fills the gaps but I'm not proud of the job.Jerry
I hate the cost and like you, will probably use it rarely. This is for something special, so I'm going to spend the money. I will be learning the hand cut process, but starting from scratch, I would not have time to get it down, and do a quality Job. We shall see. Thanks for the reply.
Bones: I have an older Leigh, Model D-1258-12, manual and tools, no bits, asking $150. Any interest?
Is that a 12" model, if so, sorry. I'm wanting a 24" to do a blanket chest need the wide range. Let me know if it's a 24"
Sorry, it's a 12".
Two Jay
Thanks for the offer anyway. I liked the price.
Twojay,
re: your 12" Leigh - how old? Condition? Accessories?, Bits? Pictures?
RennieRegard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
Rennie: My Leigh is Model D-1258-12. This may be one of the early models and is old but in good condition if not very good. I have no bits but I do have the manual, spacers and tools. Also the FWW dovetail jig comparison, September-October 1989. I have several photos of it and if you give me your e-mail address I'll send them to you. My e-mail is: [email protected].
Happy Ending!!!!!!!!!! I called and spoke with CS at woodcraft and told them about the counter person saying that the 10%cupon not working with the D4. She asked if it was a power tool and could I plug it in. I told her it was a jig. She said it should work for that. I called the 800 order line, (I was going to buy it anyway) and they took the order and gave me the 10%. Now hopefully I can learn to use it.
I feel good because I just saved 10% on a really nice plane at LN (show discount), but I paid full retail for my D4R.
Your shopping kung fu is greater than mine.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
I win this time Grass Hopper! (rare event though)
bones,
When I first started this hobby I bought a cheapo dovetail jig from WWarehouse ($39). Eventually I got things to work on some scrap stock but was affraid to use it on good stuff. I then decided to learn how to cut them by hand reading "The Complete Dovetail" by Ian Kirby. After reading and understanding the process steps to cut them by hand, using the jig became a piece of cake...
Edited 5/7/2006 2:49 pm ET by BG
I have seen that book at B&N and plan on getting it. I just don't have the time to master the hand cut dovetail and still get the project done in time (wedding). I still plan on learning the process, but just not now. Thanks for the suggestion
bones,
I wasn't suggesting Ian's book so you could hand cut dovetails but rather to help understand setting up and operating the Leigh. For instance, assuming you'll make half blind dovetails on the drawer front, then the depth of cut on the pin side needs to be equal to the thickness of the side panel....ergo, the cutter bit needs to be the right size relative to the side panel. However, some will put a rabbit on the tail end (inside) of the panel to help with the fit. To avoid confusion, marking the face side of the stock, initially(start of process) helps down the line. Please excuse me if I'm teeling you stuff you already know.
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