Replies

1. 
   Justaccord | Mar 10, 2006 04:59am | #1

   BUMP

2. 
   BOBABEUI | Mar 10, 2006 04:22pm | #2

   Dave,

   I own a FMT, got to say that I never gave any thought to attempting to use it for a sliding dovetail. Not too sure that I ever even saw it referenced in the manual (not that means it couldn't be done). I know Leigh markets that the D4R dovetail can turn out sliding dovetails.

   I built this Pat Warner sliding dovetail jig http://www.patwarner.com/dovetail_tenoner.html that preceeded the FMT purchase, and quite frankly it works so good maybe that's why I never considered the FMT cutting sliding dovetails.

   Best of luck 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/10/2006 8:23 am ET by BOBABEUI

3. 
   Jfrostjr | Mar 10, 2006 04:55pm | #3

   I recently completed a bookcase with stopped, TAPERED, sliding dovetails. In the past I had to beat a straight dovetail to get it home. The taper makes all the difference in the world and is easy to do. I think I found the process in "Joinery" the Taunton book by Gary Rogowski.

   Jerry

1. 
   tangomike | Mar 12, 2006 05:08am | #4

   Jerry,
   Do you have any pics of that piece, I'd be really interested in seeing it. Thx.

1. 
   gb93433 | Mar 12, 2006 05:11am | #5

   I have always used a router table with a high enough fence for producing sliding dovetails.

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Mar 20, 2006 04:29pm | #6

   I think I have the process down now. Attaching photos from an Apple computer is different. If it's not too late, I'll send photos of the simple jig I made for routing the taper.Jerry

   
1. 
   Justaccord | Mar 20, 2006 05:06pm | #7

   It's not too late. Please send photos of the jig. Beautiful work, by the way.Dave

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Mar 21, 2006 05:40pm | #9

   Here are pics of the stopped, sliding dovetail jig. 1899.jpg is the jig alone - If you can read the "A", this is the entry side of the jig. At this end the router base plate guides are 1/16" wider than at the "B" end, thus the groove taper. The router is guided tight to the boards on each side. I used a 1/2" dovetail bit to cut a 3/4" groove. The "C" crosspiece at the top is positioned to "stop" the groove before it exits the front of the front, which would destroy the clean line of the bookshelf "vertical".1900.jpg shows the jig clamped over a sample workpiece.1897.jpg shows the male portion of the dovetail in position for machining. (This is a mockup as my router table was otherwise occupied.) Notice the 2 pieces of veneer used at the BACK side of the shelf. This makes the dovetail wider at the back to match the wider slot created by the jig.Any questions - get back to me.JerryP.S. Please notice that the jig is made of the highest qua;ity materials, top flight joinery and finished with 6 coats of laquer.

   
2. 
   tangomike | Mar 20, 2006 05:33pm | #8

   Beautiful. My email is [email protected].tm