Does anyone have any first hand information on the Leigh super jig’s? I would be interested in either the 18″ or the 24″ jig. I know it doesn’t handle the board thickness that the D4R does and that the pin size is fixed although there is a way to work around that (albeit its time consuming). What are the pro’s and con’s with the super vs. the D4R other than those two differences.
thanks.
Replies
DDay,
I think we read the same review of the tool last night!
I too have the same question. While the price point is more
attractive on the new jig - are the cost savings worth the long
term limitations??
Bill-
Check out the Fine Woodworking DVD "Dovetail a Drawer with Frank Klausz." It may change your life. Here is a guy who figures 20 minutes per drawer when he bids jobs. On the DVD, while you watch, he gets it done in about 45 min while narrating every step. It's an inspiration. And except for the ripping and crosscutting, it's a lot quieter than a router jig.
Here is a link to a pdf that explains the features side by side. It could help some. I cant speak to the superjig, but I love the d4r. I had never cut a DT prior to the jig, and after watching the video and one test box which was the box to mount it on, I made my first 12"box for a cedar chest and it was perfect.
http://www.leighjigs.com/download/Comparison%20Chart-1.pdf
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Spend the extra money for the 24. I bought CMT bits for the jig. Go online and see it work. Handcut doves are for the birds and are a total waste of time. The Leigh makes the hand cut dovetail obsolete and the only ones who still do them are believers of the crapola in magazines about how holy it is to make them by hand. Balderdash!!
"Handcut doves are for the birds and are a total waste of time. "
Oooooo. Let the games begin .....................
I bought one just before the price increase in Jan. and didn't know about the thickness issue and returned it for a D4R but I could have lived with it doing large case work using a halfbind dovetail..
Lonnie Byrd uses 1/2 blinds on his case work I just wanted the TD for blanket chests..
Other than the thickness issue threre is not much difference and has one postive that it does sigle pass 1/2 blinds where the D4R dosent
-rarebear-
http://www.rexmill.com My Hand Plane Resource
I have a D4R .. Same question.. What if I want to do something longer/wider?? All Leigh's stuff is quality.. It just depends on what you want to spend and your USUAL work.. I'd base it on that!
I just purchased a Leigh Super 18". The jig comes with the 1/2-14* dovetail bit and wanted to know if I can make smaller joints using the same setup and obviously using a smaller bit?
By the way I just started with the jig and am so far pleased. My first joints, by the book, came out suprisingly well. I was avoiding dovetails due to time issues but that has surely changed and look forward to some projects I've been putting off!
John
Any other things to add about the super 18"? I'm a hobbyist so I think the D4R might be more than is necessary. I one main difference is the extra thickness capability and that isn't something I would use.Did you get the support and vac piece, if so how well does that work.Thanks.
i got a super 12 at xmas and have built lots of drawer boxes with it for kitchen cabinets and furniture, it is my first DT jig and im very pleased with the results
price was a factor and the super 12 at less than 200 bucks was well worth the cost
ok some flexibility is lost between it and the d4 im sure, but its fun to play with too as shown here` note that the legs are both tapered and splayed!!
Edited 3/14/2008 5:00 pm ET by steve
I felt the same way, I'm a hobbyist too and the D4 seemed overkill as well. I did not get the accessory kit so no info on that. It would probably be nice to have, you do have to be careful from keeping the router from rocking/tipping, just keep it in mind while your working and the situation is controlable. As far as the vac hookup, routing is messy and that would probably be nice too depending on how well it works? If it's in your budget I'm sure not a bad way to go. I spent my budget on the 18 vs the 12 figuring if I really need/want the kit I could get it down the road.
Other than that I really like what I have seen so far. Make sure to make the test cuts to get it set up and your routing dovetails in no time. Kind of funny but the very first joints I made were actually tighter than the second? The adjustments are easy and well explained in the book to get you where you need to be. In brief, I think it's great tool and look forward to using it again this afternoon! Hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks.I was in woodcraft yesterday and they have both the D4R and the 18" super set up. I definitely see the few areas where they changed the design/material to get the price lower on the 18" but to me its a non issue. The only downside with the super is the lesser thickness and the set size with the pins (although I think there is a way around that on their website albeit it is time consuming with many steps). But then on the opposite side, as several mentioned you can do have blinds in one pass on the super and not on the D4R. I want to do a jewelry chest, like a little highboy and do all the joinery and draws in dovetails, so later this summer when I do that I think I'll get the super 18", unless I see a deal on one before hand. I think I'll just get the vac set up with it, I think you get a little discount and I know I'll want that as an accessory at some point anyway. I have a festool vac and LOVE not breathing the dust when sanding, using the plunge saw, etc. My work space is limited too, so the router can make a heck of a mess in minutes.Thanks for the info. If anything else comes up in either pro's, con's or other comments on the jig, post away.
Thank you to everyone else too.
About 20 years ago I bought a Craftsman 16" HB jigs for about $70 (which was a lot in those days). Spreading that $70 over those 20 years means the cost was $3.50 per year. That's a cheap price to pay to get a dovetail jig.
Today, at $500, the DR4 spread over 20 years would be... $25. Can you afford that ?
Edited 3/15/2008 1:03 pm ET by bricofleur
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