Replies

1. 
   RW | Apr 11, 2006 06:19am | #1

   Most manuals will say not more than 2x the bed length. Doing so tends to be hit and miss. If you're almost straight to begin with, you could pull it off, by which I mean just be lucky. But a wavy edge, if you tried it, better to straight line it on a saw first. In practice, 2x seems to be a reasonable limit.

   "Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton

2. 
   hammer1 | Apr 11, 2006 06:50am | #2

   Jointers don't have to be limited in the length of stock they can handle. It's fairly easy to make some infeed and outfeed extension tables to add to any jointer. They need to line up precisely and be flat but they sure make a small jointer much easier to use.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   skycowboypaul | Apr 14, 2006 12:19am | #6

   hammer1....sweet, very sweet.  I have been wanting to do that since I bought my DJ 20 in 1990.  The infeed table on the DJ 20 is the perfect length for 8 footers but the outfeed table should be about 18 inches longer just to make things comfortable.  Did you drill and tap the the end of your outfeed table so you had something to bolt the extension table to?

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 14, 2006 04:53am | #7

   Folks wouldn't think about using the table saw without support tables, why should a jointer be any different. You don't really need a massive jointer in a small shop, you just have to know how to make it work for different conditions. I drilled the ends of my tables and bolted on a block. The table drops over the block and is held on with a couple screws. It only takes a few seconds to add or remove the tables. You can make up some different sizes as needed. The infeed table is the most important for straightening edges on longer boards. 24" tables make a big difference and handle 12'+ stock easily.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   skycowboypaul | Apr 14, 2006 05:52am | #8

   You answered that question hammer1, thank you.

3. 
   Woodk | Apr 12, 2006 01:12am | #3

   My opinion-edge jointing is one thing.  Face jointing is another animal altogether.  I hate face jointing anything much longer than my jointer-IE about 4 feet in my case.  Edge jointing, I don't seem to have an issue with 6 foot boards. 

   Again, just my opinion.  I would like to see all Jointers come standard x10 their width...IE-a 6" jointer would need a 60" bed.  The only manufact. I've seen do this is Powermatic.  Jet and General seem to be offerring something similar if you can find them anywhere.

   Just my opinion. 

1. 
   Marty_S | Apr 13, 2006 09:25am | #4

   What does width of the jointed surface (face vrs edge) have to do with accuracy?  If a jointer is accurately set up, it should true both a face or an edge with equal precision.

   Here's where I'm coming from: I have a Delta DJ-20, that when purchased new, had to have its in-feed table replaced (don't ask, it's too long of a story for this forum).  Adjusting the tables level (co-planer) with each other took me a number of hours, however the results were worth every minute.  Boards I face or edge joint come out as accurately as I can measure with both my eye and feeler gauges when jointed surfaces are held against one-another.  I recently completed a contract for a 6' diameter, circular topped table in oak, which was the biggest surface I'd had to make to date.  Jointing those oak planks accurately was quite easy with my jointer, with both the faces and edges straight and true.

   Again, I reiterate that jointing faces and edges of boards are easy to do accurately, as long as your machine is true and maintained in that condition.

   Marty S.

1. 
   Woodk | Apr 13, 2006 03:36pm | #5

   SE-was simply stating that it is much easier for me to balance a board edgewise than facing down, especially when it is a longer board.  And, yes, the more difficult it is to balance a board on your jointer, the more challenging accuracy becomes.