Replies

1. 
   BG | Mar 20, 2003 09:06pm | #1

   Bitman,

   Level in place...put top (or structure) in place with temporary support, bring up 4x4 and attach at top when level?

2. 
   pauld | Mar 20, 2003 09:07pm | #2

   How far out of level are you? If it's just a smidgen, you could easily tap in pairs of opposing wedges - if the deck is concrete, I'd use pressure treated, plastic, or something else that isn't likely to succumb to damage from exposure to moist concrete.

3. 
   johnhardy | Mar 20, 2003 09:12pm | #3

   Build your 2X6 frame and support it temporarily so that you can fasten the back edge to the wall in a level fashion. The front can be supported by 2X4s held on with clamps while the back is being fastened.

   Use some 2X4 material at the corners and wherever else you need a leg and lagbolt them behind the 2X6 framing. You can then use shorter 2X4 material as a sister (shorter by about 5.5 inches) so that the 2X6 frame rests on the sister. These can all be cut to size and tapped into place, and then screwed to the first 2X4. This should be comparable to a 4X4 that is notched on the top.

   John

4. 
   MIKEBUETTNER | Mar 20, 2003 09:30pm | #4

   Thanks for the ideas. Over the 12 foot span the floor is out by about 3/8" or so. On the 32" depth it is out by about 1/4". But it varies and I would like to get the contact with the floor as close as possible. Shims are probably the best idea. I had seen a beautiful free standing woodworking bench here a while back that had (I think) adjustable pads from MSC??? The pads where super duty industrial stuff.

   bit

1. 
   PlaneWood | Mar 21, 2003 04:57am | #5

   Pick up a few cedar shingles.  Find the leg(s) that don't touch the floor and drive two in at the bottom of the leg; one from each side.  When two tapered shingles are slid together (thick ends at opposite ends) the two will form a parallel surface.  When level is found, then mark the shingles with a pencil.  Cut a shim the thickness of the two shingles.  Or, just leave the shingles in place and cut off the excess.

   Same trick as squaring up a door jamb.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

2. 
   jackiechan | Mar 21, 2003 05:06am | #6

   Bitman,

   Reid Tool has every type of leveling pads/feet imaginable.  Here's a link https://www.reidtool.com/Pdf/category/leveling.pdf

   Grizzley also sells leveling machine mounts, but for a bench, I'd use something from Reid (see above) http://www.grizzly.com/products/items-list.cfm?&site=grizzly

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

5. 
   JohnWW | Mar 21, 2003 04:50pm | #7

   Here's any easy solution I've used a number of times. Cut your 4x4 legs 3/4 of an inch short, drill a pilot hole in the floor end of each leg and thread in a 4 in. long by 1/2 in. diameter lag bolt leaving 3/4 in projecting.  Assemble the bench and then use an open end wrench to adjust the lag bolts while you check for level with a carpenter's level resting on the bench top. 

   This method has two advantages, the bench can easily be releveled if it shifts with moisture changes or gets moved to a different location, the second benefit is that it keeps the end grain of the legs off the damp concrete forestalling the chance of rot.

   If you want to clean up the look of the legs, make four sided wood collars that slip around the bottom of each 4x4 leg.  Make the collar just loose enough to slide up the leg to allow access to the bolt head for adjustment.

   John W.

   
   

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   Edited 3/21/2003 9:58:00 AM ET by JohnW

6. 
   biznazion | Mar 21, 2003 05:39pm | #8

   I attached my current bench to the wall with a cleat, but when I use chisels or anything that requires pounding it can be heard in many rooms of the house.  Sometimes even sawing can be heard... the next one will not be attached to the wall.

1. 
   MIKEBUETTNER | Mar 22, 2003 03:30am | #9

   Thanks again for the help. As for the cleat on the wall, I luckily have a detached garage. Those adjusters at MSC are quite nice. Anyone have a reference for either a web site or book on workbenches? Not the traditional woodworkers bench but more along the lines of a workbench framed of 2X4 or 2X6 with cabinets below and above?

   Thanks,

   bit

1. 
   Jeff | Mar 22, 2003 03:38pm | #10

   Bitman

   I build all my shop benches from 2X4 lumber and find it works great.

   My standard way of building is to make the legs and main supports from 2 pieces to have strength. I just screw them together as an L.

   Cross pieces always sit on the long pieces for strength.

   I never glue so I can make changes in the future.

   Tops are either plywood, MDF, or flat boards (depends on what the

   table is used for).

   My last one is a full 4X8 ft, with shelves below, bench vise along

   one side, hardwood edging and MDF for flatness on top.

   I also put some 10 ft pipes thru the ends with pipe clamps on them.

   This gives me a large vise end for clamping on either end.

   Jeff

2. 
   SAWBOSS | Mar 23, 2003 02:37pm | #11

   THE NEW YAKEE WORKSHOP HAS A COUPLE OF VERY NICE WORKBENCHES WITH PLENTY OF STORAGE.

   http://WWW.NEWYANKEE.COM