Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Mar 21, 2010 07:59pm | #1

   A couple of questions...

   1.  Presumably you have found that if you just trimmed all of the legs to the same length from the underside of the table top the table wobbles? 

   2.  Are you sure that the floor you are testing it on is flat?

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Mar 22, 2010 07:51am | #5

   Thanks John, and all.

   The four legs are indeed the same length (off the table top).  It is a "homemade" child's table.  When the legs are on, there is some variation in the way they mate to the aprons.  The legs are secure when installed, so I would rather just trim the one or two legs that need trimming.  It is not  a "fine" piece of woodworking, but it is very nice.

   I have seen various tips and techniques over the years but have simply not needed them so I didn't try to remember them.  Thought I would see if anyone had a few simple steps.  Looks like there may be some good ideas to try here.

   Thanks everyone.

   Alan - planesaw

2. 
   DonStephan | Mar 21, 2010 08:27pm | #2

   Because wood doesn't always cooperate, any wobble may be different depending upon whether the top is secured to the base, and may even change if the top is turned 180 degrees and secured to the base.

   Marking where to cut can be a challenge in itself.  If possible, I'd try to set the table in its eventual position, and then level by inserting shims as needed between the legs and floor.  I've found business cards make great shims because they are relative thin, and relatively consistent in thickness.  When you're satisfied with the shimming, I'd use another stack of business cards and thin knife, and carefully scribe a cut line on the longest legs.  Securely clamp the table on a workbench with the offending leg(s) horizontal and closest to the bench.  I'd trim to the line with a fine tenon or dovetail saw, then carefully sand relatively smooth.

3. 
   sapwood | Mar 21, 2010 10:31pm | #3

   The written language is always suspect when its from me, but I will attempt to explain the procedure. 

   Place the table onto whatever surface you want to work from. If you want something flat, then I'd suggest your table saw if its large enough. 

   Temporarily shim the short legs so that the table doesn't wobble. Adjust those shims and even some placed under the long legs to make the table surface level. 

   Taking a pencil, pen, scribe... whatever you have to mark with, place it on a thin block of wood that will put the marker exactly even with the bottom of the shortest leg. This is the point on a leg that is furthest above the bench surface. 

   Mark all the other three legs. Cut at the marks. Your table will not wobble anymore.... until you put it on an uneven surface. 

   Note: you can substitute a compass or carpenter's scribe for the block of wood. 

   If the forgoing isn't clear enough, I'm sure somebody else will have some different language to clear things up a bit. 

   Or another way... you can very slowly and carefully lower the table legs into a very still pool of ink. The stains will all be at one "level."

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 22, 2010 02:00am | #4

   Need a jig?

   Well, you only need to trim one leg to get it to stop rocking.  Level is another issue.

   Though I've fortunately not needed to use such a jig yet, I like Jeff Miller's jig described in his book Chairmaking & Design by Linden Publishing.  It is basically a piece of flat stock as large as the footprint of the object being leveled (Miller uses it for chairs, and this technique may be impractical for really large tables).  He recommends MDF for it's flatness.  He notches one corner to the thickness of his kugihiki (Japanese flush cut saw with no set) and sets the long leg in notch and saws it even with the rest.  A handscrew keeps the chair from rocking.  The jig is described on page 45 and pictured on page 48.

5. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 22, 2010 09:50am | #6

   Book, not magazine.

   Alan,

   Please note that the jig came out of Miller's book, not a magazine.

6. 
   alanplanesaw | Mar 22, 2010 11:36pm | #7

   olddusty --

   I like your ideas.  When you signed off "Paradise" I thought you might be indicating you live close to me.   As in Paradise, PA.  But, I see Oregon.

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 23, 2010 08:48am | #8

   Alan,

   Was passing thru your area the other day, and was told that the best way to get to Paradise, was through Intercourse...

   Ray

2. 
   oldusty | Mar 23, 2010 10:08am | #9

   Alan , this is not the way I first leveled things ,,, did I ever tell you the story about turning that chair into a stool , n/c ?

                 I live in an area that has to be close to Paradise but I have never been there in PA .

                                 regards     dusty,boxmaker

                 

7. 
   JiminFla | Mar 23, 2010 11:23am | #10

   Easy way

   Put the table on your workbench.  Put a shim under the leg(s) that are too short so that it doesn't rock anymore.  Take a compass and set the distance between the point and the pencil to be a little longer than the gap between the shortest leg and the top of the workbench.  Scribe a line on each leg.  Cut along the lines with a hand saw.  This works for angled legs as well as straight.

   Jim