I just finished two large cherry panels for a headboard. I wiped on 2 coats of a 3 part finish-1 part BLO, 1 part gloss poly, and 1 part odorless mineral spirits. I’m getting little droplets that look like sweat on them. These droplets appear the next day and if the panels get sunlight. I’m wondering if my shop is too cool which won’t allow the finish to cure properly or if the poly and/or linseed oil are not compatible or have some sort of shelf life. The poly is pretty new, about 1 year old, but the linseed oil is fairly old. Do the dryers in BLO lose their effectiveness over 4-6 years? I keep my shop about 58 degrees Farenheit. I just turned up the heat to 65. I’ve never encountered this problem. ??????? Thanks in advance.
There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
Replies
Howdy, Bleu,
Cherry is notorious for bleedback, which is what you're experiencing. In fairness, some bleedback is to be expected, irrespective of species, when applying an oil finish but cherry is one of the worst.
When the finish is applied, it soaks into the pores; as it polymerizes, very small quantities ooze out of the pores and appear as miniscule blemishes on the surface.
When I apply oil finishes, I sand it in, which makes bleedback less of an issue on the first few coats because subsequent sanding will remove these annoying little finishing blemishes. On the final few coats, wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free, cloth about once an hour until you no longer see evidence of bleedback. Problem solved.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Hi Dogg,
Thanks for your post. In the past I've noticed small amounts of bleedback but nothing compared to what I got this time. What I did to try to combat it was 1-warm up the shop to around 68 degrees, got new poly-Minwax, got new BLO. I put on a coat this morning and have had minimal bleedback up to now, about 9 hours later. I think the lack of warmth may have been the biggest problem. I've been checking and wiping every hour or so. Geez, rereading my response it looks like the last couple lines could also be about lady troubles. :)
Thanks again,
BleuThere are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
I don't have anywhere near the experience of Jazzdog (above), but have learned the hard way about bleeding finishes. Totall solved in my case(s) by using a wetsanding technique to apply such things as Danish oil. If it worked on red oak (mega-pores!) it should work on cherry.
[PS: besides that, it gives a beautiful, silky finish]
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 4/13/2004 2:27 pm ET by forestgirl
Thanks forestgirl. I think I posted this already but what I did was buy new poly and BLO, turned up the heat to around 70 in my shop and applied the finish with 0000 steel wool. The panels look great and only had minimal bleeding the first few hours. This was the 3rd coat so it's time to glue up the headboard. I also realized that the test panels I finished and brought in the house didn't bleed so the lack of warmth must have been the real culprit. By the way, I enjoy reading your various posts.
BleuThere are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
I've put 3 coats of a 3 part oil based finish on the panels and they came out great. Now I'm debating whether or not to finish the rails and legs that the panels go into before glue up. I've seen both methods mentioned in past threads. I'm thinking it would be hard to keep the finish from the grooves where the panels meet the rails and legs if I finish the rails and legs after assembly. What do you think?There are more old drunkards than old doctors. Ben Franklin
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