Hi,
I was just wondering about those of you who are using the L-N chisels, what angle are you at, what microbevel angle, etc. I’ve been using a set for a couple months now and I find they are losing their edge quicker than I expected. Mine are ground to 30 degrees, as they came from L-N.
Just wondering if my expectations are greater than the chisel…
thanks for any advice,
Jeff
Replies
I have the 30 main, 33 primary and 35 micro. Seems to hold up better for me.
Eric
Jeff
I'm curious as to when you purchased yours. I was under the impression that LN had solved the problems they were having initially with edge retention. Was it a recent purchase?
I've been thinking about adding a set of their chisels, but am concerned about this issue coming up again. Please let me know.
Jeff
I received mine December, so they're relatively new. As I mentioned earlier, they are honed to 30 degrees, and after chopping only few dovetails in maple, the edges appeared to be fairly ragged. I've since put a 35 degree micro bevel(this is what LN recommends) and things seem better, but I've not had much chance to use them this way. Also, I'm only using the 3/8 and 1/4 for dovetails, the others have seemed fine so far.I have some japanese chisels that I can compare to, I'll try and be a bit more scientific about what I experience as I continue to use the LNs.Jeff
I have a set of Nishiki Kamaji Umeki-Oire-Nomi (i think japanese for dovetail) chisels from toolsforworkingwood.com. They were rediculously expensive, but my wife bought them for me with my own money (hah!), so it was ok! They are all at 35°, and the edges last longer (double) than any other chisel that I have ever used, including Two Cherries, which are known for their toughness and edge retention. I can't say that I'd recommend to anyone to go spend 800 bucks on 6 chisels, but they are fantastic.
Since I have everything else from LN, I was thinking about listing those chisels for my fathers day gift from the wife and kids, but I'd want to know that the QC on them is up to snuff with their other tools.
A good pal of mine got one of the original LN chisel sets, and they had to go back because they were absolutely crap. LN took care of it very professionally though, and I believe, admitted that their initial run of these had major issues with the tool steel used.
Please keep us posted.
Jeff
Just for interest, I bought a set of Toshio Odate dovetail chisels last year, and once I had about halved the cutting angle as supplied they have been excellent. I do not belt them, once honed they cut easily with very little persuasion.
I had hankered after a set of L-N for some time but already have many chisels which my wife says I do not use!
If we listened to our wives, the tool companies would go out of business, and jewelry stores would be leading the stock exchanges worldwide.
Do you chop with them at 15°???? I would think that the edge would be very brittle at that angle.
Jeff
Is JeffHeath a pseudonym for Tim Taylor? No, I reground at a paring angle cutting at about 25. Chop is a dirty word, I am a vegetarian.
I have a set that I've been using for a couple of months. I have used them mostly in exotics such as Bubinga, Pau Ferro, Cocobolo, ect. and they have held their edge beautifully. I use the thirty degree bevel they came with and I put a little micro bevel on them. I don't know what the micro is since I sharpen them on water stones by eye. I then run them over a hard piece of leather with white diamond pasted during use. I can usually use them all day before I go back to the stones. They way you sharpen will have a impact on the edge retention so try a few different techniques. Not that your not sharpening them correctly but try playing with angles etc.. I am using Barr and a set of Japanese chisels as comparison for durability. The Barr and Lie Nielsen are about par and the Japanese stay sharper a little longer. I have in the past had chisels that didn't seems to hold an edge well at all until I played with my sharpening techniques and it made a world of difference. An example is my Barr chisels. He recommends placing the tip on the chisel on the stone and as you move the chisel forward you reduce the angle until you end up with the full bevel on the stone at the front of the stroke. It sounded weird and it was a technique I have never tried or heard of. It works beautifully. In fact if the chisels are not sharpened in this manner the edges seem to fold like a cheap blue chip. Enjoy those new chisels. Cheers.
So I'm trying to understand your technique...is the end result a rounding over in the transition from the micro bevel to the main bevel? From maybe 33 to 30 or so? How is your technique different from simply sharpening with no jig, by hand? (My main bevel always ends up rounded over if I don't use a jig...)thanks,
Jeff
couple of months, no issues. Very happy with them. I had them at near 25 degrees for a while, but went back to 30 and found the response much better. BTW, I've been working with white oak lately, and a little maple.
One thing I did notice early on is that they don't seem to respond well to heavy chopping.
I've spent all weekend chopping dovetails (curly maple blanket chest), & they held up superbly. I leave the 30 degree bevel, & micro-bevel at 32.
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