So I got some lie Nielsen stuff from a friend of a friend after a husband passed and a couple of the saws say “independence” on the box. I have no idea what this means and couldn’t find them on the LN site.
many info would be great! Also assuming none of these are dovetail saws. Correct?
Replies
Independence Tool was a saw making company started by Patrick Leach and another guy that LN acquired. LN manufactured the saws with the Independence name for a while but phased out the naming.
What matdog said.
Dovetail saws are usually 14ish point rip, so the 10 is a little coarse for dovetails, unless you are cutting thicker stock. But it will certainly work.
I like a 14ppi crosscut carcase saw for most everything. I use it as my primary dovetail saw, except for really thin stock.
Those are some nice saws. Try them out, and see how they cut.
Not sure if it’s lack of experience or if the saws are just super sharp . But the saws seem pretty hard to get the cut started. Once I can get it started they cut like butter.
I’m a power tool woodworker with hand plane and chisel experience but hand saws other than Japanese saws are new to me
Getting a cut with those saws will be a little tough to get at first. Practice and you’ll get the hang of it.
Make sure to support the weight of the saw at the start of the cut and make the first stroke a decisive - not hesitant - one. Don't let it dig in.
I haven't used a 10 tpi dovetail saw, but with the usual 14tpi on my Veritas saw and LN ones I've tried, I find it's vital to take a bit of a Zen approach on the first few strokes. First, no grip of death. Second, draw the saw back to get your line right then go forward lightly as the teeth start to catch and keep the momentum going as they go deeper on the first stroke or three. Your main goal at this point should be keeping the saw perpendicular to the surface you're cutting and on your line. After, you'll have a reliable kerf and you can start putting a little more force and speed into it, although not much. Once you get the hang of this technique, you'll like it. It's a feeling like hitting a tennis ball perfectly, swishing a jump shot, whatever else you might have experienced when you do something physical that just works.
At some point, you might want to try a Japanese pull saw. I find them best for through dovetails and they make a smaller kerf, so you can saw a tad closer. For half-blind dovetails, I find the Western dovetail saw's added stiffness helps keep your cut straight in the confined cut of this joint.
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