Hi all,
I’ve saved for a nice jointer plane, and I’m ready to go all in on one of these things. I’m debating between the Lie Nielsen No 7 or No 8 and the less pricey Lee Valley bevel up jointer with the fancy fence attachment. I’ve also thought about the Clifton No 7. All of which are pretty epic tools but I’m really interested in knowing if the Lie Nielsen and the Clifton really are that much better. I work with difficult grain on occasion but not often enough to warrant a HAF. What would you go with?
Replies
Were it my choice I would get the Lee Valley, if for no other reason than I really like the Lee Valley planes I have.
But, for roughly the cost of the Lie Nielson #7, you can get the Lee Valley bevel up jointer, the jointing fence attachment, two extra blades with 38 and 50-degree bevels, and the toothed blade. With that set up, I don't think there is anything you couldn't handle.
Thus, in my mind at least, you end up with a far more versatile set up, for the same cost.
You should buy it and send it to me and I will send you my old MillersFalls #22 jointer plane and we will both be happy. Seriously the Lie Nielsen #7 and 8 are really nice planes and you will be very happy with them. My old Millersfalls is very nice especially after I added an after market chip breaker and blade and it does what it is supposed to do but if money is no object go with the LN
Troy
sbuoncristiani,
The answer is really quite simple. I've wasted too much money in my life already to lust after a #7 LN for the next some odd years. In other words, it's time to treat me good, for the last 35 years it's been everyone else.
Now, here's the tough part, how do I treat me good?..especially given the fact that I'm a cheap old dog with two sides: the logical me and the emotional me ...both need to be satisfied.
Logically, buying either of these large planes gives me a better tool than a used #7. Better in the sense that finer shavings, better adjustments, etc. however, I don't need better at that level of planing, I've got a LN 4.5 for finishing the job..nd then hand scraping for the face.
Emotionally, the tool feels fantastic in the hand, like a new baseball glove. I can probably sell it used for what I paid, why not?
LN #7 is my vote. The #8 is not necc. for most purposes and the LV is inferior.
I love LV products, but LN really knows how to make a plane.
I use the Veritas bevel up jointer and couldn't be any happier... It's a great plane that does an outstanding job.
Tom's Workbench
http://tomsworkbench.com
You will likely be happy with either the #7 or the BUJ. But they are different planes, both in concept and in feel (LN is high centre of gravity; the LV is low centre of gravity). The only way you will know which is right for YOU is to try them out.
I have both the Stanley #7 (with Clifton blade and capiron), and the LV BUJ (with a few blades). My review of the latter included a comparison of the two planes:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/z_art/LVBevelUpJointer/LVBevelJoint1.asp
Regards from Perth
Derek
Edited 2/25/2008 7:58 am ET by derekcohen
Edited 2/25/2008 7:58 am ET by derekcohen
I can say that my L-N #7 is my most used plane, period. I love it. In fact if I could have only one plane the #7 would be it. I’m not a fan of BU planes for most applications but my L-N low angle jack is great for end grain and I use it on the shooting board.
Well, I cant speak to if one's better than the other but I can speak to the #7. It was my first plane purchase(notice I said first). I had a 6" delta jointer that was (still is) a piece of crap. I got it to flatten some stock. It's a sweet tool. I cut my pieces down to close finished dimensions and flattend that first face with the #7. I watched Rob Cosmans rough to ready dvd and away I went. The scrub plane makes life a lot easier if your stock is rough to begin with.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I own 4 LN planes, including the #7, making the choice to save my pennies to buy LN. No knock on any other plane maker, it was just a matter of going with a decision and not fretting about it. It's a self-fulfilling prophecy - there is no buyer's remorse if you ignore buyer's remose.
It's a matter of what the value of the tool is to your method of work. You can justify going with a different plane mfg and use the remaining budget for something else if you want to stretch your money, no shame in that. If you really want the LN #7, go for it, and enjoy it every time you use it.
Cheers,
Seth
Just about a week ago while I was at a local Woodcraft store I made a mistake in opening my mouth while buying a few items I said that if they had a LN #7 in the glass cabinet I would have bought it. Well the clerk said that he might actually have one back in the stock room. Sure as hell they actually had 2 back there so I said "Well I opened my mouth so I am going to have to buy it now". I've been wanting a LN #7 for awhile yet but have been getting away with not buying one because of not seeing it in stock at any of the local dealers (as opposed to just ordering one online). I know I will be greatly happy with it, haven't had a chance to use it yet though. Now to sort of defend the reason why I got the LN over the LV is that I am pretty much a LN enthusiast since I bought my first LN Block plane several months back. Now I own all LN 60-1/2, 60-1/2 R, Bronze #4, #5-1/2, #7, spokeshave, small and large router, mortise chisel, a couple of skew chisels, a set of 7 bench chisels and even a LN T-Shirt. But with all that said I know LV makes some really nice planes and it's a possibility that if my first plane was LV then I would probably own pretty much all LV stuff. Hope this helps
B.Kdd
<"Now I own all LN 60-1/2, 60-1/2 R, Bronze #4, #5-1/2, #7, spokeshave, small and large router, mortise chisel, a couple of skew chisels, a set of 7 bench chisels and even a LN T-Shirt">Admitting the problem is the first step to getting help. http://www.lie-nielsenaddictsonline.org;^)Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
:-)
http://www.lie-nielsenaddictsonline.org
Glaucon,
I just signed on and registered. It said I am member # 435,877
Thanks for the link!
Lee
How in the devil do you find such restraint?
Man if I just bought a new plane I would probably get stopped for speeding on the way home to try it out! Jeesh maybe I'm not that old afterall. Do enjoy as I'm sure you have with the others.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
LOL Bob, well unfortunately I am going through some unwanted marital issues right now :( so some of my projects are put on hold. B.Kidd
Ouch... on the other hand, WWing is good therapy (and often cheaper).Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
I have the Clifton 7. I love it. Very fine adjustments. Regardless I might not go for an 8: man they are heavy.
I have a #7c and #8c Stanleys. They are all I'll ever need. The 8 is a big hunk on iron, but glides thru tough grain, with no problems. Less than $150 invested in both, counting the Hock irons.
JGW
I have both a LN #7 and a Stanley #7. I took the time to highly tune up the Stanley and gave it a Hock Iron and Chipbreaker, it has worked extremely well for years. The LN weighs more and has a slightly thicker iron which translates into slightly better performance with difficult woods. The Stanley does everything a jointer should do. In truth, I bought the Lie-Neilsen because I wanted it rather than needed it.
The real issue in any plane buying decision is what do you plan to use the plane for. If it is edge jointing and generally dimensioning boards, the LN bevel down #7 is pretty hard to beat. However, if you are really buying the plane to smooth the face of larger panels, either the LN or LV bevel up jointer will save you money and do a better job.
I own several bevel up and bevel down planes and, through heavy use of each, have come to realize that bevel down planes excel at stock removal to generally flatten and dimension a board. Bevel up planes make better smoothers and do a better job shooting end grain. I use a LN BU Jack to smooth panels after using the LN #7 to joint (followed by glue up) and then flatten the glued up panels. I also use the BU jack to shoot end grain.
Hope this helps.
Edited 2/26/2008 8:37 pm ET by gdblake
Good post.
Regards from Perth
Derek
It would be a simple decision for me. Hands down the LN #8. I own a Stanley #7 and a bunch of LV planes but I reach for my LN #8 very often.
s, the Clifton #7 is 10 pounds, it has not a thick iron-it is a massive iron with a two part cap. It is my best joiner for general and difficult wood vs.my Stanley #7, #608 but on shorter boards of really nasty grain the LN #5 1/2 HAF is the go to tool. I selected the LN because of the HAF and the weight over the Clifton #5 1/2.
If I broke/lost the Clifton #7, I would order another before the end of the day.
Paddy
I have the LN #7. I would have bought a #7 Bailey for a jointer, but it's not easy to find one whose sole is dead flat or can be made so- the key issue for a jointer. If you can find a pre-WWII #7 or a 607 that's not flat, it's a long weekend's work to lap it flat, and the effort is not always crowned with success.
I chose the LN #7 over the LV BU jointer for the mass and balance. I work with figured wood, but I favor jointing first and then using a York-pitch smoother and a card scraper- thus far tear-out has not been a big problem.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
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