Replies

1. 
   highfigh | Jan 17, 2006 07:58pm | #1

   You can knock the corners off on a grinder with a fine wheel. You don't need to remove much, just enough that the edges don't leave a line when the iron is exposed. You don't want to use a water stone for this because you'll leave a groove in the stone and that area will be useless for honing until you flatten the stone again, so why make extra work for yourself? 220 grit silicon carbide paper will ease the corner if you don't have a grinder. If you have emery cloth, it's even faster. If you haven't read any of the books on handplanes or sharpening, you might consider that before starting. There may be some conflicting information, but you know what you need the plane to do. I have the cheapo honing guide from Lee Valley and it works great. I scribe a line on the back of my irons that corresponds with the back edge of the guide so I don't need to spend a lot of time checking for the "perfect" mate of the iron to the paper (I use SiC sandpaper on a flat piece of granite). Then, if I'm just doing a light hone, I can back it up a touch and all I'm doing is honing a microbevel. I generally don't do much of a micro bevel, but if the iron needs more than just light honing, I start over with 220 grit and go all the way to 1500 or 2000 grit. If I need to re-check the bevel, I have the bevel guide from Lee Valley and a protractor.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
2. 
   Handrubbed | Jan 17, 2006 09:21pm | #2

   The wide roller on the MkII prevents one from relieving the corners of the iron.  You can put a few layers of narrow tape around the roller to allow finger pressure to be applied to the corners.  Otherwise, use a guide with a narrow roller, like an Eclipse.

3. 
   John_D | Jan 18, 2006 12:00am | #3

   In his video, David Charlesworth demonstrates doing this by concentrating a lot of pressure over one corner of the blade for just a few strokes, then doing the other corner.  You are not looking for much of a curve!

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
4. 
   walkerwr | Jan 18, 2006 01:25am | #4

   I use the Veritas Mark II and it works great.  As John suggested, I apply a moderate amount of downward pressure (not to hard) on each corner for a few strokes which relieves the corners a couple of thousandths - it works wonderfully.  Used this method just this week with my new veritas low angle jack plane with excellent results.

   
   

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   Edited 1/17/2006 5:26 pm ET by RandyWalker

5. 
   cleanwater | Jan 25, 2006 08:50pm | #5

   As mentioned by others, downward pressure on the corners (even with a Veritas MK II gauge that I use) makes a big difference.

    

   The other trick I use with my honing guide is that I put  something thin (like 3x5 index card (s)) under one edge of the guide.  Raising one side of the guide allows the opposite corner to be isolated  and rounded.  A few passes on the corner then swap sides (I think I learned this from Dave Charlsworth's sharpening video).

    

   FM

1. 
   rshelly | Jan 25, 2006 09:15pm | #6

   Thanks everyone, I bought the Mk. II and was able to ease the corners with pressure applied to the edges. I think I'll try the index card trick-might be faster.