Lining cherry jewelry boxes with velvet
KiddervilleAcres
| Posted in Wood and Materials on
Hi All,
Not sure if this is the right forum, but I am in the process of finishing some jewelry boxes and I would like to line the interiors with velvet. Any and all suggestions as to the best methods/materials for applying the velvet will be most appreciated.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Replies
I have used both the flocking and adhesive-baked velvet from http://www.rockler.com.
If you follow the directions rigorously, the spray-on Suede-Tex flocker works fine. Use it if the box is already assembled.
The key to wrinkle-free success with adhesive-backed velvet is to apply it to its substrate before the substrate is mounted in the box. Trying to lay it into the bottom of a box is an exercise in frustration and likely to damage your soul. You can peel off the release liner as you lay the velvet on the substrate. But it worked better for me to cut the velvet a little oversize, lay it face down on a flat surface, peel off all the release liner, very carefully lower the substrate onto the adhesive side, flip it over, smooth out any small wrinkles or bubbles, and trim off the excess velvet.
Edited 2/8/2006 10:09 am by JohnH
Thanks John,
I purchased some velvet from a fabric store and it is not adhesive backed, so I guess I'll have to mount it to some form of substrate, then place it in the box.
Thanks for your response,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Bob, I've lined some jewelry boxes with velvet but I was winging it. I used some high quality matte board as a base, sprayed it with adhesive and applied a layer of polyester fill to the front. I then wrapped the upholstered panel with the velvet. I used some iron on hemming tape. This is a roll of cloth like tape which is actually a hot melt glue. You place it between the cloth and what you want to glue it to and use a hot steam iron and a damp towel to activate the hot melt glue. It is a little like wrapping a Christmas present. Each drawer had five pieces prepared, one bottom and four sides. The back side of the pieces aren't seen so I wrapped the velvet around and used the glue tape on the back. You have to allow for the wrap of material when sizing the matte board. The pieces hold themselves in the drawer and are easy to remove for cleaning. A dot of Velcro could be used to hold large panels in place. Velvet is a beautiful material, much nicer than flocking and the pillow like upholstering adds a touch of elegance.
You could skip the polyester and matte board and glue the fabric directly to the drawer. I'd still use the hemming tape to fold the cloth back on itself for the edges. If you just cut the fabric, it will fray. You can use Sobo glue to attach the fabric to your wood but it will be permanent.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hi hammer,
I purchased some velvet from a fabric store, not adhesive backed, so I guess I need to follow your lead as to mounting it to a substrate, as this will allow for removal for cleaning if necessary.
The bottom is pretty straightforward, it just lays on the bottom. But what about the sides? How can I ensure that they won't collapse toward the center of the box, falling away from the sides? Actually now that I think about it, the sides should all work together to keep each other upright depending on the stiffness of the substrate, correct?
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
P.S. I forgot to mention that this particular box has no drawers. I plan on making some shaped cleats that will be attached to each of the corners after installing the felt to provide support a tray. The tray will be made of wood, with a web of partitions. I haven't decided if I will line the bottom of the tray w/velvet?
Any thoughts on this approach?
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Hey Bob,I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to fabric but I like it. The drawers I lined were small, 2" deep 4"x12". The matte board I used was very stiff and the linings hold themselves in place. If I had concerns about keeping things in place, I'd probably use a dot of Velcro or two. The only reason I used the separate panels is because I couldn't figure out how to use the polyester fill and glue the fabric to the drawer sides. Without the fill, I would fold the edges back on themselves and use the iron on tape to hold the fold. I'd then use Tacky glue to attach the fabric directly to the wood. I have a piece in the finish room that will also have fabric panels. These are larger, 8"x17". I used 1/8" MDF and four layers of polyester fill. These panels have bowed out in the middle. I don't know if it is the fabric or the fill that has bowed them but in this case it doesn't matter.I have a couple of pictures. One of the drawer, one of the project in the finish room and another of a nice jewelry tray. The tray has been totally wrapped with self adhesive velvet. A pattern was made and the fabric was cut to make the wrap. I like the center section for rings. Sorry about the picture quality, the camera doesn't always want to work lately.I don't see why your idea wouldn't work. Velvit will crush if a constant pressure or weight is kept on it. I think just a bottom of velvit would be nice, wood partitions on top. If the bottom is captured in a groove or rabbet, I think you could just glue the fabric and cut it flush. 3M spray adhesive is also handy with fabric. The project (window cornice) I'm making has sparked my interest in using fabric. I can imagine all kinds of applications. It may be time to learn more about sewing.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hi hammer.
Nice pics! You do some really nice stuff. The upholstered panel has peaked my interest.
I just started applying the finish to the outside of the boxes (14 of them)! I sanded both inside and out through the grits, 100 to 240, smooootthhh as a baby's arse! I'm using Tung Oil for the outside, hand rubbed on all of them. I'm thinking of applying Zinseer clear shellac to the insides of the box itself.
I talked to a friend of mine who workes at the Ethan Allen furniture factory and he's going to get me some 1/8" thick sheets of solid wood to make the substrate panels for the velvet. I think I will use your idea about the velcro and make buttons on the back side of the panels to allow removal so the velvet can be cleaned if necessary. Hoping these will also provide support for the tray to sit on top as the side panels will only go part way up from the bottom.
As an aside, I made these boxes from 4/4 rough cut cherry, planed on one side(the inside). The entire box is assembled using only rabbit joints everywhere. I had the help of a friend in making them nearly 20 years ago! To test their stability once constructed, we tossed them down 3 flights of stairs! All survived, so I guess they'll last!
From this rough box, I formed them into all manner of shapes from one that looks like a loaf of bread to one that is somewhat squared and has what looks like a raised section on the top center.
I'll post pics when complete. Thanks for all your help and excellent ideas.
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Make insert panels of poster board. Cover with velvet and wrap around edges. Use a sharpie to color the inside joints black. That way if two panells are off by a hair the wood will not show - it just looks like a shadow.
Try Lightly stretching the fabric and push- pinning it (good side down) to a clean flat board (Make it over size.)
Use precut paperboard to glue'backers' to the back of the fabric. Cut and fit cardboard templates a bit undersized (as the edges will be wrapped)
The templates will be used to mark out the eight 'backers'
Allow for wrapping around the four backing sides with extra 1/2" of velvet
I use paper/rubber cement to apply to the outer edges of the backing's four edges. Let it dry somewhat, then carefully place the glued side down onto the cloth. Roll gently with a wallpaper roller
When fully dry, cut off all but the 1/2"additional 'wrap' and miter the corners and apply the cement to the back of the board's edges roll the wraps with the roller and just apply a few dabs of glue to the panels and apply panels to the wood. Steinmetz.
Do the bottoms and tops last
Observe the 'nap' of the velvet by brushing lightly with a finger to orient all panels in the same direction
If you're making many duplicate boxes, mark and save those cardboard templates for further use.
Edited 2/19/2006 9:21 pm ET by Steinmetz
Sounds like the direction I will go. One question I have is how do you prevent the velvet from unraveling?
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Kidderville, NH
Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!
The extra 1/2"0f material is wrapped over and glued around the back on all sides where the selvage won't show. The reason I suggested to install the tops and bottoms last, was in the event you spill a little glue, it will be under the last pieces and won't show.ED.
Edited 2/21/2006 1:05 am ET by Steinmetz
Velvet for box with 2 wine glasses
Do you have any pictures of your work .... I am building a box for 2 wine glasses & would like it to be really elegent.
Thanks
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