Hi all-
I’ve read numerous places about the cost vs. benefits of adding link belts to a machine. I’ve done it myself with good results on my very old jointer.
My unisaws 3 belts are well past their prime and ready to be replaced.
It seems easier to use a link belt – but is it wise?
I’ve seen the upgrade for the contractor style saws in all the catalogs and it seems like a good solution if needed but i’ve never seen the “unisaw” replacement kit.
I don’t need a kit – It just seems that if it was a good option to pursue- someone would have packaged it up for me to buy.
Anyone tried it? Am I over thinking this?
Your input appreciated
Rich
Replies
W.W Grainger sells link belts in 25 and 100 ft lengths IIRC. There are others who may beat their prices. I think I bought a 25 ft box and had plenty to replace the belts on a contractor saw, a band saw and a lathe-all a noticable improvement.(wouldn't fit the drill press, wrong pitch)
Pat
The contractor's saw kits also include replacement pulleys, since the pulleys on many contractor's saws are, at least sometimes, poorly made.
The Unisaw won't need replacement pulleys so there is nothing you need except a length of link belting, that's why there aren't kits for the job.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
It used to be that the Unisaw belts were best "matched sets" of three. Now, any three belts from the same production are sufficiently well matched for them to share the load.
I don't know whether there is the same sort of length consistency possible with link belts, so I would be a bit dubious.
In any event I have never felt the need for "improvement" on the traditional belts. My Unisaw runs smoothly as it is. If it does, then why spend the extra dough.
Well what started the issue is that my new Unisaw is a bit of a vibration in it that may be the result of it sitting for about 7 months with out being used (as the shop was being built) and also thier is a good bang and a bounce when it first starts up so i was wondering if this would correct either or both issues.
Doug Meyer
Most likely your belts were old already and have taken a set. A new set of solid belts will solve that. Get a decent set from mcmaster, etc rather than lumpy cheapo ones from the local hardware store. You can probably reduce the bang with the existing belts by loosening them, then turning two so the set parts don't all go round the pulleys at the same time.Pete
I agree about just using three belts off the shelf. A better choice in belts would be a cog belt. The cogs make it better for smller diameter pulleys. I don't see any improvement on a Unisaw using a fenner belt. It does help on a contractor saw where the belt is suspended by gravity. A standard belt develops a memory and has a tendency to bounce hence the slight power loss. A Unisaw has the motor fixed in tension so no bounce.
The three belts is overkill. If you look at most European sliders and such with 7 or 9 hp, they use only one belt and no loss of power. The three belt pulley goes way back to over an over build tradition. Delta knows it doesn't need three belts but if they used a single or double pulley folks would scream foul. PM changed to a double pulley from a triple pulley years ago.
When I worked as a tech for a dealer I would use Grainger belts. About $5 each and no one ever complained except when they asked for OEM Delta belts and balked at the price.
RickL, I did put a cogged belt on my Delta shaper and it did make it run smoother. I did not use a link belt because the shaper is reversible. I should add that I used link belts for many years on my Unisaw and before it was retired I only used the 2 outer belts, per your advise, with no problem. I now have a Hammer B3 saw/shaper that does use a ribbed flat belt and both the saw and shaper spin like a top. I would use all three if you do a lot of ripping thick wood, otherwise 2 belts should be fine.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
You will need 7' of link belt and have about 1/2' extra. The original Unisaw belts are 26" in diameter. If you use 35 links per belt it will be very close to 26". Install them tight when you first install them as the stretch because of a link every 3/4". After they run for awhile adjust them a little looser, sort of egg shape when running.
I had them on my Unisaw for 10+ years and they worked great. The so called matched set that was on the saw were a joke as you could see that one was longer than the other two. Link belts are ideal for multiple belt applications. Since they stretch somewhat any variance in length is not a problem. But you will not have a problem with the length of link belts. If you make three 35 link belts for a Unisaw they will be a better matched set than the matched set you get from Delta. Also, I have a set of two on my Grizzly G0543 jointer.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
I put them on my Unisaw and it does run a little smoother. The link belts dont "set" like regular belts. I don't think that it made any functional difference.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
Thanks all for the answers- Right down to the number of links per belt! That's why we all hang out here- great info very fast
T
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