Hello to all,
I plan to use linseed oil (boiled) on a project. While reading a woodworking reference book, I noticed that the recommended procedure for using linseed oil is to dilute (50 %) the first coat with mineral spirits. Can you tell me if this dilution applies to boiled linseed oil or just to raw linseed oil? Are there any advantages to cutting boiled linseed oil with a solvent?
Thanks in advance,
Jack T.
Replies
Try cutting it with Turpentine. Turp is a dryer and will help speed up the drying a little. I think thinner solutons will penetrate deeper.
I used boiled linseed oil on some deck chairs. Couple of coats thinned with Turp. After a few weeks, I applied 2 coats of pure Tung oil cut with paint thinner. Tung oil is harder than Linseed oil and gives better protection.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
JackT,
I believe it must refer to boiled linseed oil. As I understand it (I'm no expert) boiled linseed oil is manufactured and has additives so as to make it dry and cure much faster. In my experience, raw linseed oil will not dry within a human lifetime (hyperbole). The point being that raw linseed oil really isn't suitable to use as a finish.
Alan
>> I plan to use linseed oil (boiled) on a project
The question that comes to my mind is why? It is a lousy finish. It has no water or water vapor protection, has no durability and requires constant maintenance. It makes a good colorant to "pop" the grain but has no other value as a standalone finish.
What is the item and what are you looking for in a finish.
>> The question that comes to my mind is why? It is a lousy finish. It has no water or water vapor protection, has no durability and requires constant maintenance.
I don't agree that it's lousy for all applications. I like the dull look of wood that has been coated with linseed oil which has soaked in thoroughly. And all pieces don't need the water proof protection that you refer to.
Just for the sake of example, the Wine Cabinet I posted in the Gallery has been wiped with about 3 coats of a mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Personally I like it. The aroma is potent though. It takes quite a while for the scent of this mixture to fade.
One important point when working with linseed oil: Be careful with those old rags and paper towels. Linseed oil generates heat when drying and a few rags thrown on top of each other in the trash can can cause a spontaneous combustion fire. Hang your rags to dry in such a way that they can't hold in the heat, or dispose of them in a sealed can, or burn them in the fireplace. I have a friend who just lost a beautiful new house almost near completion. Came to work one morning to just a great big ole pile of ashes. Burned to the ground - all lost. Linseed oil laden rags are the number one suspect.
jdg
I don't take issue with personal likes and dislikes, my comments are strickly on the performance of the material. If you accept that the function of a finish is to both provide aesthetic enhancement as well as some amount of protection, then true oil finishes are lacking. Water put on a surface treated with linseed oil will be rapidly absorbed with the possibility of staining. It tends to attract and hold dust that is not easily removed (one of the principle reasons old, old linseed oil covered furniture turns black) and it must be frequently renewed or it looks "dried out".
True oils color the wood but add no protection. There are other products that are as easy to apply, provide the same visual appeal and are more protective and long lasting. That's my only point.
"If you accept that the function of a finish is to both provide aesthetic enhancement as well as some amount of protection, then true oil finishes are lacking"I used, for many years, a penetrative oil finish for hardwood floors that was equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and tung oil, applied to saturation and the excess cleaned from the surface.Although not suitable for wet areas it is, IMO, the finish of choice. It brings out the color and figure of the timber better than anything else and allows the timber to breathe.As to wear, there is no surface finish to scratch and chip -- the surface of the timber develops a beautiful patina over time. IanDG
agreed - I've not really understood 'protecting' a durable material like wood with a few mils of a finish that discolors, scratches, and wears thru -
oil has its weak points, but it does let this wonderful material we call wood be itself -
I also agree. In fact Thos Moser's furniture is all Blo and wax.
http://www.thosmoser.com
I have coffe tables and end table's with an oil finish that have seen spills, hot spots,and glasses left overnight and the still look like new. Infact over the years it seems as if the surface is even tougher. I will take a hand rubbed finish any day. So do my client's.
Dale
Howie,
I agree. And "popping" the grain on a piece of figured maple is the exact reason I plan to use it. Thanks for your help.
trusche2
Oh, Howie beat me to the same question I would ask. Why or on What?
The last time I used boiled linseed oil was on the wood expansion joint running thru the middle of my garage floor. I had some water perking up from underneath and I figured half a dozen coats would help swell the wood and slow progress.
Minwax, Watco, Bartley!
Enjoy, Roy
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00060.asp
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
Gateway to the Oregon Caves
I recently finished an end table (walnut) using a product called "Tried and True," which is based on polymerized Linseed oil. It comes in three flavors: oil only, oil & beeswax, and oil & varnish. I used the oil & beeswax version. The results were outstanding, and there is no solvent aroma. If a piece doesn't require the protection or appearance of a film finish, I think this product is excellent. I got it from Lee Valley. Nick
Hi Nick, tried and true sounds interesting. how is applied? wipe on wipe off? drying time? Thanks, Brian
I used Tried and True on a red oak bed 16 months ago. It looks great and has held up well (under the loving attention of my 4 yo son).
On the recommendation of the Woodcraft guy, I ignored the instructions on the can.
I applied THIN coats, so thin the surface feels almost dry immediately after each application. I let each coat dry 36 hours. 5 coats almost entirely closed the oak end grain. A twin bed used less than 1/4 of the small can of finish.
The Woodcraft guy showed me a piece of mahogany end grain he had applied 15 coats to, and it was impressive. I ran out of patience after 5 coats.
The stuff even smells pretty good as it dries.
Hope this helps.
Jon
Boiled Linseed oil works well for certain pieces, I agree. I built a cherry dining table about 8 years ago and used BLO and Butcher's wax. It looks great but must be regularly maintained and you do have to be careful for water stains. Mine has a circle where a flower vase stood overnight. I would not use oil on a table that will see a lot of use.
Tried and true, which I've used twice now, seems to be very good. The only negative is that it is the consistency of honey and is somewhat of a pain to wipe off. The can recommends using a squeegee to spread it evenly. You can also heat up BLO and tried and true so it'll spread and absorb better.
Tried & True oil works best if it's warm. I put the oil can in a pan of hot water for a few minutes. Then just wipe on a thin coat with a rag or other applicator. Don't "flood" the surface--just enough to coat it. Then let it set, and wipe off any residual oil. Set time is 5-10 minutes for the Danish Oil (which is just polymerized linseed oil), 30-60 minutes for the Oil/Wax or Oil/Varnish products. Let it cure for a day, then repeat. Figure 2 coats for the Oil/Varnish, 3 coats for the others.
If you want a finish simular to linseed oil and tung oil, but better try velvet oil
It resists water ect. I realy like it . you buy it in stores, you have to order it
If interested contact me.
woodsy
I have a front door of mahogany that I am about to finish & have been reading all this input about the oils. Would it be right to first coat the door with a mixture of BLO/tung oil/turp equal mix to pop the grain & then top coat with a marine varnish cut down & subsequent coats to desired look ,to provide protection from the elements?
Yes. Works fine.
I'd be careful not to overdo the oil if the door is to be exposed to direct sunlight.IanDG
Never heard of velvet oil (not that that means anything). Would like to check it out. Brand name? Resource? Thanks, Brian
I will get info , try today Iif I forget let me know.
see ya
Hello Jack, and the rest of the group.
I use BLO straight out of the can (first, I put it in a small jar so I can close the can ASAP). I like the results. There is no need for a solvent if you are not adding some sort of resin (pine, copal, dammer etc.) to make an oil-varnish. Mineral spirits will not speed-up the rate of reaction and will not appreciably affect the rate of diffusion in a linseed oil finish. Boiled linseed oil has a catalyst added to make it cure faster.
Wipe it on, wait 20 t0 30 minutes then wipe off the excess. Patience is helpfull. The critical step is wiping off the excess. Puddles of linseed oil don't cure well, and cause the surface to be sticky.
Ciao,
Christopher
Edited 3/2/2003 7:01:41 PM ET by YAWL
Some points already made - Thomas Moser furniture makers have been using boiled linseed oil for over 20 years - and they guarantee all their products - no time limit. Tried & True finishes take the boiled linseed oil a little bit further and are great finishes.
What all of you have missed is that boiled linseed oil and Tried & True finish go on much better when heated to about 140 degress - a glue pot works great. The heated finish penetrates the wood and really help in the build-up. I toured the Moser factory last year and saw the linseed oil being applied - two heated coats followed by a a coat of canuba wax. Their furniture can be found not only in homes but in intensive use areas like college/university libraries and business offices/libraries.
It’s inaccurate to say that boiled linseed oil “has no water or water vapor protection”. Boiled linseed oil was the main ingredient in oil-based house paint for centuries, and is still the basis of most window glazing putty, which often remains stable for up to 100 years. As to vapor protection, if anything oil paints are faulted for being too vapor-protective, as they can trap moisture inside the wood where latex has more vapor permeance.
18 years... Apparently there is such a thing as a space time continuum
Not surprising as "permeance" relates only to magnetic flux.
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