Replies

1. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 30, 2003 11:48pm | #1

   Just use any brand of Boiled Linseed Oil.

   But if you are after the "extra" finish that an oil/varnish mixture gives, just use almost any brand of "danish oil," Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" (it's actually BLO and varnish), wiping varnish etc. You might even give the T&T a try. There are about an equal number of us who gave up on it as found that it DID cure. (I think it's a matter of quality control of the batches).

   If it doesn't set up for you, just follow it or BLO with a rubbing varnish or make your own by diluting almost any varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits, naphtha or turpentine. Apply, and wipe off all you can. After several applications about 48 hours apart, you will have achieved the more durable oil/varnish rubbed look you are after.

   VL

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Dec 31, 2003 04:22pm | #4

   Venicia,

   Thanks for your reply.. Sounds like you have used the TT varnish oil before and had success with the product curing. Did you heat the oil before application or apply it straight out of the can?

   As far as the quality of the results (grain popability?) does the TT offer any advantage over the Minwax Tung oil finish or the mix your own BLO at 1:1?

1. 
   VeniciaL | Dec 31, 2003 09:36pm | #7

   Bobabeui,

   I could not get T&T to work for me (several different batches, purchased at 2 different sources). No, I did not heat it. Heating is NOT part of the manufacturer's instructions and raising its temperature to the level described in the FWW article could not possibly accelerate polymerization. Yes, I applied it very thin and wiped it as dry as it is possible to do. As far as I'm concerned, it's a waste of time for me to try it again or to go through the description of its characteristics. There are so many other products and home-brews that do work. I find no advantages to the T&T product. It is expensive and its non-toxic hype is just that. Any cured finish is non-toxic (with exception of lead-containing products which really don't exist anymore).

   I have found Minwax Tung Oil Finish a dependable and predictable product. It is a mixture of unknown ratios of BLO, a varnish of some type and solvents. I don't think it has any tung oil. It's no better or worse than a home brew or many other similar products. These oil/varnish mixtures are very forgiving in their ratios of ingredients. It's convenient and available. But it must be used fresh. I find that its characteristics change significantly once opened, so that a 2-week-old opened can is not useful for me.

   I can get a very durable, thin-film, high-gloss result with it, or rub it down with 0000 steel wool for a satin finish. I usually apply 4 coats, AT LEAST 48 hours apart. After the 2nd coat, I use steel wool as the applicator, sometimes 400 grit wet/dry carborundum paper, depending on the wood I'm finishing.

   I don't wipe the final application as completely dry as the previous ones, but use a "french polishing" motion with a barely-damp cloth, rolled up as a "rubber," leaving a "wet looking" surface. It's very hard to describe this last action. It's something that has to be experienced to find the amount of finish in the rubber that's just right. There's not much finish in the cloth and it takes a bit of pressure to force it out onto the surface. The rubber is almost dry and as the finish is forced out, the almost dry cloth polishes it, leaving a very thin film that looks "wet" but dries almost as fast as it's put down. I can gently run a finger over it right away and it doesn't "smear" or grab. It dosen't change appearance as it hardens, remaining quite glossy. If this doesn't seem to be working, it's because I haven't let the previous coat(s) harden enough. So I wipe it down and wait another few days before trying again.

   There is a major jump in the quality of the surface with coats 3 and 4, then little, if any improvement after. In fact, I can't tell if any additional material gets deposited after 4 coats.

   VL

2. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 01, 2004 01:43am | #11

   VL,

   Thanks for your time and advice..

   Have a happy new year..

2. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 31, 2003 12:10am | #2

   I use the store brand boiled linseed oil 1:1 with thinner and a shot of Japan drier for an oil undercoat to make the figure pop.  It cures quicker, but watch the rags for spontaneous combustion.  I did a touch-up with this brew and a paper towel and it started smoldering on the garage floor in 20 minutes or so.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 31, 2003 04:29am | #3

   That is a real good choice. I have used a mix like that for a long time..my mix is 1 qt. BLO, 1 pt. turpintine ( not turpene) or L. O. Min. spirits...about a cap full of jap drier. too much drier will delay...and weaken the final hardness, I have found.

2. 
   BOBABEUI | Dec 31, 2003 04:22pm | #5

   John,

   Thanks for your help..

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 31, 2003 09:11pm | #6

   I know they don't boil linseed oil any more.  Does anyone know what chemicals are added to modern day so-called BLO and in what proportions? 

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

3. 
   RMillard | Dec 31, 2003 11:12pm | #8

   I use the Tried and True Danish oil under shellac, with no problems whatsoever . The varnish oil is thicker, but I really can’t see why it wouldn’t work just as well. I think the problem that most people have the varnish oil is that they treat it like a film finish. The varnish oil, since it lacks driers, can’t be applied, leaving any residue on the surface. The amount of oil applied to “pop” the grain wouldn’t cause this problem. I stay away from boiled linseed oil on walnut, since the oil has a tendency to turn dark with age, and walnut furniture lightens with age. The Tried and True oils, don’t seem to exhibit this same tendency, to darken the wood.. You didn’t ask for this, but try a sample of your walnut with some orange aniline dye, then oiled, followed by some de-waxed dark shellac. The color this method gives is outstanding, especially on kiln dried wood.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Jan 01, 2004 01:41am | #10

   Rob,

   Thanks so much for your advice.. I will give it a try.

   Have a happy new year..

4. 
   Floss | Jan 01, 2004 12:23am | #9

   BOBABEUI,

   I think seedlac shellac looks great on walnut. No oil to worry about. However I do use oil on walnut at times but in a 2:1 ratio of oil to turpentine with a capful of japan drier. Try some seedlac on a scrap, after 2 or 3 coats you might like what you see.

   J.P.