Replies

1. 
   user-7624188 | Aug 24, 2021 04:42pm | #1

   I have built a similar blanket chest with lipped drawers. Perhaps I am misunderstanding, but you would build the drawer front as you would any other inset drawer fit to the opening. You can make the face of the drawer flush or proud of the case. Then you just plane down a profile around the drawer.

   I do not think that you can be sloppy fitting the lipped drawer if it is proud of the case, but you can be a little sloppy if the drawer is flush or inset to the case. The lip will help soften any gaps.

   Also. I am by no means a Shaker expert, but I have not seen many Shaker furniture pieces with lipped drawers. My understanding is that the Shakers would deem a lipped drawer an unnecessary embellishment.

   You could just stick with classic Shaker stylings and not lip the drawer front? I wish that I would have not lipped the drawer on my blanket chest.

1. 
   weymouth2 | Aug 24, 2021 05:03pm | #2

   thanks. I'm definitely leaning towards the no-lip. I don't really understand the benefit of the lip. I guess that's why I posted. No-lip seems simpler and cleaner (and to your point, more in tune with Shaker style)

2. 
   john_c2 | Aug 24, 2021 07:18pm | #3

   Fully inset drawers are more finicky, when done right. There should be a consistent gap around the drawer or door front, and your eye will know if the gap is off or wavy.

   The lipped drawer front is traditional to many styles. Most of the Queen Anne and Chippendale era furniture had lipped drawers. They are more forgiving, since there is no gap to see.

   The moulding, called a thumbnail, extendsaround the entire drawer front. But there is only a rabbett on the top and 2 sides. The part that protrudes is pretty thin, only a quarter inch total. The ovolo is 3/16 and slightly elliptical, not just a quarter round. And that ovolo is set about 1/16th below the face.

   That leaves a full half inch on the sides of the drawer fronts to dovetail the sides. Plenty of room.

   Lipped or not lipped really depends on the style of the piece. All of the original Shaker blanket chests I've seen have lipped drawers. But that doesn't mean you have to.

3. 
   jim_hall | Aug 24, 2021 10:07pm | #4

   The actual plan sheet for the chest shows the drawer front 13/16" thick which includes 1/4" thumbnail profile. That leaves 9/16" for the dovetail pins. Pretty much what John C2 described above.

1. 
   weymouth2 | Aug 24, 2021 10:41pm | #5

   Thanks to you both. I wasn’t seeing how the rabbets and thumbnail profile worked but got it now. Makes sense.

4. 
   rob_ss | Aug 25, 2021 03:26am | #6

   Lipped drawers have a big advantage in climates where there is a lot of wood movement. You can make the drawer carcase slightly loose so it will never bind. The lip also gives a seamless look with no gaps; and adds interest to the piece by casting shadows. It also gives the opportunity to show off molding techniques if desired.
   If you don't like them though, there is no need to use - there are no hard and fast rules in woodwork. I've been agonising over whether to use a half-rounded profile on a window muntin. I like it but it's not traditional. Wife says - "It's your door - if you like it, build it your way" - one thing on which we agree!

5. 
   weymouth2 | Aug 25, 2021 09:29am | #7

   In case anyone stumbles upon this thread in the future, this is a great article:

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/07/26/2-options-for-lipped-drawers