Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 05, 2010 11:53pm | #1

   Since it is stronger than the bonds of the wood fibers (virtually all the wood glues are), it may not matter which glue is technically the strongest. Unless the bench is going to be in a very humid workshop (RH 70% or above) -- not good.

   There are some interesting articles out there comparing strength of hot hide glue, liquid hide glue, other glues, etc. But it seems the real advantage of hot hide glue is the ability to really vary the open time and gel time depending on how you mix it. Cool stuff, that!

   Here's an article that compares liquid to hot hide glue under different humidity conditions:

   http://cool.conservation-us.org/coolaic/sg/wag/1990/WAG_90_buck.pdf

   General info and mixing ratios to achieve specific grades of glue.

   http://mfds.org/thetechnicalsideofanimalhideglue.aspx

   Personally, I like it's ability to adhere "rubbed joints" and how easy it is to reverse when needed. :-)

2. 
   Rich14 | Feb 06, 2010 08:27am | #2

   Doc,

   I learned woodworking at a time when hide glue, both hot and liquid forms were the mainstay of furniture manufacture. Getting glue pots started was one of the first things we did in the morning. There was occasionally a squeeze bottle of that "Elmer's Glue All stuff" (white glue) around that was relegated to cheap and dirty projects, and was looked on as junk.

   Furniture made for hundreds of years with all kinds of hide glues have joints that will last as long or longer than joints made with any other kind of glue.

   The fact is that any kind of glue you can obtain commercially, when used correctly, in a properly-fitting joint will create bonds that are stronger than the wood itself. It's your ability to make the joint that matters. Not the glue.

   If you want really long open times, try a polyurethane glue such as Gorilla Glue. It's my favorite, next to hot hide glue. It's the complete opposite to hot hide glue in that it has a very long working time and the joint must be clamped for at least 4-8 hours, if not a full 24 hours. I really like the fact that glue squeeze out can be wiped away (before it has become firm) with acetone, leaving the wood looking pristine-clean with absolutely no staining, absorption, swelling or grain raising.

   Rich

3. 
   danmart | Feb 06, 2010 08:48am | #3

   Liquid Hide glue vs yellow glue. About the same. If you're willing to invest in your open question try ordering some liquid hide glue in a bottle from Patrick Edwards in Calif. His product is called Olde Brown Glue. I have it in my shop at all times. Every chair I have made or repaired has been done with hide glue(hot and cold). The stuff is great.

   Why use OBG? It is made in small batches and Pat controls the quality. If you met him, you would appreciate his attention to detail and his commitment to making a high quality glue that is strong and very convenient. Its a little more expensive than yellow glue but its worth every penny in my view. Love the stuff.

   dan

4. 
   joinerswork | Feb 06, 2010 09:01am | #4

   doc,

   Liquid hide glue ought to work just fine for your project. Just be sure it is not too old.

   One shop I worked in, used hot hide glue for all its regular assembly work. For veneering, work put in the press got weldwood, and projects assembled at the bench needing longer open time, got put together with "Peter Cooper" glue ( a brand of liquid hide glue). One day, a bed standing in the finishig room was noticed to be drooling glue from the bottom of its mortises, several days after it had been assembled. The boss called the glue factory, and after some Q and A, it was determined that the 5 gal bucket of glue we'd been drawing from was several YEARS out of date. Though the glue was considerably cheaper by the gallon, I think that is what's called "false economy".

   Ray