Replies

1. 
   RickL | Feb 26, 2005 12:28am | #1

   Curious as to what you are using it for. The only time we use that joint is one a 3 sided box beam. For all other applications we wouldn't use that bit. For instance on a Craftsman style leg I would just use packing tape and roll it up or even a few biscuits. When we do use the bit we keep a sample to help set it up quickly again. I think CMT had a good guide to help set it up. You might check to see if that would work with the Freud bit. I've used the catalog diagram to approximate the line up and most of the time they should give a set up diagram to help. You try Freuds website?

1. 
   Spike1 | Feb 26, 2005 11:05pm | #2

   Yes, tried Freud--no joy. I am using the bit for the boxed inside of a newell post out of cherry. There will be overlaid edge molding and I would like to use it for that also but 1/2" is getting a little scary. I thought I would like to use the bit for blanket or toy boxes if the customer wanted them out of ply. I almost have the set up but it is like patting your head and rubbing your belly--every time I raise the bit a fraction the fence is slightly off. Thanks for the suggestion about the set up jig. Rockler has one also and it looks like it is close to the same profile. Thanks for response. Spike

1. 
   RickL | Feb 27, 2005 01:22am | #3

   Like I mentioned we only use it for 3 sided box beams. For square posts and boxes splines and biscuits are a much simpler way to go. Have you seen the articles in FWW and othe mags where they lay the mitered pieces on packing tape and roll it up.
   http://tinyurl.com/6vmw3
   MLCS makes a great clamp for doing this and it's reasonably priced.
   I've matched the lock miter to catalog pages like Amana as many use scale drawings for the bits. Personally I avoid the lock miter bit as much as possible. I don't get paid to take the long way in jobs.

1. 
   Spike1 | Feb 27, 2005 05:30pm | #4

   I love the Merle clamp--use it for every frame I build. Thanks for the suggestions. Spike

2. 
   haroldp | Feb 28, 2005 09:02pm | #5

   The easiest way to set up this bit is to set the height first. You need two scrap pieces of the wood you are trying to join. Label one piece A and the other B. Approximate the height of the bit by placing the bit against the stock and adjusting the bit. Don't worry about the fence position at this time. You are using the fence for stability at this point. Mark the face side of the stock. Route your pieces horizontally and then flip piece B and fit it into A. If it doesn't line up perfectly flat, adjust the bit up or down until it aligns perfectly.

   Now repeat the process with the stock routed vertically and make ajustments by moving the fence forward or backward. When you have alignment, your bit is perfectly centered. Now you can route your pieces.

   Actually the lockmiter bit is a great bit for joining the corners of small boxes. You don't have to worry with splines. I make wooden flyboxes out of 3/8" stock and it works very well in providing glue surface. Another benefit is that you only need to clamp in one direction.

   Hope this helps

   Harold

1. 
   Spike1 | Feb 28, 2005 09:46pm | #6

   Harold
   Thank you for the most concise and helpful explanation. I shall try it first thing tomorrow. Spike

1. 
   haroldp | Feb 28, 2005 09:59pm | #7

   You are welcome. Hope it works for you.Harold

3. 
   alanplanesaw | Mar 04, 2005 08:02pm | #8

   CONCERN !!!!

   A shaper isn't the best for a router bit.  A router uses smaller diameter bits and turns many times faster than a shaper.  A shaper turns much slower. 

   As a result you will not get the quality of cut you should get.  Router bits on routers and shaper bits on shapers.

   Obviously, as you know, you can put a router bit on a shaper.  And it will cut wood.  But not near the quality you would want.

   Alan - planesaw