Has anyone had repeatable success with the lock miter bit for the router?
Aside from the head ache that comes with the set up, I have another problem.
I can’t seam to avoid slight variation in pressure even when using the featherboard.As the stock is fed through, the purchase is reduced to a knife point and gives under constant pressure causing dips.
I am beginning to think this bit was a good “idea” and nothing more. For now Ill use the dominoes.
I am using the 99-034 2-3/4″ 1-5/32″ 45° 1/2″ 2-5/8″ Lock Miter Freud
Replies
Jig's the word.
I taught a intro to the router class and we used the lock miter bit (which I thought was pretty brave). Set-up took a while and a lot of test cuts, but once set up, my students who had virtually no experience were able to cut nice, clean joints.
How? Consistency was the key and I achieved it with a jig to hold the one piece vertically. We didn't have any trouble with the horizontal pieces. By the way, we were working with stock about 2-1/2" wide and 18-24" long. In the first picture, you are looking at the face that goes against the fence. The horizontal piece rides along the fence. The vertical piece behind it also rides against the fence, but also supports the workpiece upright and backs it up to minimize blowout. The workpiece fits between the two pieces. The other picture shows the jig from the opposite angle. The wide base provides lots of stability and a good grip. Also, it makes it very hard to put your hand into the cutter.
The students were impressed with the jig. I was impressed by their results.
Did you use a miter gauge for the horizontal piece?
A jig is a good Idea, although mine would have to be a bit different. I am joining side grain to side grain hence the feather board. The stock is an inch thick, this time, 4 inches wide and 18 long. So, the cut has to be consistent through the entire length. Maybe not what the bit was intended for? Ill will see if I have better luck with an end-grain joint.
It seems that, even with setup blocks, getting the bit in the right position is trial and error. Seems finicky to me but, might be the only way.
Thanks for the idea btw.
--Cary
No miter gauge
Cary,
I've never liked miter gauges and router tables. I remember now that we used a simple square backer block with a handle on top to push the stock through, face-down on the table. One thing the jigs do is help minimize the pressure applied to the sharp corner - the jig bears the force and the point survives. I don't see any reason your set-up shouldn't work. You will need to keep the stock firmly against the table though.
Trial and error is right. There is no easy way. If your corners are crumbling, you might set the bit so it leaves a little flat spot. You can correct that later. It might be worth your while to check the instructions on the Lee Valley site. There might be some little trick in there that could help you.
Doing a jig.
EDIT: Somehow, I managed to post the previous message twice - once with pictures and once without. I'd delete this copy if I could, but I can't so this is what you get.
I use a Lock-Miter bit in a table top router... Mine is a Whiteside about the same size as yours.
I mostly use mine on cabinet grade plywood.. NOT ALL plywood is flat.. Even if very expensive plywood!
I 'think' the vertical support is most important.. I use feather boards and what ever i can come up with...
For smaller things the edges are about perfect.. I mostly make larger things... I do think the lock-miter is a wonderful bit even with it's short-comming of the wood..
I do admit, I NEVER make sharp corners... Dangerous for little children and drunk adults.... I sand the corners a 'bit' and they seem to come out perfect...
I will also admit I was never afraid of that spinning bit when I was much younger.. At my old age, I am a bit more afraid of that bit...
My goal was to be able to make sharp corners. I like to have the grain flow around them. Backing off the bit a little would give the stock more purchase against the fence. Maybe I will plane the stock a little thick, run it with blunt corners as you do, and then clean up the corners. But, that may be complicating things. I'll try again when I am less frustrated.
Thanks for the input all.
--Cary
Shaper w/ Power Feed
I used to make the lock miter joint when fabricating hollow newel posts but never with a router. My tool of choice for this operation would be a shaper with power feeder.
The beauty of the joint is the easy glue up and it automatically squares itself up. After sanding the seam disappears and the posts look like they are solid one piece of wood.
Best of luck with the router,
Bret
That sure would be ideal. I bet those were some strong posts.
What bit did you use? My shaper does not have a chuck as my router does. I assume yours was the same.
Maybe i can find an after market chuck for the shaper.
the bit was too expensive to give up now.
Long grain to long grain
I used a lock miter joint 8 inch wide and 9ft long 7/8" ash boards to wrap post's on a rebuild of a 1908 restoration porch for the Kenosha light house keepers house. The set up was a pain and the router bit was the same as yours but made by skil and only cost $30 odd dollars. Yeah it was a pain in assembling the 4 9ft boards using titebond 3 and the small gaps you are have been talking about were nullified with using lots of clamps and considering all the edges of the wrap were getting a 1/8" radius to ease the edges. This construct has proven itself over the last 2 years as there have been no opened joints and no water penetration. Considering this porch restoration is no more than a couple hundred yards from the shores of Lake Michigan and the winters are harsh along with such close proximity to water, I couldn't be happier. On smaller pieces where where I need the knife edge and no deformation I run a test piece and simply cut a strip from the test piece and glue to a throw away fence so that it matches the cut on exiting the cutter and hey presto you now have a sharp angle when joined. or another way to achieve the same result is to cut the joints as usual and assemble but using slightly over thicker wood and then plane down to correct thickness and you will achieve knife edge without gaps and no wasting time building jigs if you only need a small number of parts.
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