Replies

1. 
   Toolman51 | May 11, 2010 04:00pm | #1

   Lock miter shaper cutter

   I do have a tablesaw tenoning jig, and my shaper table has a miter slot.  I will take a look at how the tenoning jig might work with the shaper.  I think I will have to mount the shaper cutter very near the top of the spindle in order for the tenoning jig to pass over the spindle during the cut.  Thanks for the idea.

2. 
   piker | May 11, 2010 04:45pm | #2

   I bought a carbide lock miter bit for my router table years ago & used it to make (2) oak podiums for a customer. They came out OK, but a real pain in the butt to get set up - had to make numerous test cuts to get it right. Been in a drawer ever since.

3. 
   BruceS | May 11, 2010 05:30pm | #3

   Check the bottom of your tennoning jig.  Some of them have a couple of mounting locations for the slider bar.  Moving it may get you to a good position.

4. 
   robertmc | May 11, 2010 11:10pm | #4

   LOCK MITER

   I have used a lock miter for creating square columns for porches, staircases and other box-shaped structures where a "miter look" is beneficial.  Attached are two different illustrations and instructions that might help.  It is very important in cutting the verticle-cut piece to have a suitably high fence as well as maintaining constant, firm pressure on the wood against the cutterhead.  This can be done with a featherboard but I have used auxiliary fences that hold the wood tight as any warpage or play will make the resulting joint open and not tight.  I found this to be especially important when using the lock miter to cut extra long pieces of wood such as used in porch columns.  Getting the set up takes a bit of trial and error so I always cut extra pieces planed to the same thickness and from the same wood as my finished piece.