I’m looking either at the PC 4212 dovetail jig or a locking miter/ drawer lock bit. I know the tradionalist will say dovetail but I’m looking at an easy joint and a strong joint. I think once setup the dovetail jig is fairly easy but the locking miter is fast.
I’ve heard some horror stories on setting up the locking bit but the sell a jig it to aid in set up. I know others will say it’s personal chioce. I guess on a drawer that will show the joint a dovetail would look nicer.
Thanks Jeremy
Headstrong, I’ll take on anyone!
Edited 9/3/2008 10:05 pm ET by Jemcon
Replies
Jeremy,
Your first paragraph pretty much says it all. I haven't heard of any difficulties setting up the lock miter, but I haven't had to yet either. Another bit you can look at is called a "drawer lock bit".
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I'd also consider the size of the drawer, what the contents will be, and whether it's on bearing glides of some sort.
The drawers on the one cabinet will be about 5-6" deep and be on roller glides mounted either bellow or on the side. I guess when I make my new fly tying desk with exposed drawers I will use dovetails. I think red oak drawers with showing dovetails will look good on the desk. In the meantime I guess the drawer lock or a simple rabbit will work. Thanks Jeremy
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
I just tried a lock bit for the first time. Amazingly, I hit the right set up the first time (Lee Valley's accompanying sheet gives you two ways to measure). I tried it on 1/2" fir ply. Although the joints fit extremely well, the bit blew out the ply wherever there was a weakness. Now I'd only use it on solid wood.
JIMBELL
I scribe the show line with a cutting gauge and it eliminates the splintering.
Jim,I've made many a drawer and box of plywood using the lockmitre cutter. It's possible to make them in 1/2" plywood but no thinner. As you mention, blown out lumps will occur with cheaper sheets. However, a good birchply or similar will cut smoothly and cleanly.The bottom can also be cut with the lockmitre, so that the tongues of the bottom panel are horizontal and therefore prevent the bottom falling out, should the glue fail. Similarly, the tongues of the joint in the front and back panels should be oriented so that the front or back cannot be pulled off the sides.Of course, the glue will not fail and, there being such a large area of glued surfaces, the plywood drawer or box is immensely strong. The corners and bottom edges, if the joint is well-made, present as seamless right-angled edges.The lock mitre joins will show only on the top corners of a drawer. When the piece required it, I have used slim edges of matching solid timber (birch if I can get it, otherwise maple) to hide the lockmitre joins. These edges can be mitred on the corners and in the event of a good grain match between ply and solid edges, it becomes much less obvious that plywood is involved.Such drawers are neat but lack the aesthetic appeal of the traditional DT, which better-suits furniture that is not wholly utilitarian. On the other hand, drawers that will be used and abused (opened and shut many times a day whilst filled with heavy stuff) might benefit from the strength of the lockmitred plywood build. Lataxe
Rabbet, glue, and brads on 1/2" BB have never failed. Even for heavy stuff. DT's are a dead issue, like F&P doors.
It's the 21st century...
What's wrong with nails? But only ones made since year 2000.
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
Actually just nails, butted joints, and a dab of glue will be fine on drawers carried by metal slides. My shop utility drawers are made thusly and have been functioning without complaint since 1978. Those particular drawer boxes are made of cdx ply. The cases are particleboard by the way, similarly constructed although I used several dabs of glue. When using modern day ball-bearing drawer glides, strength of construction is simply not an issue. That still doesn't negate the desire by some to dovetail their drawers. Aesthetics is, after all, the majority of what we artisans do. But if one asked me my opinion, or not, I think dovetails in any sort of plywood are, aesthetically, rather silly.
<<I think dovetails in any sort of plywood are, aesthetically, rather silly>>I agree. I have however made finger joints with baltic birch which was appropriate for the project and pleasant to look at.Cheers,Peter
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
Only if they're 60D...
:-)
Better life through Zoodles and poutine...
"It's the 21st century"Yep. I'm letting my subscription expire, selling my tools, and switching over to Fine CarbonFibering. ;-)
We'll I guess I'll spend the money on a Kreg pocket screw setup. I think that will be more useful. Thanks to all. Jeremy
Headstrong, I'll take on anyone!
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