Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 07:36pm | #1

   I've been contemplating getting one of the lock-miter bits too and have had conversations with a couple of people who have used them.  Have also had some similar set-up challenges using a drawer lock corner bit.  There's no doubt it takes considerable time to get either of these bits set up the first time for a given thickness of stock, but once it's done, a set-up block can be made for that thickness and kept handy for the next project.

   Multiple passes with the lock-corner bit aren't a problem, and they shouldn't be a problem with the lock-miter bit.  The trick is to have a solid stop for your fence at the appropriate spot on the table for the final cut.  With my clamped-on fence and steel router table top, once I find the desired final position of the fence, I set a clamp up against the back of the infeed end of the fence (or slap a big magnet there).  Then, leaving the outfeed end of the fence clamped to the table, I loosen the holding-clamp on the infeed side and pivot the fence toward the bit for the first pass.  Then do the other passes until the fence bumps up against the stop, for the final pass.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 13, 2003 07:44pm | #2

   PS: 

   • Some companies sell set-up blocks to go with their bits.
   • One of the best set of instructions I've seen for setting up LMBs is in The Woodworker's Choice catalog (TWC), on the page that shows the bit.
   • The main advantage of the LMB is the additional strength it lends to miter joints.  You're using loose tenons now?  What advantage would the LMB give you? What types of projects would you use it on?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/13/2003 12:46:44 PM ET by forestgirl

1. 
   Jeff | Jul 14, 2003 01:18am | #3

   FG

   Any Website?

   Jeff

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 14, 2003 09:03am | #5

   Yep, their website is http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com 

   I couldn't get in there tonight, so don't know if the set-up instructions are there or not.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   PelhamPete | Jul 14, 2003 06:43pm | #6

   Hi All,

   I just had to share this experience with you- I am trying to get set-up instructions/tips for the 45 degree lock miter bit ... went to woodworkerschoice.com (thanks ForestGirl! ;-)), went to the link for Oldham (Viper) Router Bits- emailed their customer service for info on setting up this bit and, within 2 minutes(!!!!) I had gotten an email response from them (and it was NOT one of those automated "We have received your request and someone will get back to you within ...").

   I am stunned ... absolutely stunned.  Very cool! :-)

   An aside- according to a blurb on their website, it says that Viper bits won first place in a side-by-side competition with, I believe, 17 other companies offerings (I think that the competition was done in 1999).  I was under the impression that Whiteside router bits were always the winner in these sorts of things (competitions).  Me-be-wrong-again!

   -Peter T.

1. 
   TomPritchard | Jul 15, 2003 06:32am | #12

   I believe the comparison article that you are referring to was in the August 1999 issue of Fine WoodWorking. In there they compared 17 different router bits, and the Whiteside bit did finish first. The Oldham/Viper bit finished 3rd.

2. 
   Strongbow | Jul 14, 2003 08:20pm | #7

   I'm looking at a single set up operation for machining all four sides. from square.

   Providing all the box sides are the same length (well the two pieces opposite each other, and the same thickness, you would be looking at some time saving, plus the accuracy should theoretically, be better and repetative.

3. 
   Shep | Jul 14, 2003 04:19am | #4

   STRONGBO1-- I have just used a lock miter bit for the first time this last Friday. I needed to make some boxes/columns for a high-end job, so I tried it. It took me about 45 min. to set up ( and a lot of head- scratching ), but it works great and the glue-ups are a breeze. I intend to use it again soon  for some mission-style furniture I've promised my wife (I won't tell you how long ago I promised her this furniture<G>)

1. 
   Strongbow | Jul 14, 2003 08:30pm | #8

   I see it looks straight forward to machine one joint flat on the table but,

   How did you hold the stock against the fence for the second part of the joint ( this seems to be the hardest operation?)?

   Did you make a jig, or use side pressure blocks?

1. 
   parrothead | Jul 14, 2003 09:52pm | #9

   In the past when I used the lock miter bit I had to use duble stick tape and tape a piece along the top edge that run againts the fence. The bit remove wood along the top edge and you can't just run it against the fence. Attached is a PDF instruction from MCLS for their bits.

   MikeWe are the people our parents warned us about. J. Buffett

   
1. 
   Strongbow | Jul 16, 2003 12:25am | #14

   Thank's for that info....

   I will sit up in bed tonight and digest it...

   ( yep I will even forgo that beautiful, naked blond of a wife that sleeps next to me, to sort this bloody joint out!!!!!!!)

   Some times you have to do what a man has to do, for the sake of woodworking!!!

   Thank's again

2. 
   Shep | Jul 14, 2003 11:05pm | #10

   STRONGBO1-- I ran the verticle piece thru with hold-ins keeping pressure against the fence. I ran each piece thru 2 times to make sure I got a clean cut. Once I got the set-up right , everything went easily. I have the Bench Dog large router table with cabinet, which also includes their finger board hold-downs. I highly recommend their products - they work great!

3. 
   stancalow | Jul 15, 2003 01:46am | #11

   Strongbo1

   I asked pretty much the same question last week in the Joinery forum.  I've been trying to work with a lock miter bit for some time.  I also had trouble getting the vertical pieces to  stay stable ong enough to cut straight.  That big fat bit has too much torque going at full speed, and wants to twist the vertical piece in three different directions.  All the information, espeically the daigaram are helpful.  What I learned here was that it is helpful to have a very tall fence, and a slower router speed. 

   It took me a while to realize that if you are making something that will hang on a wall (shadow box or frame, for example), you need to cut the two vertical sides in a vertical position, to get the "male" profile on their ends, to best support the load.  If you look at the two profiles a while, you'll see what I mean. 

1. 
   Strongbow | Jul 16, 2003 12:35am | #15

   I have tried this evening to perfect a good joint.

   The wood must be perfect and knot free, especially on hard wood, or you stand no chance.

   I agree with the forces being applied, and I must admit, that I wore extera body and eye armour while pushing the verticle pieces through. (just in case)

   The big problem I found was the fence adjustment.

   My fence does not have fine adjustment and it makes it harder to fine adjust, the cut.

   At this moment in time the only thing I can say is that I have at least tried to use it.....whether I do so in the future will depend if I can get the set ups sorted out.

4. 
   jagwah | Jul 16, 2003 12:18am | #13

   Just a tip- I've used the lock mitre set up quite a lot. My first time using it though took me almost 30 minutes to set up. Just as I started to remove it I had an epiphanies. I ran two more pieces to use the next time as set up blocks. The next time the set up took 3 minutes.