Hi
Here is my latest acquisition…a brand new (at least for me) Beaver 6 inches jointer !!!
I think that with a little love, this thing going to work great !!!
Bob in Sherbrooke, province of Québec
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Replies
Oh and did I mentionned I paid 60$ cdn, that is about 40$ us.....
Bob,
A little love! :)
Really, any new toy is a great toy.
My benchtop drillpress is a 45 to 50 year old Rockwell/Delta.
Enjoy, Roy
It pains me to see a piece of equipment in that type of condition, but I’m sure you’ll give it a good home and bring it back to where it should be. Don’t forget the pics after your done.
Good Luck,
RickL
How do you plan on resurfacing the tables? I ask, because I have a little rust removal to do on a 6" Delta jointer I salvaged that has seen better days.
All my powertools are old (so am I!).
I recently reconditioned a Delta 6" jointer that had been used (and abused) in a school shop, then stored in a poorly vented building for years. A solid machine complete with a cast iron base/stand.
Also rescued a Delta floor model drill press with a foot feed that had been stored in a leaky barn for years. (The foot feed mechanism alone weighs 90 lbs.) It was covered with rust, and nothing moved.
Both machines now look and perform like new.
To restore working surfaces, I spray with WD-40, then sand with 400 grit wet/dry paper supported with a flat block and lubricated with WD-40.
To restore function, I completely dissassemble, remove rust with WD-40 lubricated soft wire brush and/or 400 paper, repair as needed, then reassemble, lubricate, adjust.
To restore appearance, I first mix a matching color(s) enamel (I like Rustoleum), then strip the the parts and repaint before reassembly. Usually requires some artistry to retore the various logos and markings, but I think it's worth it.
Works for me!
Wil
Wil's procedure above is excellent, but if its' really gross, use the ROS or palm sander with 220 then follow Wil. Clean that baby right up.
Enjoy, Roy
I'm amazed because I somehow came up with the right way of doing it all on my own. I grabbed a can of WD-40 and some 400 grit paper with a sanding block, and started on the outfeed table. It took a lot of WD-40 and paper, but I got it looking pretty good. The reason I asked about technique was that I figured that there had to a faster or better way. Then you tell my I was doing it right all along. Sometimes I just need to trust my instincts. Better get started on that infeed table now. I think a little work with the ROS will speed things up a little.
Hey, with a little WD40 and a roll of duck tape you can conquer the world!!!
;-)Windy Wood
From the Helderberg Mountains
Cool Steve,
Another idea is if your not done with the job but done for the day spray the sucker with WD40 and leave it for the night. It may be alittle sticky when you get back to it but more WD and sandpaper will cure that.
Enjoy, Roy
I
I begun last night to dismantle the jointer. The pins on wich the fence slide were a wee bit rusty, but with a hammer and some persuation, I was able to remove the thing. The body of the jointer will be a joy to clean. I tried a small spot with a angle grinder with a wire brush, and it cleaned right to the metal. Dont worry, I wont use the brush on the table nor the fence. Does anybody know of some clear protecter for metal parts ?? I strongly beleive that this machine, along with my Beaver scroll saw, where never painted, and I would like to keep them as original as I can.
Thanks
Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec
Bob: WOW you sure found some nice tools.. I really like the scroll saw..
ToolDoc
As to protecting the metal I don't know of any coating as such. To reduce the possibility of rusting I use a gel-like product called SLIPIT which I use on everything from my saw top, jointer tables and plane parts, irons and all. Doesn't really coat the surface but is abrorbed into it. You should be able to find it at Woodcraft, Rockler or some such.
Works great!
(:-)
Windy Wood
From the Helderberg Mountains
Good news to all, I'm almost done with the jointer.
I took it apart and I brushed every piece of it on a fine wire brush mounted on the lathe. Then I sprayed some Tremclad Clear Paint on metal surfaces, except tables and fence. Then I took apart the head, cleaned the bearing in gas and put some new grease on. I also greased the fence slides, the table up and down slides, and the ajustement knobs. Only thing that remain is building a new base, and here we are!!
I should be able to post pics soon.
Thanks to all
Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec
Finally, here are some pics of the new jointer. And also some pics of thing I've done in the house. Enjoy !!
Bob in Sherbrooke, province of Québec
Bob,
Oh My!, now there's proof that no one can ever say that Old is too old. I had to go back to the original pictures again just to get the whole feel. That jointer has soooo much class/style. Makes ya not want to get it dusty huh! How's it work?
I gotta go to more yard sales and flea markets!
Really nice projects too! Love this hobby!
Enjoy, Roy
Love the blade guard! :) Edward
Bob,
Hey man- nice work both on the jointer and in your home!
I am a bit late in this topic but will share some of what I learned while restoring my old Barton 8 inch jointer. BTW, if anyone has info about Barton I'd appreciate it (a plate on the side of the jointer says: Manufactured by Palmer D. Weeks, 401 S.W. 1st Ave Portland, OR). Doubt if same still exists. My jointer must be at least 50 years old?
Anyway, I tried the WD 40, sandpaper, block plus elbow grease method but soon found that this technique, while removing rust well, only added to errors of flatness in the beds and fence. So, I switched to using a large DMT diamond stone (coarse) and my waterstones. The DMT stone use method soon shows where low spots in the beds/fence are and the waterstones give a nice shiny polish.
I must admit though that my elbows wore out before I achieved perfect flatness using this method. But it sure made a difference in the accuracy of the old jointer. Maybe in a few months I will have another go at flattening- after a few doses of Celebrex and purchase of two elbow braces ;+).
sawick
I'll work with it this weekend, and I'll tell you more monday. Next tool in the shop is a dust-collecter and a small planer......
And I have some option over a Beaver 8 inch table saw, original with guard and fence.....could complete my collection of old machines...
Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec
Barton jointer history
"... my old Barton 8 inch jointer. BTW, if anyone has info about Barton I'd appreciate it (a plate on the side of the jointer says: Manufactured by Palmer D. Weeks, 401 S.W. 1st Ave Portland, OR). Doubt if same still exists. My jointer must be at least 50 years old?"
sawick,
your jointer is only the second 8" (besides mine) from this manufacturer. I have learned a fair amount about the company, dates, prices, who made these machines, etc. If you're still watching these message boards after all these years, feel free to send me an e-mail to 9watts *at* gmail.com.
Reuben Deumling
Steve,
Another good way to be rid of rust is Navel Jelly and steel wool. That stuff is like magic. You can get it at practically any hardware store too.
Steve
Your a better man than I Gunga Din!! Much luck..would love to see an "after" picture. Brian
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