I have a drill press now that I paid $120 a few years back and now I want to get something better. I’m making rossetes with a 2″ cutter and am having trouble. It’s on slow speed so that ain’t it. There is I believe it’s called runout in the quill. Whenever I put and type of bit or cutter in the chuck I can see a bit too much movement from side to side. When I lower the roseete cutter in to the stock it will sometimes make a chattering noise and the circular cut will not be smooth all around but instead slight gouging.
I have a buddy that’s going to the city early next week and he offerd to bring me a new one so I don’t have to pay for freight. There is a tool stor there that I like and sells Delta &General Intl. drill presses.
Can someone tell me what they think of the Delta drill presses? I see on their website that they have some fancy and new drill presses out.
Thanks kindly
Paul
Replies
Dear Paul,
I generally think fairly poorly of Delta equipment, but in this case, i might consider them. "General" tools that are made in Canada are clearly superior to Delta, but at quite a price. "General International" tools tend to be a bit overpriced in the Asian import category. Given the choice between GI & Delta drill presses, I might just flip a coin. I have a Jet 16" floor model which is pretty good. (The built in light is great!) Let's see who else chimes in.
Best,
John
""General International" tools tend to be a bit overpriced in the Asian import category." Whether they're overpriced or not depends on whether the quality is a cut above the lesser priced ones. I'm not saying they are, or they aren't -- have only had hands-on experience with their contractor saw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Dear Jamie,
"General International" tools tend to be a bit overpriced in the Asian import category." As you point out, the quality of the "General International" is generally very good. My (rather poorly made) point was based upon my research and local availability of their jointers and planers. It would seem that in both categories there are better choices. In addition to that, my recollection is that "Fine Woodworking" reviews of different tool lines, has also made my point. .................. or perhaps I am wrong...... it wouldn't be the first time..........Best,John
I just got a new Powermatic press, but the fancy new one from Delta was actually my first choice, based on features. I only got the Powermatic because it was in stock, I am a Powermatic fan, and it of course also has great features. Shorter stroke than the Deltas, though. If you end up with one of the new 1 hp Deltas, with or without the digital readout, let me know how you like it so I can live vicariously through you! Based on the research I've done, you should be very happy with one.
I have no idea about the Delta but I'm sure I saw a review in one of the woodworking mags that rated the new one as a good tool. Maybe do a Google on Delta reviews or the tool of you preference?
Not sure about your drill press but some have an adjustment to take the slop out. See if you can find a wedge or setscrew and lock nut on yours.
Or maybe you just want a new one. I'm OK with that!
EDIT: I forgot to mention that you could also have a bad chuck, one of the jaws got damaged my a drill bit spinning, or the chuck not on the taper correctly.
Chuck up a small drill or hunk of metal rod that you know is straight and turn the quill by hand and see if you can see any runout. Do you have a dial indicator? If not sharpen a hunk of wood to a point or use a old knitting needle (something with a point) and clamp it on a block of wood for support and place it close to the bit but not touching it.. Most folks eyes can pick up very small movements (OK so you need good light).
Is it possible that your cutter is the problem? Just a thought. Good luck!
Edited 11/4/2007 9:01 am by WillGeorge
If you can actually see the bit wobbling from side to side, it may be that the chuck is not properly seated into its taper. Google "jacob chucks removal" for instructions on removing and reseating the chuck.
-Steve
I did some rossetes yesterday by raising the table so that the chuck had only a short distance to travel down. It worked fine. Whenever I lower the quill all the way down, grab the chuck hold by its tip and try to move it, it will have a bit too much play on it.
Paul
"I did some rossetes yesterday by raising the table so that the chuck had only a short distance to travel down. It worked fine. Whenever I lower the quill all the way down, grab the chuck hold by its tip and try to move it, it will have a bit too much play on it."
Ouch. Sounds like you need a new drill press. ;)
-Steve
When I say "too much play" I don't mean a bit lot. It's just that I'm very particular about everything and this "play" is in my opinion, more than I really want to see. Anyways, thanks for the vote to go and get me a new Delta. My buddy has offered to bring me a new drill press from the city wednesday coming, free of charge. Hey if I'm gonna do his rosettes and give him "a deal" on 'em, the least he could do is bring the drill press in his truck. One good turn deserves another I suppose. I'm after doing free carpentry jobs for him before and just asking for a thanks so I guess he wants to return the favour. Also, he has offered to gimme a few bucks for the current drill press.
Paul in Canada
If you can feel any side-to-side play with the quill extended, it's too much. It should require a dial indicator or something similar to even detect that there's play.
-Steve
Paul
You might run this one by John White in the experts section. He was the shop machine guru for FWW before he departed for a job in Vermont. He stays on line and responds fairly quickly to questions directed at him in the ask the expert section. The guy is very knowledgeable and he's done a bunch of reviews of machines when he was with FWW. Give him a shout it couldn't hurt.
I have a general floor model drill press in the school shop and 2 deltas at the house. I had to change the chuck on the older delta and this wasn't too tough to do. There are some good tips in this thread.
My input is cheap and quick: take a cup of water and place it on the table of the press. Turn the machine on and visually check the ripples in the water surface. Most of the old drill presses I have "tuned up" had troubles with the journals and they needed to be pressed out and replaced. Try to eliminate vibration before you zero in on the run out. The water/vibration check is also very useful when fine tuning your lathe. Keep that in mind.
later
I have a Delta table top DP and it had 'slop' in the spindle/quill. But there is an adjustment on the side that took it out when adjusted properly.
Check yours to see if it has that same adjustment. It should since 90+% of the DP's do.
"Can someone tell me what they think of the Delta drill presses?"
The main problem with the new Delta drill presses is for the most part, they do not exist yet. I did get a good look at the 17-959L which is shipping now and starting to arrive at stores and was impressed with its fit and finish. The table with its large insert and ability to tilt in two axis seems to be designed with woodworkers in mind. 4 7/8" spindle travel and the laser is hard wired in. The larger 20-950 with it's variable speed and six inch quill travel should be arriving soon. The 20-959LX has been delayed till next year. If the Delta's are not in stock my first choice would be the Steel City 20520 drill press. 6" of quill travel at a better price than the Delta.
Why not consider a press designed for woodworkers instead of machinists?
For cabinetmaking, boatbuilding or finish carpentry, a benchtop radial arm press mounted on a plywood stand with casters is a much better choice than a fixed machinist's press.
1) Has over twice the reach and drills angles soooooo much easier. Try to clamp a 7-foot workpiece to the table of a machinist press and tilt it some time. Or drill an accurate series of angled holes into the center of a panel 30" from the edge.
2) You can wheel it to the job and save steps.
3) It'd be my instant choice for your purpose for Reason 1 alone.
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_________________
Bob
Edited 11/4/2007 10:22 pm by BobSmalser
Paul,
I can agree with Bob and others concerning radial drill presses. They are truly one handy tool and sooo versitile. One nice plus is you can set it on a left angle, put it on low speed, insert a grinding wheel of your choice and even leather stropping wheels, and ya gots a tool grinding station for your hand tools.
Just my two cents.
Chris.
guys, I got a couple prices on two Delta drill presses and they are both $649. Bit pricey for me. I've decided not to buy one just yet as I rarely use my drill press. Gotta watch those bucks getting up this time of year. Besides I got a top Dewalt 18v drill coming in a few days and that's around $300. I'll probably look at getting a Delta dust collection system since they are cheaper than a drill press.
Paul
You can pick up a Rikon or Grizzly radial for around $225. In fact, the Grizzly is on sale right now for $195. I gots a Griz and it works great. The Rikon is a fine machne, too. They just upgraded to an articulated table, like the Griz. I wish they had done that five months ago. I would have gotten the Rikon, it has an internal depth stop which is way more accurate than the standard side mounted depth stop found on most DP's.
Good luck whatever you do,
Chris.
I concur with what Bob says about a radial drill press- much more versatile for woodworking purposes.
However, is the one he shows still available from Delta? That one looks reasonably substantial, unlike the flimsy pissants that I have seen on offer in the form of new models- these would have trouble doing rosettes without serious chatter....
Observe the means to clamp the quill on that Delta: "modern" drill presses on offer to woodworms now seem to avoid this mechnism: instead we have a screw pressing on the quill, which is a cheap and nasty way to go.
Hello Phil, I believe what you said about a screw pressing on the quill to "correct the play" is what my drill press has. On the left side there's a set screw which requires a flat head screw driver to move and around it is a nut. If I tighten it clockwise the quill has a hard time springing back upward. Is this the cheap stuff you were talking about?
Paul
Paul, if that screw and lock nut is the only means provided to lock or clamp the quill -yes.
The better engineered machines have a slit housing which can be tightened to clamp the quill or to remove any play- as in the Delta that Bob showed. Another preferred type is where the quill is clamped by two opposing collars with tapered ends.
The type where there is no means to clamp or tighten is the worst- this one has a stop collar on the rise and fall lever as in the Chinese machine pictured.Philip Marcou
Philip, your #'s 4 & 6 pictures are exactly what my drill press has. Do you consider that a bad thing or a good thing?
paul
Morning Paul..
After 35 years my shop now has the machines I want in place. I have a DP that has been very acceptable for 5 years and a great buy especially considering the price. It only comes up short IMO, in one area and that is length of quill travel. I've always wanted a 6" quill travel but would never pop for a machine that had it as the one's that did were not designed with a split head for adjustment down the road as industrial models are.
But... that has changed recently with a new company that introduced a line of tools that are well thought out by people that know what should be on a tool and the consequence of not putting it there.
So... my old DP goes up for sale and it will get replaced with a Steel City 17" DP with 6" quill travel and split head. It's my retirement present to myself even though the other press has preformed well....
Sarge..
The 6" travel is what sold me on the Steel City DP and I could not be happier!
Scott
I curious about what types of project might require 6" of quill travel? I'm looking at the SC 17" DP and the two new delta's: 17-959L and 20-950. The prices differences between these are about $460, $550, and $750. I've never owned a drill press so forking out $750 seems like a lot but it also appears to have almost every possible feature one could ever want. I just wonder if the 6" quill travel will every be a necessity. Any thoughts?- Lyptus
Not only that but given a need for 6" quill travel, does it have the nads to handle it? Of course the material in question may have an affect on it.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Good morning Lyptus...
"I curious about what types of project might require 6" of quill travel"..?
The vast majority probably won't require 6" quill travel or anywhere close. I have a 15" Rigid DP that has performed absolutely flawlessly and it's a very good press. No laser lights or other major bells and whistles, but great run-out.. quick speed change.. very reasonable quill (average).. and a flat table for clamping even though I added a larger table on top. Space technology is not necessary, IMO. :>)
But.... I have made 3 modern coffee tables I sold on consignment made from recovered beams that had slightly over 5" thick tops. The legs were attached with large dowels. 4 1/4" was was the depth here.
I have made a number of work-benches on request of friends that have 4" plus tops where the dog holes get drilled on the DP. I do them on two individual strips of those thick tops that also came from recovered beams I secured years ago when an old civil war warehouse was being torn down here in Atlanta.
My work-bench design puts a Veritas twin screw vice at one end and I have to drill through 4" plus legs to allow the screws to go through the thick legs on that end. The holes are pre-drilled before I saddle the entire frame up for the top to ride on.
So... perhaps most would "never" need 6" quill travel as I have never had to use a full 6" myself. But... but.. if I ever do and I had 6" travel, I drill without having to come up with clever ways to do it without the capability waiting to be used.
As with a set of hand held hold diggers that hang in my back shop on a wall collecting dust and rarely used.... when the call comes for a new mail-box post or fence-post..... the hole digger come out to strut their stuff in lieu of seeking alternatives. That's their sole purpose in life and like Delta Air Lines... if ya have em on hand "they're ready when you are"! ..
Good luck with your decision and BTW, I know where I would go with that one and you could probably guess on the first attempt. ha.. ha....
Sarge..
Paul, number 6 has a good clamp- the type that uses the tapered collars- this is okay. Number 4 has no means to clamp the quill-only a stop collar on the rise and fall lever (that small lever screw)- this type is not good.Slit or split housing is best.Philip Marcou
I've been looking for a drill press, too. I've looked at the Jet, Steel City, and Delta 950L and 959L models. I like the long quill travel of the Steel City model but the fit and finish of the Delta 959L appears superior to me. I also like the large table on the Delta model. Maybe the table is not an issue because it seems most woodworkers build their own anyway- with an adjustable fence. My question is, what are people's opinions of the 17" Delta 959L (3/4 hp) vs. the Steel City 17" drill press? Thanks,
Lyptus
Over here used Rockwell radials like mine are common and cheap. Cabinetmakers preferred them all through the 1950's and '60's.But the model I'll grab when I find one nearby is a Walker Turner radial arm press, a heavier machine.But these save so much time and effort over a machinist press, I'd buy a Grizzly and wait for a Walker Turner.
Edited 11/5/2007 1:25 pm by BobSmalser
I bought the Griz Radial and loved the features but the runout and 'play' with any travel was unaceptable. I ended up with the Steel City and it is a GREAT machine.
Scott
"I bought the Griz Radial and loved the features but the runout and 'play' with any travel was unacceptable."Runout and play compared to hand drilling? Because on boat and interior joinery parts that's what I'd be doing half the time without my radial. I'm not making aircraft parts and rarely need those kind of tolerances. I'd still probably buy the cheap Griz, shop around for an old Rockwell or Walker Turner, and sell the Griz.Taunton has a couple articles on radial arm presses right here:http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=28854http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=28902
Well, I can't speak to that one, but I did consider it. The Cost was too much for me. I wanted a variable speed, but in the end, for the money I decided I could live with belt changing. I went to a ww show here in STL, and discovered the Fisch. I had never looked at them close, but was impressed. Ended up buying it, and I still love it. No round out to speak of .002. Nice long handels and smooth action. It was meant to be a ww press, but my son used it on metal in his machine shop class in HS, and it held up fine. I would still reccomend it over a year later. Here is a link to my review.
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=804.1
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I picked a DELTA 20-950 http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18274 from Rockler in Buffalo on Saturday. It is a monster and I needed a chain hoist to lift the drill head onto the shaft.
It is rated 1hp, but the motor is about 50% bigger than my old, 1hp King press I just got fed up with. I haven't been able to stall the press yet, using my biggest forchner bit, but I'm sure its possible.
I am sure somebody is going to do a tool review and find something like it has .0001 runout or something, but we are dealing with wood, with is dimensionally indstable, so I can never understand that silliness.
So far, I'm pretty happy, especially since I saved about 33% vs. buying in Canada.
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