Hi all,
<!—-><!—-> <!—->
As my business grows I’m find myself with less and less time to sharpen (by hand) my planes and chisels. I’m planning on purchasing a “motorized” sharpener. I like the Tormak (what’s not to likeJ). In a recent FWW they reviewed the Varitas MK II and gave it “Best Overall”. Although I respect FWW’s opinion it’s still only one persons opinion.
<!—-> <!—->
Has any one had an opportunity to use the MK II. I would be very interested in what you think.
<!—-> <!—->
Thanks,
<!—-> <!—->
Jay
Replies
After reviewing the FWW review on motorized sharpeners, I went with the Tormek. I have no doubt that the Veritas MKII is great -- Veritas makes great products. I was not convinced, however, that the MKII is better than Tormek. The tormek seems, to me, to be a higher quality product. Plus, for about the same price, the Tormek is much more versatile. Attachments can be purchased to sharpen carving tools, jointer/planer blades, axes, etc.
I got the Tormek last week and am very pleased. It is very easy to set up and quick to use. I started with an old chisel that had been so badly abused I was debating whether to bother sharpening it at all. In just a few minutes, the back was ground perfectly flat (on the side of the wheel), the bevel was ground at 35 degrees, and it was honed razor sharp on the honing wheel.
Jay,
You'll still need to hand sharpen once the chisels are off the Tormek - the buffing wheel dubs over the edge and, while sharp, it cannot be used for paring/chisel work. I suppose that a plane blade sharpened by this method would work.
I'm a tradesman - all I use is a cheap 6" grinder, and old oilstone or waterstone (whichever I grab) and a bit of 1500# wet and dry or 2000# wet & dry glued to an old scrap of timber - I strop on a bit of softish wood (eg: Western Red Cedar) charged with the same cutting compound that Tormek use and recommend.
I'd suggest that instead of spending the money on a Tormek, you find someone locally that can show you how to sharpen by hand - it takes no more than 2 minutes when you know how. An old British tradesman would be ideal if you know of one locally.
Cheers,
eddie
I use a $59.00 el cheapo Delta 6" grinder with white wheels and a home made block and conduit rest, (1/2" conduit even with the centerline of the wheels, Ian Kirby style). It gives a perfect hollow grind. Final honing on the family heirloom hard white and black oil stones and it's off to work. The hardest part was getting the backs flat and polished, but you only do that once and it has to be by hand. I spend almost no time kepping my 25+ chisels and 15 hand planes, (including L-N's), in top condition.
I have never understood this obsession with fancy grinders, jigs and mystical incantations just to get a good edge on plane irons and chisels. Read what Krenov or Tage Frid have to say about sharpening, hell, Frid used a belt sander clamped in the sholder vice to grind his chisels! And we'd all like to do work like his and he was a very busy professional.
I'm with Napie. Would anyone like a Makita 9820-2 real cheap? Rather than white Arkansas, I use one of those large Norton India stones then a black Arkansas. India seems to cut faster and the larger size is sometimes needed. Old belts on a belt sander come in handy occasionally, too. It is the same abrasive material.Cadiddlehopper
JayM
As A Tormex owner I can honestly say they are fine but but not perfect, in my humble opinion the only really great way to finish sharpening anything is with the scary sharp method that I learned in Fine wood working..
Get the chisel (etc.) in good basic shape square flat and correct angle then use the scary sharp method to make it really fine!
I use the scary sharp method after the grunt work is done on the Tormex and if a drop of lint falls on the edge it's own weight cuts it perfectly in two..
Now that's sharp!
<G>
I have the Tormek, actually I went halves with another woodworker on the machine. It's a great machine especially when you have to resquare a plan iron or chisel edge. It still requires that you hone on waterstones or wet/dry paper to get the really sharp edge. Works good on turning tools and jointer knives, just so so on longer planer knives.
Ron
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled