Replies

1. 
   jeffs | Sep 07, 2005 08:06am | #1

   Have you looked at Lie-Nielsen?

    

   http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=mc_set

    

   their mortice chisels run about $50  each. I have not tried them but have a set of their paring chisels which seem good.

   JeffS

2. 
   BobLang | Sep 07, 2005 03:02pm | #2

   take a look at these:

   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-MORT.XX&Category_Code=TBMC

   well worth it.

   Bob Lang

   http://www.craftsmanplans.com

3. 
   DonStephan | Sep 07, 2005 07:56pm | #3

   Bought the Ray Iles mortising chisels from tools for working wood and found they work VERY well. Quite expensive based on the competition, but I think justified in this case.

1. 
   woodworker3301 | Sep 08, 2005 12:00am | #4

   I'm also looking for a mortising machine.   I've been using forstner bits and hand chisels to date.  My father gave me his bench top drill press.  Is a Mortising machine better than a Mortising attachment on a bench top drill press?

   Thanks for any advice.

1. 
   Steve50 | Sep 08, 2005 02:06am | #5

   I had a drill press mortise attachment and hand chisels are a better choice.  This was a complete waste of money and the hardware was not even heavy enough to use as a boat anchor. 

   Steve

1. 
   woodworker3301 | Sep 08, 2005 08:09pm | #6

   Have you tried one of the dedicated mortising machines?  I've always been hesitant to spend money on a tool that only does one job.

    

1. 
   steelhead | Sep 11, 2005 09:53pm | #21

   Woodworker3301,

   Delta's 14-651 dedicated mortiser does require a bit of tuning and tinkering (what worthy tools don't?), but once properly adjusted and with sharp chisels, does a great job.

   The drill press mortising attachments are difficult to adjust and not worth the time or hassle, IMHO.

   Drilling out the bulk of the material with a forstner bit and hand finishing the mortise walls and corners is usually faster and just as accurate if you only use the occasional mortise and tennon.

   If you plan on cutting lots of mortises, the dedicated machine will pay for itself in time saved alone.

   Now that I've had mine up and running for a while, I couldn't imagine my shop without it. I now design and build prmarily around mortise and tennon joinery, as this is among the strongest and longest-lasting of connections.

   There is another current post on adjusting and tuning mortising machines if you are interested...

   Hope this helps,

    STEELHEAD

   "The first rule of intelligent tinkering is to save all the pieces."

   - Aldo Leopold

2. 
   woodworker3301 | Sep 11, 2005 11:57pm | #22

   I've been primarily doing outdoor projects.  Adirondeck furniture, Picnic and Patio Table sets.  I'm planning some mission style projects this winter.  I'll look into the Delta tool you described.

   Thanks for your help.

   Woodworker3301

   Just Do It!

2. 
   jako17 | Sep 09, 2005 05:06pm | #7

   The difference is that a mortiser is based on an arbor press, a drill press isn't ,nuf said

3. 
   lilarry | Sep 10, 2005 02:35am | #8

   I have the Powermatic mortising machine. I purchased it to build half-lapped Ipe fencing in which the "field" is mortised into a  1 1/4" x 1 1/4" frame. There are about 100 mortises per section, and 6 sections. Then there are two gates which will be built the same way with 2 1/4" square frames. Trying for a medieval portcullis look to go with a stone wall.

    Anyway, we tried other approaches, including a bench-top mortiser...no comparison. We've been through a number of mortising bits, but the machine itself is a monster. It doesn't slow down even when mortising 2" deep  by 1/2 " wide mortise channels. The Ipe contains a lot of silica and after a few hours of use and a 4 or 5 sharpenings, the chisels have to be replaced because they are no longer in spec. Even if I never use the machine again it was worth it given all the other alternatives, most of which were attempted.

   As to the bench-top model, it just couldn't handle the wood - kept suffering and given that it was borrowed I didn't want to find myself burning out the motor.

   Also, and very importantly, the table setup on the Powermatic with the x y table and the massive clamp made an enormous difference. You know what it's like when you need a third hand. Well, for this stuff, (Ipe is very dense/ very heavy)  a fourth would have been even better.

   You know, I just read what I wrote and it sounds like I work for Powermatic. I don't. It's just that I don't do this for a living and I have little time in the shop as it is and the machine made the work pleasant again...besides when the neighbors come over and they see me using it, they think I know what I'm doing.

   One more comment on alternatives. We tried using a router. I have an Elu 3hp plunge model. It works, but it's tiring, the effort to position it at each mortise location is overly long. it's noisy and the Ipe dust produced, even with a vacuum cleaner attachment, was just horrible. Life is just too short.

   Of course now that I have the machine, I expect that I will be doing a lot more mortise and tenon joints...

   Just my opinion...

   Larry

    

4. 
   jazzdogg | Sep 10, 2005 05:14am | #9

   http://www.barrtools.com

   They make outstanding mortsing chisels!

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   BillyBobRockland | Sep 10, 2005 05:09pm | #12

   JD,
   I looked at the site and it appears the mortising chisels are of the large kind. Do they make a 3/8" that, perhaps, is not displayed on the site?

1. 
   jazzdogg | Sep 11, 2005 04:45am | #18

   BBR,

   The ones I used were a friend's - we were timber framing.

   Said they hold an edge very well - only claims they need sharpening once every three months!

   Couldn't hurt to phone or send an e-mail to Barr inquiring about smaller sizes; from what I've heard the proprietor is a really nice guy.

   Good luck,-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

5. 
   sailalex | Sep 10, 2005 02:45pm | #10

   To get back to your original question, I have a Hirsch mortice chisel (as well as bench chisels) and am very pleased with them. I am "Hirsch" man now. I got mine from Highland Hardware. Two Cherries is virtually the same chisel . I have heard some negatives about Sorby on this forum so you might do a search.I have found Hirsch to provide excellent quality for a reasonable price; not cheap but reasonable.

1. 
   BillyBobRockland | Sep 10, 2005 05:34pm | #13

   awarrenj,
   After looking at chisels and pricing the only price that makes me weak at the knees it the Iles at $80+. Outside of that, I'm open to anything. So, if Two Cherries and Hirsch are virtually identical, what would be the deciding factor to go with one or the other?

1. 
   sailalex | Sep 11, 2005 12:28am | #17

   I understand they are identical except for the shape of the handles but I can't remember what the specific difference is. This forum has had a lot of Hirsch/Two Cherries users simnce I have been on.

2. 
   dirtstirrer | Sep 11, 2005 06:47pm | #19

   I have the Two Cherries version of the Hirsch, and I hate the handle.  Why do you need a handle that big!!!!  One of these days I'll adjust it.  Good steel though.

    Steve

1. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2005 05:35pm | #25

   Gee... Your a woodworker...Make NEW ONES!.. Just sort of funnin' ya..I hear ya' but like anything it was the designer and fabrication costs that makes it what you get..Find some way to chuck them in a lathe and go for it!Hope all is well for you...

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Sep 12, 2005 06:42pm | #26

   Will would you believe I don't have a lathe!? Shopsmiths don't count I don't think.  Could be an excuse though...

    Steve

6. 
   John100 | Sep 10, 2005 03:03pm | #11

   I needed a 3/8 mortise chisel a few years ago and ended up buying a new Hirsch and and old Weatherby.  The Weatherby is the only one I use...it's design is superior. 

   John 

1. 
   BillyBobRockland | Sep 10, 2005 05:36pm | #14

   One interesting note: no recommendations for Japanese chisels. As there is a lot of interest and respect for their saws I would think there would the same interest for their chisels...no?

1. 
   BillyBobRockland | Sep 10, 2005 05:39pm | #15

   My main interest in a single chisel is to practice making the same mortise until I can do it in my sleep, so to speak. However, I would guess a larger bench chisel would be useful to clean the cheeks. What would be a good size for that?

1. 
   BG | Sep 11, 2005 12:25am | #16

   BillyBob,
   If you execute the mortice correctly, no cheek paring is necessary....pushing the chisel forward slices the cheeks.
   Personally, I just think most mortice chisels are too big and way overpriced for 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8" mortices (I know most would disagree with me). I like to use firmer chisels which are easier to keep straight(because of their length)...but I always 'cut-in' with japanese chisels. The japanese chisel's tip is too hard and if used to pry the wood could chip.

2. 
   ufduh | Sep 14, 2005 12:17am | #27

   I have used a japanese chisel for cutting mortises and the edge held up very will but the cabinet style chisel is to thin for that kind of work you would need a mortise style chisel which you can get in a japanese chisel.

2. 
   dirtstirrer | Sep 11, 2005 06:49pm | #20

   Hi John, just picking nits, but it's probably a Witherby, not Weatherby, right?

    Steve

1. 
   John100 | Sep 12, 2005 01:31pm | #23

   Thanks for picking nits...your correct...sometimes it's way to easy for me to be the village idiot.

   John

1. 
   dirtstirrer | Sep 12, 2005 05:26pm | #24

   Shish, changing a couple vowels makes you a villiage idiot?  Might want to pick a new villiage!  Have a good day,

    Steve