Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Nov 29, 2021 08:07am | #1

   I use CA glue in medium viscocity for small turnings and it gives a nice hard gloss. Work fast, it sets up quick. I have no idea about ekin contact issues.

2. 
   john_c2 | Nov 29, 2021 12:33pm | #2

   I've never heard of an allergic reaction to cured polyurethane. Doesnt mean it isn't true though. Water based poly would be my first choice.

   Good finishes have a rating of the exact gloss level. If you look at the data sheets you can find the exact gloss level. One manufacturer's "gloss" can be equal to another's "Semi Gloss."

3. 
   PABrown | Nov 29, 2021 02:02pm | #3

   Spray lacquer, maybe? I've never tried it on jewelry, but that's what's used on high-gloss guitars and you can get it in small spray cans.

4. 
   [email protected] | Nov 29, 2021 08:02pm | #4

   I would be afraid that lacquer would fail with a lot of skin contact. CA is very durable, but some people react strongly to the fumes as it cures. It plugs me up for days without a vapor filter respirator. I’d use polyurethane. It’s pretty much plastic when it’s dry. There are also water based polys that I would guess would be fine to use as well.

5. 
   rob_ss | Nov 30, 2021 01:09am | #5

   A simple option is to dip the item in a slower curing epoxy. You should get a mirror finish every time. Have a heat gun to remove any bubbles. I've had good luck with cheap box store epoxy on pebbles. never done it on wood.

   CA glue gives a mirror shine but I can't imagine the effort of polishing it without it being on a lathe. It's top choice for pens.

6. 
   gulfstar | Nov 30, 2021 07:51am | #6

   Epoxy was my suggestion also, the thicker the better and if the parts can be set on a slowly rotating device while curing you can get a single coat to be thick and glossy without runs.

7. 
   pantalones868 | Nov 30, 2021 01:11pm | #7

   I met a man at a event some years ago who was a manufacturer of specialty epoxies. We had a long conversation about the properties and chemistry most of which I've forgotten but we also talked about the toxicity which he admitted was real and had accumulated effects. The one thing he said that stuck with me .... "if at any time you have a reaction of any kind working with epoxy your done!" He makes a wood resin penetrating epoxy that I still use extensively as a sealer for outdoor projects. I've consulted with him several times over the years about various solutions for projects I was doing. Smiths Epoxy.. His name is Steve Smith in Richmond CA. and I bet he answers the phone.
   The stuff is dangerous, I use it but I don't wear it! I've always been intrigued by shellac based lacquer work ( japanning) as opposed to nitro cellulose (Deft,Mohawk etc.) which is some kind of cotton based modern chemistry. Ive read about it , it's been used for thousands of years. The results are stunning.. Sounds a bit difficult to accomplish but if I was making jewelry....

1. 
   rob_ss | Nov 30, 2021 07:02pm | #10

   I have in the past treated a patient who was made infertile by epoxy use. Quitting the job did wonders for his sperm count!

1. 
   john_c2 | Nov 30, 2021 07:34pm | #11

   Ouch.

8. 
   gulfstar | Nov 30, 2021 01:37pm | #8

   He was right, if you develop an allergy to epoxy it will stay with you and you will not be able to work with it anymore. That said there are mask cartridges that will filter out the toxicity and this applies to working with uncured epoxies.

9. 
   fivebirdscustom | Nov 30, 2021 02:42pm | #9

   I was also going to suggest dipping in epoxy.

   Waterborne Polyurethane is surprisingly tough and dries crystal clear. But, it is a film finish and if mistreated will crack.

   I really like the idea of shellac.... but, I like it for a lot of stuff. You could spray it with a small touch up gun, let it cure a bit and then polish it. It can come up to glass like shine nicely.

   But, epoxy would be the easiest, I would think.

10. 
    Vincent_335 | Dec 19, 2021 03:05pm | #12

    Thank you all for the replies! I'll be trying out some different options in the coming months. I think I'll go with water-based polyurethane to start. :)

11. 
    gjoakes | Dec 20, 2021 10:17am | #13

    Just did this on a couple jewelry boxes for my grand daughters. I used "automotive" single-stage acrylic Urethane over automotive high-build primer (primer has to be sanded before applying color). Quite happy with results. Very glossy, very durable. I will be using this technique on other projects in the future. Obviously this finish has to be sprayed. Can also be "color sanded" and polished to remove blemishes and reduce orange peeling. Note that I have experience with auto painting, so I already had required spray equipment etc. Otherwise there may be a cost factor.

    If you want a clear finish (which it sounds like) then you could skip the color and just apply automotive clear-coat. This can also be color sanded and polished to remove flaws. This typically is associated with a 2-stage automotive finish but the first stage - the color - can be skipped.

12. FWW Editor
    ben_strano | Dec 20, 2021 12:36pm | #14

    This is a really great thread. The only thing I'd add is that luthiers are pretty great at getting that glassy gloss finish. It's all about surface prep and then polishing out and buffing the finish.

    You're working on jewelry, so I think buffing out using their techniques would be difficult with small parts.

1. 
   john_c2 | Dec 20, 2021 03:23pm | #15

   Polishing and buffing are indeed the keys. When I wanted something super glossy I use automotive buffing and polishing compounds. Those people know how to make things shine. But yeah, buffing a piece of jewelry gets pretty hard.