Hello All,
I recently bought a #7 jointer plane off of eBay that needed some attention. I was able to remove the rust, reapply the japanning, flatten the bottom and sharpen the blade. However, the lateral adjuster just flops around. I am very new to using hand planes so maybe it is operator error :-). But, the problem looks to be the Y shaped yoke that fits around the depth adjustment knob, it is very loose and when I move the adjustment lever back and forth the yoke moves left to right as well instead of staying anchored on the depth knob. Is the yoke supposed to move or is it supposed to fit around the knob fairly tight? Is this something that is worth trying to fix, if it can be fixed? If so how do I fix it? Or am I better off buying a whole new frog? Thanks for the help
SK2
Replies
sk, it is difficult to trouble shoot sight unseen but will offer a couple of suggestions.
My assumption is that the frog is original to the plane.
Remove the blade and understand how the mechanism works before proceeding.
There is a rivot tht holds that lateral adjuster to the frog. It sound like the rivot is loose allowing the adjustment lever to move around. To tighten it up, remove the frog and peen the rivot gently. First inspect and understand what is loose. The lateral adjustment should be snug and only move side to side with firm thumb pressure.
The only significant movement the yoke should have is forwards and backwards to advance and retract the blade. The yoke pivots on a pin that is pushed through the yoke. See how much the yoke moves around with just finger pressure. Make sure the pin and yoke is intact. My guess is that the yoke is broken or pin is missing.
This is all I can offer without seeing the plane. You will get other ideas on what to check.
Steve Pippins
Hi SK2... You seem to be describing TWO different things. First, make sure the screws that hold the frog to the body are properly tightened. The factory had a small washer under each of these two screws. If they are not properly tightened, the whole frog will move.
Now problem #1... Look at the end of the lateral adjusting lever. There should be a small 'washer' riveted to the end of it. If it is missing, the lateral adjuster will flop around. On some models, the end of the lateral adjust lever is bent up to go into the slot in the blade.
Problem #2... Take a good look at the 'Y adjusting lever'. Is it one piece of cast steel or is it made of two pieces of sheet metal held together at the pivot point by a hollow rivet?? If it is one piece, check the pin that holds it into the plane body. The pin may be sheered or just bent.
If it is made of two pieces of metal, go to any of several antique tool sites and get a solid one. The pin that holds it in place comes out easily. If the lever cap is set even SLIGHTLY too tight, the pressed steel piece will spread apart. A quick fix is to remove the 'Y' and have a local welding shop GENTLY BRAZE the two parts together. There was a long run of cheaper stanley planes made that way. I don't know if Stanley still has a parts service where you can get this piece. If memory serves me correctly, there is only one 'Y' that fits all the planes.
I don't know where you are located, but it mat pay to find a local 'Antique tool club' and check out the 'parts pile' that several members will have. You may be able to get the part at a relatively low price.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
Steve,
I took a look at the plane and both of the rivets are solid, straight and intact. There is no washer at the end of the long flat lever (the lateral adjustment lever?) although the rivet there looks to have been a bit longer in the past and has been peened down flat. The Y shaped piece under the frog (the Yoke?) is also one solid piece and the rivet there is solid, straight and intact. When I removed the blade and levercap I tried moving the part of the yoke that sticks up through the frog (the little nub that sticks into the rectangular hole in the chipbreaker) with my fingers and it flops around extremely easily with a corresponding movement in the long lever. Is this normal? Maybe the cause of my problem? Also just to clarify this is not a Stanley plane. I am not sure what kind it is. It says "No. 7" just in front of the knob and has "W.J.M.C.C." stamped on the side (maybe the previous owners initials with CC being cabinet company?). The blade, chipbreaker and lever cap are Stanley but the frog is most likely the original as I don't see "Stanley" anywhere on it.
1)"However, the lateral adjuster just flops around."
The lj is attached to the frog with a rivet, which can be tightened by careful peening -but careful because the frog is cast iron....
The lj engages with the slot in the blade via a thick washer of same diameter as the slot width. It is also riveted -is it still there?
2)"the Y shaped yoke that fits around the depth adjustment knob, it is very loose".
As already stated: substitute a solid one if it a pressed steel fabrication.
A replacement yoke must have sufficient height for the horn to engage with the slot in the backing iron, preferably with minimal play.
The two lobes of the yoke need to fit in the groove in the adjuster wheel with the least play-if you find one that is too tight you will be lucky-just file it to fit nicely.They are usually cast iron so don't try to peen...
A pin passes through the hole in the yoke-should be as non sloppy a fit as possible.You can resolve this one by making a new pin using a nail and drilling the holes in the frog and the yoke to fit- by a minimal amount.Centre punch one end of the pin to ensure it stays put.Be careful if you drill that frog .
The yoke must pivot on the pin and the pin must be a good fit in the frog holes although it can have some sideways movement between the shoulders of the frog.
The adjuster wheel must thread properly on the threaded rod which is screwed (fixed) into the frog.
So you can either attempt to cure the existing frog or kill it and you should examine a replacement frog for signs of the diseases outlined above. Generally speaking these modern frogs are an unhealthy lot, whilst the older ones suffer from the rigours of life such as wonky pins etc....
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. They were really helpful. All of you mentioned a washer that is supposed to be on the frog. It is missing, the only two washers on the frog are on the screws that hold the frog to the plane. I tried out the plane for the first time the other night and it works fine, although since the lateral adjuster does not work I have to adjust the blade using a few delicate taps and it seems to work just fine. While it would be nice to have everything working on the plane I guess at the end of the day if the plane makes nice shavings then that is good enough for me. It is, after all, not a collector plane and it works for me, albeit with a little more fussing and tweaking from me than if the lateral adjuster worked properly.
Thanks again,
Nick
You didn't say what kind of plane, but if its a Stanley, the yoke is cast zinc held with a roll pin. On mine there was a tremendous amount of slack since the hole in yoke was much larger than the pin. To correct, I put the yoke on top of my vice and using a center punch, gently peened the metal around the hole to narrow it. Because zinc is brittle, you must be very gentle or you'll crack it. Alternatively, you can fill the hole with epoxy mixed with metal filings and redrill the hole the correct size.
Also, check the clearance of adjuster tab to the hole in the blade, this was sloppy also. Here again, I used epoxy to reduce the size of the hole, a temporary fix at best but nothing else to do except buy a good plane, which I eventually did.
"You didn't say what kind of plane, but if its a Stanley, the yoke is cast zinc held with a roll pin."
Fwiw, not necessarily. I have found them with cast iron and cast bronze.I haven't seen one with a roll pin, but this would seem to be a good thing to use so it fits tightly in the frog.Philip Marcou
An old thread I know, but other than the missing washer(s) you are simply describing a plane with worn metal parts -- the brass adjuster nut loses material over many years of use making the connection to the yoke loose (and they were never "tight" even when brand new). The lateral adjuster becomes loose when the iron is adjusted left and right with the cap iron fully tightened, and usually way too tight. Reed Plane replacement parts is the only real answer. I have no financial interest in the company. A knowledgeable owner would have kept a little grease on the brass adjuster nut and a drop or two of oil on the lateral adjuster pin, both top and bottom of the frog. This might have forestalled the wear, SOME, but these old planes do end up with worn parts, not surprisingly, the ones that move. Metal-on-metal always results in wear. People often pay a premium for these very old planes only to be disappointed to get one that is essentially worn out and in need of parts replacement.
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