Replies

1. 
   DanG | Jul 29, 2007 01:17am | #1

   Sphere,

   I think what you're looking for is "Antebellum Shutters," by Ben Erickson, FWW No. 53, July/August 1985, pp. 58-61. The issue is out of print, of course. The jig was used with a radial arm saw, not a table saw, but I expect you can manage with a table saw if you don't mind dodging the sawdust.

   Looking from the front of the saw, to the left of the dado head the jig consisted of a plywood box with (left to right): an end with a hole equal in diameter to the louver's width; a bottom and back (no top or front) somewhat shorter than the louver's length; and another end with a hole like the first. On the right side of the dado was a block with a stop that contacted the center of the louver where the tenon would be formed.

   In use, the louver was sandwiched between two triangular prism-shaped guide pieces. The guide pieces effectively converted the flattish louver shape into a square billet with the corners rounded off, so it all just fit into the holes with a four-point contact at each end. The dado was set into position and locked, the "sandwich" was inserted through the holes until the end of the louver touched the stop, and the "sandwich" was then rotated to form the tenon.

   Since you've obviously seen the article before, this may be enough to refresh your memory. If it isn't, I suppose I could try scanning the picture. I wouldn't think that Taunton should object too much since the issue is out of print.

   Dan

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 29, 2007 03:10pm | #2

   Thanks man...I actually found it in a box of still packed books..it was included in one of the" techniques" series ( I have them all).

   First one I pulled out, I perused the table of contents and there it was!  What luck.

   Even if I hadn't, your description was excellent, I coulda winged it from there. I just restored my Rad saw to useable cond. so I think I'll go that route.

   Speed of loading the parts and clamping them seems like the only hiccup I can see.

   Thanks again.

    

   Edited 7/29/2007 8:13 am ET by Sphere

1. 
   daverichards | Jul 30, 2007 07:54pm | #4

   Perhaps it's too late but if you haven't finished up those shutters, you might want to take a look at 25 Woodworking Projects for Small and Large Boats edited by Peter Spectre, published by WoodenBoat. There's a chapter in the book that covers a simple router jig for cutting mortises to receive the slats. It is effectively a long tammel arm that the router swings on. The cut is really an arc but it is such a short arc that for practical purposes it is just a mortise set at an angle. the jig is designed to allow you to make the mortises for both stiles.

    

   You can probably find the book in your local big box bookstore or at the library.

    

   I've got a SketchUp drawing of the jig and I might be able to find it.

   Edited 7/30/2007 12:55 pm ET by DaveRichards

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2007 12:19am | #5

   That sounds intriging...also sounds easy.

   I have not got the final "go head do it" yet, so milling options are still open.

   I had just thought that the not fully housed slats would be a quick short cut, AND not leave itty bitty recessess to allow water the become trapped and push off the paint.

   If you could easily post that I'd be very happy to have  a look see at it. 

1. 
   daverichards | Jul 31, 2007 12:24am | #6

   Ill look for the model on my machine at home and make some images.

2. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2007 12:32am | #8

   Thanks.

   I need to come back here more often..LOL

   Been hanging at BT too much. 

3. 
   daverichards | Jul 31, 2007 05:59am | #9

   Alright, here we go. I hope these views make sense. The chapter in the book I mentioned will certainly clarify it all.

   http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/b51a46b0.jpg

   In this first view I show the trammel and the router bit (indicated by a small cylinder) at each end of its travel. I measured the angle at about 1.1°. the radius of the trammel is 45 5/8" although I doubt that is terribly critical. The work is shown with the mortises cut. It would be clamped to the fence the angle of which determines the angle of the mortises. The critical thing is to have the angles on both sides equal so that the mortises are complimentary.

   http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/weekender410/3d1cb349.jpg

   In this view you can see the angle fence. I have omitted the clamps and the rail to which you would afix the clamps. It depends on what sort of clamps you'd choose to use.

   So the upshot of all this is that you would clamp the stile in place, plunge and swing the router to cut the mortise, move the work the desired distance and repeat.

   I would also add some stops to keep from swinging the trammel too far. The location of the stops will depend upon the thickness of the stiles and the desired width of the mortises.

    

   I hope that helps.

   Dave

4. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2007 04:03pm | #13

   Thanks, thats a pretty slick option. I hadn't thought about it like that until now. 

5. 
   daverichards | Jul 31, 2007 04:13pm | #14

   You're welcome. Let me know if you use this method and how it works for you.

6. 
   Sphere | Aug 01, 2007 12:00am | #16

   All that for naught.

   Customers wife nixed the cost, looking for old recycled ones at this point..

   damm tire kickers.. 

7. 
   daverichards | Aug 01, 2007 12:06am | #17

   Ah well. Build the jig and make a set for the experience. The next ones will be a walk in the park and you might get another request. Or they might not find used ones that'll work and they'll call you back.

8. 
   Sphere | Aug 01, 2007 09:07pm | #18

   Yeah, if I only had the time.  Currently re-building 150 y.o. True divided lite windows..rotted mullions and muntins and all that good stuff.  4 down, 28 to go...arrggghh.

   I do think I can employ that jig in a few other soon to be projects. 

2. 
   Cincinnati | Jul 31, 2007 03:49pm | #12

   Dan,I'd recommend your getting permission to scan and post it. The article did not make the Best of FWW DVD. My understanding is the authors of some articles would not grant copyright permission for those articles that are missing from the DVD.As a photographer, I would never give away permission to copy my work. It is how I earn a living. It is how Taunton earns their income too.Greg

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

2. 
   jigjigw | Jul 30, 2007 09:55am | #3

   Woodline USA
   has a nice plantation Shutter 5 Router Set On Sale For: $58.65 (USD)

   http://www.woodline.com/v2/pc-1774-176-wl-2055-plantation-shutter-set.aspx

   Nice instructions for making shutters at:

   http://www.woodline.com/v2/Download/Plantation%20Shutters.pdf

   Take a look. It is a 6 page article from Handyman Magazine

   J_

   Land of the Free because of the Brave
1. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2007 12:30am | #7

   Whew!  that is just a bit more than I intend. Good article tho'.

   I'm fixing to drill 1/4" line holes , tenon the end of the louvers ( Just 1/4"x 1 1/2" flat, slight ease on the edges) with a 1/4" round stub. Assemble after spraying with primer, and pin each end of each louver, maybe a dab of glue.

   Thanks for the links. 

3. 
   Cincinnati | Jul 31, 2007 07:02am | #10

   I know you're looking for fixed shutter jigs. Norm did a show on both fixed shutters and on Plantation shutters. It is one of his projects that I am considering purchasing the plans and the DVD.

   http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0602

   Here's the one with a jig for louvered doors. I'm guessing you can also use it for fixed shutters:

   http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0101

   Greg

   -->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35-->

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/31/2007 12:08 am by Cincinnati

1. 
   QCInspector | Jul 31, 2007 02:48pm | #11

   When I saw pictures of the Festool Domino, one of the first things that came to mind was how easy it would be to make the slots for fixed louvered doors. Now if you can justify a new $1000.00 tool to make 4 shutters your all set.;-)

4. 
   Cincinnati | Jul 31, 2007 04:19pm | #15

   Methods of Work section in October 1982 has the jig for the tablesaw. It is a pair of v-blocks attached to a base with a miter slide on the bottom. A round "rolling pin sized so that the diameter is equal to the louver width. This holder has a slot in it that holds the louver, and a hose clamp in the center to provide enough friction to keep the louver from moving. it fits into the V-blocks, and spins above the saw blade of the tablesaw.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35