Hi All — I am looking at getting either a 4 or 41/2 smoothing plane and also likely a 5ish jack plane and a #7. In the course of my research I see that I could also get a low-angle smooth plane, jack plane and lee-nielsen even makes a low-angle #7. But what i don’t understand at all is the pros/cons of purchasing these 3 planes in either low-angle or standard angle. I know this is a really basic question and probably discussed previously, but i couldn’t find a thread directly on point in doing an on-line search.
I’d also appreciate any views on two other questions: first, i’m leaning towards a 4 over a 4 1/2 smooth plane (assuming i don’t get a low angle). I like the idea of a smaller plane for smoothing as the smaller blade will be easier to push through the wood. But if anyone has strong views to the contrary, I’d be glad to hear why. second, I’ve had certain folks suggest that if I am getting a 4-4 1/2 smooth plane and a #7 then i really don’t need a jack plane at all, and i’ve had others say that’s absolutely not a true, that a 5ish plane is critical because the #7 should really be used only to take off small amounts and the #5 is incredibly useful. And would your answer to this question change if i told you am also planning on getting a scrub plane (which i am)?
many thanks, tony.
Replies
Hi Tony you have some good questions here. As far as low angle or regular angle I would say that it is a matter of cost. If you can afford it, then buy the high angle. Low angle planes are actually large block planes. They are designed to cut end grain where you need a low angle of attack. Regular planing is done more efficiently with a normal angle plane. You can add a higher angle blade or change an existing one on a low angle plane to simulate a 45* angle, but if you can afford it why not just buy the correct plane. Low angle planes cut into the wood at a very sharp angle and tend to be more prone to tearout. As for the 4 or 4 1/2, I would recommend the 4 1/2. I bought this one myself for 2 main reasons, the added weight and the added width. With a smoother you are taking off a very fine shaving so it is not difficult to push the plane. The larger reference area and greater weight make it easier to achieve a smooth surface. And lastly the #5 question. I own a scrub plane, a 4 1/2 smoother and a #8 jointer. With these 3 planes I can take a rough board and make it as smooth as my skills will allow. I scrub the board until it is free from any wind and then use the #8 to flatten it, and follow with the smoother [although you could be very careful with the 8 and skip the 4 1/2] There is no need for a jack with this combination of planes. All 45* planes remove wood the same way. A smoother removes wood the same as a jack and the same as a #8. If someone is telling you that a jack is designed to remove more wood than a #7 then they don't know what they are talking about. A jack is a great plane if you are only going to purchase 1 or 2 planes, because it is long enough to joint and short and light enough to smooth. When you are making your choices just keep in mind that the majority of planes are the same. If you look at the middle section of a #8 and a #5 and a #2, they are all the same, just the length of the toes and the heels are really any different. It is just a matter of what is the most suitable size and weight for the task at hand. Good luck and keep us posted. Peter
Low angle planes are large block planes like Peter said. This means that they have and adjustable mouth like a blockplane. Thus, by adjusting the microbevel--a tiny bevel at the very edge of the blade--you can get any angle you want. This makes a low angle plane very versatile. Bed angle is not a limitation because cutting angle is easily changed at the microbevel. Because the plane is bevel-up, there is no need for a chipbreaker. The mouth can be set ultra-fine to reduce tearout. Different woods benefit most from different cutting angles; thus, the invention of the York pitch, or high angle frog for trad. bench planes. They're also cheaper, due to the lack of a frog.
However, they lack a frog, which means that they are lighter, and arguably less solid. Weight helps in planing because once you get the plane moving, it's more prone to slice on through and less prone to dig in and bind up. But with a trad. bench plane, you are limited to either one angle or two, if a high angle frog is available, as with the L-N 4 or 41/2. Adjusting the frog is much easier on a Bedrock style plane like the L-N's than on the older Bailey style, but for ease of adjustment, you cannot beat the low-angle setup. This plane can scrub, flatten, joint, and smooth. I know because I've done it.
In summary, then, once you learn how to accomplish each task, the low-angle setup is versatile and easy to use, and cheaper; so, if you think you'll only be buying one plane for a while, that's the one. Hoever, Peter's point is good: why compromise in favor of versatility if you can afford the perfect plane for each job? So, if you want one plane, and are willing to learn the sharpening skills to make it as versatile as it can be, low-angle makes sense. But if you have a comfortable budget, get a mess of plane specific to each purpose and you won't have to be messing around with your plane all the time.
Charlie
Tony...
it sounds like it's not too late... if you drop your research and retreat carefully away from the slope you should be fine in a day or two suffering nothing more than the odd weird dream now and then.. I know the slope doesn't look too steep and I know it looks like you can get off any time you want... but trust me... once you start on it...
I'll preface comment on your choices by saying that the best combination of planes is gonna depend highly on the species of stock you refer to work with. That said, from the looks of it, the list you have should be enough to cover 99% of anything you might want to work with...
Starting with a rough cut board, I cut some shape into it with a scrub plane; like Peter said, you use that to work the worst of the lumps, bumps and twisted bits out. Although a scrub looks deceptivly girlie, be warned, it's an animal... wear your safety glasses when using it..
I learned the hard way that trying to do everything with just the one long plane doesn't work for me... firstly it takes forever, and spending the entire day shoving over 8lbs o fighting steel back n fore over a board leaves me with rubbery legs and knuckles dragging on the floor... not a pretty sight... soooooooooo....
I prefer to refine the rough surface left by the scrub with a course set jack plane. I'll use either my #5 or my #62 depending on the charactor of the board. As the refining progresses, I'm more likely to use the #62, retuning it to take a finer cut, working the high spots to the point where the board's flat enough to cause the #7 to work most of the time if that makes sense.
(remember that irrespective of length, a plane will always act on the high spots on a board. The bed length regulates how much of the high area is exposed to the blade; the longer the plane bed, the more the blade is restricted to cutting only the tops of the high spots / short beds will allow the blade to cut partially into the "valley" between the high spots.)
When I'm satisfied that the board is straight, flat and twist free, I hit it with my smoother. Peter touched on this when he mentioned his choice of smoother; at this stage you're not hogging off material, quite the reverse. You're refining the finish left by the previous planes. For that reason, I prefer to use my #4 1/2 rather than a #4.
Now... bevel up / down... I honestly can't say which is "better"; both have their strengths and weaknesses. When selecting my jointing plane I was sorely tempted to go with the #7 1/2, but the lack of the adjustable mouth put me off; I prefer a tight mouth to minimise tear out when jointing the board as it reduces the work-load later on. That said, I believe TLN has an adjustable mouth #7 1/2 in the pipe...
I've already posted my thoughts on the #62 in another thread this week; I winna comment farther other than to say that IMHO it's definately a "go to" tool... I've yet to regret buying it and believe me, it earns its keep...
I canna comment on the low angle smoothers as there weren't any in production when I bought my #4 1/2. I've installed the york pitch frog into it which, although requiring a bit more effort, leaves an awsome finish on virtually everything I've set it to; it's seldom that I need to reach for my scrapers...
Which ever way you decide to go, I wish you all the best with the slope... be afraid... be very afraid...
;)
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
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