All,
Recently I bought a Stanley low angle block plane and took it through the sanding steps to get it nice and sharp. As I started to use the plane, I looked at the sole and saw some rather definite hash marks on the blade and assumed i did not sand enough..so back to the glass with sandpaper. I’m such a dummy! The blade goes in bevel side up, therefore sanding the bevel side really misses the point. But, given the flat side of the blade comes in contact with the wood, should that have a more finished surface?
Thanks, bG
Replies
BG,
As with any plane iron, the back should always be lapped first, regardless of the bezels' orientation. Sharpening and honing the bezel is also criticle; if done with too course of stone or sand paper, the cutting edge will be "serated" for lack of a better word. FWIW.
Dano
BG,
I touch my chisels and all other cutting blades with a leather razor strop, which is the ONLY way I can get them to shave hair off my arms.
benjamin
BG,
The cutting edge is the intersection of the bevel and back of the iron. Anything you do to the bevel you should do to the back. Both should have the grinding marks honed out, and both taken to the same degree of polish.
Alan
Both should have a mirror finish stropped in a leather honing strop as a final finish. I use a Tormek and finish up with the Scary Sharp(TM) system.
Of course, I could be completely wrong.
Beaux
I think you've got the right idea, but I've heard leather strops accused of deflecting under pressure and rounding off the edge. I've gotten good results using chrome oxide (the green stuff) on a hardwood or MDF board. Arm shaving sharp.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled