Replies

1. 
   hamelech | Apr 23, 2004 07:03am | #1

   Darren,

   I have  the Lie Nielsen low angle adj. mouth block.  It's a beaut.  It can't do everything, tho I try. 

   I find the adjustable mouth really allows tailoring the cut of the plane, as it helps 'stay' the fibers ahead of the blade.  When nearly closing the mouth and setting the blade quite light, the plane takes feathery wisps off a long grain edge and unbroken 'thins' from end grain.  Natch, a scary sharp blade is always Plan A, but the adjustable opening makes the plane peform that much better during a cut. 

   Sometimes, the low angle itself is not beneficial, especially if the grain changes to uphill.  I think the blade digs in and lifts the wood fibers instead of cutting them, and you wind up ripping chips 'n hunks from the work.  

   My personal method of working is satisfied with the low angle adj. mouth block, and a shoulder plane at some point will team up with the low angle for trim/futz duty .  I think a standard angle #4-ish smoother  would be my third addition, assuming the honorable wife was amenable.  Perhaps others can offer a good counter story about the rabbet blcok plane and in what situations it excels.

   Cheers,

   Seth

2. 
   djcolorado | Apr 23, 2004 08:57am | #2

   I have the rabbitting block plane and use it as much or more than my other block plane. I have never used it for rabbitting. When edge joining pieces with certain kinds of problems where I want to hand plane instead of using a joiner, keeping the edge true with the rabbitting block plane is much easier than using a smoothing plane. I'll rough out with the smoothing plane and finish with the rabbitting plane. When end grain trimming, it is the same concept where I will rough with a block plane and then do the final planing with the rabbitting plane to make sure the end is trued up. The Lie-Nelson is also fits in your hand really well and is I feel I have great control with it.

3. 
   SCFrankland | Apr 23, 2004 02:56pm | #3

   I have the 60 1/2 and the large shoulder plane and am happy with my choice of not getting the 60 1/2R. Not saying the 60 1/2R isn't a good plane but it does have some flex not much though. If you already have a Stanley 60 1/2 then I would get a shoulder plane instead. You will be very happy with it if you are looking to do tennon work.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Scott's WOODWORKING Website

   "He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."

4. 
   Midnight | Apr 24, 2004 12:44am | #4

   Darren

   I'd just about given up on block planes after trying the current offerings from both Record and Stanley; simply couldn't get a consintant cut with either despite following every scrap of tuning advise I could find. That was before I bought my L-N#140....It's performed beautifully straight outa the box; the only thought involved has been figuring how best to hone the blade (this was my first venture into skew blades). My only regret.. simply that I didn't buy it sooner..

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

5. 
   Alan | Apr 24, 2004 01:29am | #5

   Darren,

   It's something of a myth that standard-angle block planes do not do well on end grain.  I don't own a low angle block, and I don't want one.  I have no use for a low angle block:  my standard angle block has never failed me on end grain or anywhere else.

   I own one, and one only, low angle plane:  a Lee Valley low angle smoother I got to use as a dedicated miter plane.  I have no desire or use for another.

   Alan

   "Ah sleep, nature's greatest pleasure...next to drink."  WC Fields, in "My Little Chickadee."