Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 03, 2007 06:58pm | #1

   Waterborne finishes still remain well below good oil-ased finishes in terms of durability for bartop applications.  Low luster is available using any of the oil based varnishes, and is best achieved by rubbing out a gloss finish.  Using a satin varnish leaves you with the problem of how to eliminate the inevitable dust nibs.  A top quality varnish such as Behlen Rockhard or Pratt & Lambert 38 will give all the protection you need, and will rub out nicely. You still need enough film thickness to provide protection from water and spilled drinks.  In the wood finishes (if that is what is meant by "natural") are severely handicapped and are likely to show waterspots in a bartop application in a relatively short period of time.

1. 
   maderamax | Jan 03, 2007 07:27pm | #2

   Steve,

   Thanks for the reply. By 'natural' I only meant that the customer wants a finish that will show off the beauty of the wood, without looking too glossy, or "plastic coated".

   I typically would use several coats of poly for this type of application, sometimes with mediocre results on a surface of this size, which is why I'm searching for advice (having limited finishing experience myself).

   Forgive my ignorance, but what defines a varnish?

   Thanks,

   Max

    

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 03, 2007 07:43pm | #3

   Max,

   Parodoxically, a bartop finish is the quintiscential thick, glossy type of finish. I don't want to use the word "plastic" for its appearance, but that word often gets used.

   Bar top finishes need to be tough to take the abuse they receive, hence the thickness. One of the best is Behlens Rockhard, a very durable, oil-based varnish. It can be rubbed out to a beautiful surface if applied right and allowed to cure for at least a month before rubbing out.

   Modern polyurethane finishes do not have to have a plastic look, despite that reputation from older formulations. Like all varnishes they need to completely cure (usually about a month) before being rubbed out. Done right, they are as beautiful as any varnish.

   Rich

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 03, 2007 10:51pm | #4

   These days a varnish is defined as a reactive type finish.  Consequently, shellac and lacquers, which are both evaporative finishes don't qualify.  Waterborne finishes are a bit of a hybrid in that first they have to coalesce as the water evaporates and then have a reactive cure take place.  But the crosslinking that occurs with the waterborne tend to be weaker than those that happen in the oil based curing process, making the oil based more water and chemical resistant than waterborne. 

   I still think it is easier to avoid the plastic look by using traditional resin varnishes such as the Rockhard compared to a polyurethane varnish.  I'll agree with Rich that today's poly is a bit more clear than that of yore, but I don't think it still comes up to the appearance standard of Rockhard. 

1. 
   Rich14 | Jan 03, 2007 10:54pm | #5

   Steve,

   Yup, Rockhard really does rule in this kind of situation.

   Rich