Replies

1. 
   garth | Nov 26, 2003 02:18am | #1

   Jeff

   I do not like to spray oil-based varnish  of any kind as it is slow drying and the over spray makes every thing with 40 miles quite tacky. My own rule for temp is the work, the finish, and the air must be 60º, do no if this is writen in stone any where just my rule.

   Scott T.

2. 
   DennisS | Nov 26, 2003 07:17am | #2

   Jeff -

   I'm with you on this one. I've got quite a bit of finishing to do in my as yet to be heated shop. The guy at the Rodda paint store today seemed to be quite confident that laquer through an HVLP system would be OK given our local temps and himidity. My neighbor who is a professional cabinet maker mentioned this evening when I asked him the same question that humidity is something to be concerned about.

   Here in thee Pacific Northwest our air tends to be drier in the winter than it is in the summer. So I'm hoping all will bode well for spraying my kitchen cabinets and some flush doors as well.

   I plan on doing a few practice runs first, though!

   ...........

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   Arby | Dec 23, 2003 06:13am | #3

   I have been told by a Lenmar rep that CAB lacquer will spray and dry well down to 22 degrees F.

3. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 23, 2003 07:48pm | #4

   I'm with Scott for all the same reasons.  I found that lacquer spraying without blushing is more humidity dependent but it doesn't get all that cold in SoCal.  Warming the surface with a couple of 500w halogens helps some finishes flow out too.  I've haven't found conditions where I can't spray w/b poly on warmed wood.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

4. 
   notDusty | Dec 23, 2003 08:57pm | #5

            jeff,                           With lacquer type finishes it is the moisture in the air more than the temp . Here in Oregon the worst time to spray is about 55 degrees and raining , it gets humid and balmy . This type of conditions seem to promote blushing.As long as you don't have a lot of moisture in the air, the low temp won't hurt you .              good luck

5. 
   CharlieP | Dec 23, 2003 09:21pm | #6

   I never spray varnish

   I second the several comments about moisture being the problem spraying lacquer.  But something to consider....  If you use an HVLP conversion spray gun, by the time the pressure is reduced at the gun, the air expands and is rather cold, making the moisture/condensate problem worse. 

   The last time I had a demo of a turbine "true" HVLP system, part of the pitch was "warm" dry air being delivered.  That didn't register until I got some moisture-type blushing, spraying on a cool (damp) day with my conversion gun.  I haven't (yet) invested in a turbine HVLP system, but you may be able to go to much lower ambient temperatures with a turbine system than you can with a conventional spray or conversion HVLP spray.  Therefore part of the question is "what kind of sprayer?"

   A secondary question for those expert in this topic...

   One of the joys of lacquer is no drop cloth required... by the time the overspray reaches the ground, it is powder.  If you are spraying in the cold, the speed the solvent evaporates will be slower.  Do you need drop cloths to keep from making a slippery wet coating on the floor?

1. 
   jeffreysherow | Dec 23, 2003 11:54pm | #7

   Got a favorite Laquer that is kid and liquid resistent and good in high-abuse conditions?  Don't care if it yellows.

1. 
   CharlieP | Dec 24, 2003 12:50am | #8

   I just use the cheap Parks "Pro" high gloss nitrocellulose lacquer from Home Depot.  It has almost no color - you can easily see the bottom of a full gallon can.  I use the gloss for everything, rubbing it to satin or bringing it back to a high gloss.  I don't want a dulling agent inside the finish, like you get with satin.  Thin it substantially for spraying, and apply numerous thin coats, allowing around an hour between coats (Dry to the touch in a few minutes, but it is still soft for a few hours).

   I looked at Deft and other big-name brands, but couldn't see the advantage for 1 1/2 times the cost.  I considered precatalyzed lacquer, which gives a harder finish, but loses some of the repairability.  I have not found any household substance that damaged the ordinary lacquer (other than finger nail polish remover) - no water, soap, liquor, food, etc. 

   Incidentally, since Lacquer is solvent based, rather than reactive, I don't even bother cleaning my spray gun - it stays partially full all the time.  If it has been a couple weeks since the last use, the lid may be hard to open, but a few drops of solvent/thinner fixes that.  And it drys so fast that the overspray is dust before it hits the floor, and I don't worry about sawdust getting in the finish.

   By the way, did I say I like using lacquer?

   Be sure to use a respirator suitable for organic chemicals ($30) and good ventilation, without any sparks or flame in the area. 

2. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 24, 2003 12:54am | #9

   Lilly they have all kinds, including CAB and nitro.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne