I’m about to “rub out” my finish (Waterlox original- varnish ). I plan to use Abralon pads through 3000 for this 10′ X 5′ eliptical table top. I’m seeing conflicting ideas as to what, if anything, to use as a lubricant. I’ve read: use nothing, mineral oil, water with soap, mineral oil and mineral spirits in different proportions, etc. What do you think & why?
If I’m not satisfied with the resulting sheen, I may go on to various automotive compounds &/or polishes. However, if they contain wax, I’m concerned that the wax may interfere with the bonding of any refinishing that I may need to do, in the future. Ideas?
Many thanks,
Morty
Replies
Wax is easy to remove since it is dissolved by mineral spirits and a little elbow grease with plenty of rags. The other materials you mention are also similarly removable. All work. They give slightly different looks to the ultimate sheen.
The only thing that is dramatically more difficult to remove is silicone which could be present in some automotive waxes and possibly even some polishing compounds. You can find compounds without silicone. See Homestead Finishing Products for Mezerna polishes which don't have silicone.
By the way as a matter of nomenclature, Waterlox is varnish, not varnish mixed with oil. Tung oil is an ingredient in the manufacturing process, not as a seperate material in the end product.,
I had excellent results with soapy water (dishwashing detergent) with Abralon on a polyurethane top coat.
No residue.
I've had excellent success with Abralon pads for a final rub-out, but I think you'd have a better time (especially with that huge abount of surface area) levelling the finish with coarser abrasives first. The technique I've found effective is to use a wet-dry paper starting around 320 or 400 to level things - sand using a felt or cork-backed sanding block until all of the high spots are gone. You'll know that when there aren't any shiny areas left, since those will be the "valleys" in the finish.
All the way through, I use a lubricant of 50% mineral spirits and 50% mineral oil, spritzed on the surface with a spray bottle. The lubricant slows down the abrasive and gives you better control over the process. Using no lubricant at all will allow the abraisves to cut very aggressively. That's okay if you have a thick-enough film finish. I'm always a little cautious, so I use the lubricant and take a little more time. There are commercially-available lubricants for this process, but making your own is less expensive. (By the way, mineral oil is baby oil. You can buy it unscented at most drug stores.)
If you go through 4000 with the Abralon there won't be much left to do with automotive products unless you are looking for a "wet look" finish for the table.
Jeff
http://jszcbf.wordpress.com
Lubricant with abralon?
Thanks to all for your replies. Very helpful. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can. We'll see.
Morty
Rubbing out with Abralon
Morty,
Please post a followup on how well things go. I tried Abralon with soapy water and polishing compounds. I'm also working on a large table top.
Neither the P4000 nor the Rubbing/Polishing compound combinations got me the sheen I was hoping for. I don't know if it was a lack of buildup on my finish or being too aggressive? I built it up with 7 thin coats of clear wipe-on finish and 5 thin coats of satin gel finish. After rubbing out, it's currently at a low luster satin sheen, it doesn't seem to want to get any sheenier with more polishing compound.
Tomorrow, I'm going to just put several coats of wax on, buff it out and just be done with it.
Rubbing out
Morty
The only thing to add is : the longer the dry time from the last coat the better the rub + polish
SA
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