Replies

1. 
   alias | May 22, 2005 03:50am | #1

   tom - enclosed in the attachment is an article from the september/ october 1995 of fine woodworking. the picture is of low quality but i beliee you can make out the lubricating points and the kind of lubricants. the top ( green) is paste wax, orange (white lithium grease), bottom ( blue) wd-40. the frequency is entirely dependent on the user , materials cut and general sounds , and good ole common sense. figure about a half a day. sorry for the mediocre quality good luck bear

   ..

   " He who makes a beast out of one's self, get's rid of the pain of being a man"

   
1. 
   alias | May 22, 2005 04:03am | #2

   i feel i lift some significant points, measure blade exactly to miter slot. and replace EXACTLY back from where it was . make marks whatever is the method you chose.. clean interior very thoroughly gunk, sawdust. a stiff bristle brass brush two or three. the gunk can be dissolved with some stuff called(oxi-solv ) water soluable, non-toxic. check arbor and bearings. check belts and pulley's, tension and alignment. if you would like i'll copy the article and send you an e-mail......b...
   " He who makes a beast out of one's self, get's rid of the pain of being a man"

2. 
   Ricks503 | May 22, 2005 06:59pm | #3

   I have heard and seen pictures of someone using a foam/aerosol variant of white lithium to lubricate the screws, using one of those long red plastic tubes in the nozzle to get it into the tight places.

   Anyone know where I can get that stuff?

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
3. 
   hammer1 | May 22, 2005 07:22pm | #4

   I spray some WD40 on my lifting and tilting screws as well as in the ways of the yoke anytime they are not working effortlessly. I use my saw daily and I guess it needs a squirt every few months. Most of the bearings are sealed so there is no lubing. The operating pieces on the fence will get a drop of WD when needed. I use furniture paste wax on the table and fence faces and rails at least once a month. Ordinary V-belts can benefit from an occasional spray of belt lube, 2 or 3 times a year.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   WillGeorge | May 22, 2005 11:14pm | #5

   How often do you lubricate your TS

    As often as she will let me!

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 23, 2005 01:13am | #6

   Whenever is starts to squeek as you crank the raising or tilt wheels. Paste wax is the best lubricant for the worm gears. Minimize any grease as it attracts and holds sawdust. Paste wax does not.Howie.........

1. 
   MarkRD | May 23, 2005 01:51am | #7

   Howie, Thanks, thanks, thanks....I've been wondering what to use on my threaded rods...(the hight and tilt adjustements) You're right about oil/grease - sawdust sticks... I was going to use graphite but it does not "hang around" like wax will...Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

   View Image

5. 
   forestgirl | May 23, 2005 08:40pm | #8

   Hmmmmmm, I'm surprised we haven't heard from the "dry lube" crowd on this.  In past threads, they've shown up in force!  Seems like there's something you can buy at the fancy bike shops that's an alternative. 

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   tailsorpins | May 24, 2005 12:48am | #9

   Dry Lubes: Perfect for woodworking machines

   As mentioned, there is a bicycle chain lube that contains Teflon (& other lube constituents) and totally evaporates.  It works well.  "White Lightning" is available from Nashbar & Performance .... both on the internet.  Watch close, as there is a variety that is like chain-saw chain oil, very tenacious, slick & stringy, for especially wet cycling conditions .... it never dries....avoid it on woodworking equipment.

   Then there's LPS-1, the premier aerosol that is grease free, non-staining and dries completely.  I use it on everything from household door hinges, latches & locks, outdoor padlocks, oven doors, (metal) drawer slides.  Only drawback is the cost.  Seems that all the woodworking articles have chosen to boycott it .... go figure.

   And .... I can't believe that a short term preservative like WD-40 is still universally used as a lubricant .... perhaps the poorest lubricant you could choose to enhance the longivity of moving metal parts!  Like paste wax on load bearing threads, it's gone in a very short time.  I'd reserve paste wax for bare table surfaces and faces of fences, where it can be renewed weekly. 

   Just my 2 cents.

   John in (East)Texas (have drought -- send rain!) 

1. 
   MarkRD | May 24, 2005 02:14am | #10

   WD 40 is a great product forLoosening surface rust
   limiting future rust...
   Cleaning grease based gunk...It has it's niche. Sadly, not enough know that niche (and since it's on the end caps at HomeDepot Checkouts it's used by everyone for everything needing oil (or grease)Now, if more lubricants came in a spray can like the WD-40, that would be handy.Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

   View Image

1. 
   forestgirl | May 24, 2005 06:42pm | #12

   WD40 "limiting future rust..."  I have a friend who rubbed it onto his new General contractor saw table (which I strongly discouraged him from doing).  Boy was he sorry!  Made the surface discolor.  He ended up wet-sanding the dickens out of it.  I think he's waxing now.

   Just a heads up for anyone who finds this thread and is tempted.....forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   hammer1 | May 24, 2005 03:36pm | #11

   I'm often one who recommends the dry teflon lubricants. They are great on clamp screws, yankee screwdrivers and items where you don't want any greasy residue. The better ones like Krytech are only available at specialty bicycle shops and they are expensive. It doesn't last very long.Any lubricant that has any body, like wax, grease, even oil, will attract sawdust. The dust may not hurt the screws but it can accumulate and sometimes get in the way of the stops. Turning the lifting and tilting screws by hand occasionally won't wear out the screws in several lifetimes.WD40 is something most of us have around the shop. It dissolves resins, penetrates and lubricates. The vehicle evaporates and it leaves behind a semi dry lubricant. The spray can with a straw gets into places that are hard to reach. The penetrating action gets into little nooks that other lubes miss. It only takes a few seconds to spray some around but the important part is that it works well, you probably already have some and it keeps things clean. I've used many other products on my saws but WD is the one that makes the movement effortless and lasts the longest.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

6. 
   nikkiwood | May 25, 2005 07:10pm | #13

   I'm with the crowd that favors white lithium grease -- the kind in an aerosol can (which can be purchased in any auto parts store).

   I suppose paste wax and/or WD-40 might also work -- but I would think its effect would be short lived.

   How often you lube, of course depends on how much you use the saw. If you're paying attention, you can generally feel when the gears, threads and trunions start to turn a bit harder -- and that's obviously the time to relube.

   I have an old Inca planer/jointer that needs to be tended to every couple of months, whereas my TS seems to go for a year or two.

   ********************************************************
   "I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
   -- Herb Caen (1916-1997)