There have been many posts re: lumber racks that I have read in order to get some ideas for building my own rack. The main difference is that most of the methods were being using in basements. Considering that I’m in Texas and most people don’t know what a basement is down here, I went with a different approach to achieve the same results. My garage/workshop is unfinished, therefore the studs are exposed, which simplified the process for me. I determined that I wanted each shelf support to be 12″ apart so I cut 2×4 blocks at a 5 degree angle on both ends and used three screws to attach each block to the existing studs, leaving ~3 1/2″ gap between blocks (vertically) for the 2x4x16″ shelf support to slide in. Note: I ended up using a playing card on top of my 2×4 shelf support to give me just enough room to slide each in without needing to hammer each in. Each stud wasn’t spaced equally but I decided to mount blocks at every stud to give me the flexibility to add or remove shelf supports as needed, whether due to lumber weight or “shorts,” and I have blocks from floor to ceiling (9′). With this approach, the only design involved is the shear of the screws in each block and the crushing of each block, both due to the reactionary force by each shelf support. Therefore, it eliminates the need to attach a cleat at the top due to an induced wall moment. If anyone is interested in seeing some photos, I’ll try to post some on here. Maybe there are some other’s that have non-CMU block walls for your shop that might be interested…
Brett
Replies
Brett,
I would be very interested in seeing your photos.
George
You don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard
George,
The photos I have exceed the file size limit so let me reduce the size so I can post multiple photos...
Just to clarify, when I mentioned that there's no induced wall moment, I should have included is "to be concerned with." after that. The reason it's negligible is because the double top plate is fastened to each stud and the full-length ceiling joists are fastened to the top plate--requirements based on the IRC (International Residential Code). So, the shear capacity of the nails that tie these together is adequate to resist the wall moment. Note: you should verify the fastening of your wall section to be sure.
Hope this helps...
Brett
Edited 8/9/2007 11:12 am ET by bbobo
George,
Here we go...
Thanks Brian,
Looks good. I will keep your system in mind when I build a storage system for my lumber. Right now it is stored in the shop attic with the working material stored on the floor. Neither system is satisfactory. I am also considering Forest Girl's system with 1/2 inch iron pipe in holes in the 2X4 upright.
GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->
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Thanks George. The only caution with using her system with our application is that if your wall is a load bearing wall, you don't want to compromise the intergrity of the existing studs. Her wall was completely separate since there was a block wall for the basement. You shouldn't bore more than 40% of the stud for a load bearing wall on either face. So, that's why I "scabbed" on the spacer blocks to the side of each stud. Not to mention the cost of purchasing the pipe andn having it cut to length for each shelf support. The entire rack was free considering I had all of the scrap 2x4 material laying around the shop. Either way, I hope you find a system that works for you.
Brett
Brett,
That is a really sharp lumber rack. Nice work! I will be "borrowing" your idea sometime in the not too distant future for my lumber rack. :^)
What is the upward angle of your supports? Are you pleased with the angle that you chose? Just curious...
Thanks, I figured that other's may benefit from it too so I'm glad you find it helpful! There's a 5 degree angle on the 2x4 support blocks, which has proven to be adequate so far; however, you might consider going up to 10 degrees. The reason is that it all depends on the wide face dimension of the 2x4 shelf supports so if there's too much "play" in the shelf supports, you'll end up closer to parallel with the ground. With my lumber rack, I used both scrap 2x4 material and some new 2x4 material but even with new lumber, there's a slight variation in the wide face dimension, anwhere from 3 6/16" to 3 9/16" for what should be a 3 1/2" board. So, I'd recommend ripping all of the 2x4 shelf support material to a certain width, maybe 3 1/4", to have everything consistent. Then cut the end off of one of the ripped boards and use that as a template when placing the 2x4 support blocks on the existing studs (this is where I used a playing card to give me just enough "play" to remove/add shelf supports where I need them). I ended up just using a large spring clamp to hold the shelf support template onto the existing studs when adding the additional support blocks.
I've added more support blocks and shelf supports since those photos so you can run it from floor to ceiling. Also, on a separate wall, I added a hinged plywood storage bin with casters so I can post a photo of it if anyone is interested. It makes storing and selecting sheets good very easy as I was finding myself having to pull out each sheet from a wall in order to get to the sheet I wanted to use. It was made from one sheet of MDF, two 3" casters, and two butt hinges I had leftover so it cost me nearly nothing to build.
Any questions, please ask. Otherwise, post some photos of it when you finish...
Brett
Brett, thanks for clarifying. I've considered using LVL material (I love that stuff, but its not cheap) or SYP 2x12 and ripping the pieces that I need to ensure uniformity throughout. Or like you said, I could always take a little off of a 2x4, but I've found that its easier for me to find higher quality construction lumber in the 2x12 or 2x10 SYP as opposed to a straight 2x4 in spruce-pine-fir or SPF. You just have to be willing to rip the pieces that you need. Thanks again, that really is a good looking rack.
Forestgirl, that is a nice rack. Did you have any issues boring the holes at the same angle? Just curious. I don't have a drill press. I also wonder about boring holes in the load bearing walls in my basement shop. Might not be the best idea for me for my situation. Something that I've always wondered about lumber racks that use pipe for supports, do you ever notice small dimples on the bottom board where it has rested on the pipe supports? Again, nice rack.
Edited 9/12/2007 8:55 am ET by Ryan1
"...I've found that its easier for me to find higher quality construction lumber in the 2x12 or 2x10 SYP as opposed to a straight 2x4 in spruce-pine-fir or SPF."
You can say that again. To my knowledge, a straight 2x4 does not exist in all of southern Ohio.
Forestgirl, that is a nice rack.
Hey! Watch your language!
-Steve
The two lumber racks, mine and ForestGirl's, are similar in the concept but I think the applications are different since one is for a basement shop with CMU block walls and the other is for a traditional stick-framed wall above grade. Since you have a basement, it might be best to follow her method. You could still use the 2x support blocks and 2x shelf support vs. the pipe but that's just a matter of preference. The only concern is that I'd avoid boring holes for the pipe in the 2x frame that bolts to the block wall (I put a previous post in this thread about boring holes and how much should be removed in a stud). I'd be inclined to scab on additional studs, similiar to my approach, and then bore through these studs. That way, you're not compromising the integrity of the support frame.
Note: I'm an engineer for the residential industry and I've seen more than my fair share of bored holes through material from electricians, plumbers, a/c, etc. that can pose significant structural problem for the home.
Using the larger dimensional lumber is a good idea if you have a hard time finding straight 2x4 material. In fact, I think we all do--I end up filtering through almost an entire stack of 2x4 material at HD or Lowe's to find maybe 8 "straight" boards. Since mine were cut into short pieces, it wasn't imperative that the boards be perfectly straight.
As far as drilling the holes, you can creat a jig to drill at the correct angle for each one. Even something as simple as using a miter saw to cut a 2x block at the desired drill angle and then being sure your drill is parallel to the cut angle when boring the hole.
I'll try to post a photo of the sheetgoods storage bin this week...
Here is a pick of the one I built. I decided on spacing the horizontal legs at about 14" and back sloped at 5deg so the stock does not fall out. The stock is composed of 1x_ and 2x_ stock that I jointed and planed so it all fit well together. After prepping the stock I used brad nails to hold in place, glued and clamped the assemblies all at once so they match. Each of the frames is lag screwed to a wall stud using 2 - 3/8"x6" lags. It has been loaded since installed and no signs of any movement.
Good luck
Since everyone is showing theirs, I'll show mine. I built this one recently, based on a design by Paul Anthony, given in Smart Workshop Solutions.
It's made out of 2x4s extracted from SYP 2x12 joists, and run-of-the-mill 3/4" birch plywood. And lots of screws (a shout-out to McFeely's and their Optimized Thread Length screws--I couldn't have done it without them). There are two separate freestanding racks, each with pairs of supports on 2' centers. The two racks are then spaced 3' apart, for a total end-to-end span of 7'. There are four leveling feet on each rack.
-Steve
Steve, that's a clever approach as well. I think it just goes to show that there are many different workshop solutions, no pun intended, and it all depends on what's best for your application and how much space you have available. Like I've been told before, no one else knows what's best for your shop, only you do. Having the input from everyone here is what's invaluable and it allows you to customize your shop based on the designs of others.
Attached are a couple of photos of both the finished lumber rack and the swinging sheet goods bin. As I mentioned before, the sheet goods bin is very simple and inexpensive as it's made from one sheet of MDF, two 6" hinges, and two 3" casters...
Thanks for the pics. Looks like a nice set up!
My shop is actually just a weird garage (not basement). The wall that's mostly cement block is against a hillside. The plan I followed, though, if for a regular stick-built shop. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Brett, by the way, could you post a pic of the sheet goods storage that you were describing? I would like to see it.
Thanks!
Ryan, I built a similar rack several years ago, but used pipe instead of lumber horizontals, making it adjustable for varying thicknesses of your stacks on each shelf. Click here and scroll for more info. The basic design was in one of the magazines, but I had to modify it for a mostly-cement wall.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
resized for the digitally impaired
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