I have been using “scary-sharp”, and have been generally satisfied with the results. I use the LV Mk II sharpening jig/fixture as well as free hand. However, I’m looking to speed up the process. I’ve also found that long sessions can aggravate carpal tunnel issues.
I’ve used water stones in the past, but my current workspace doesn’t have easy access to a water supply or drainage. The water issue keeps me from considering using stones or the Tormek/Jet offerings.
I’m curious if anyone here has used the LV Mk II power sharpening system or has any thoughts about it. I do realize the increased cost of consumables, but for the volume of work that I do it’s not a problem. Ease of use and speed are the key issues. The review in the FWW 2007 Tools edition is very positive. Any first-hand insights or advice will be appreciated.
Replies
I just keep my waterstones in a 2 gallon bucket so they stay wet all the time and every so often I just change the water. That and a spray bottle of water works for me.
John
J,
I bought the shaptons to avoid all the mess and speed things up. Just a spray bottle of water, 5-6 strokes honing(30 deg with MkII), 20 sec. on the back bevel(using ruler trick) and i'm ready to go. Every once and a while I re-sharpen (25 deg) but for the most part it's honing only.
I'd do a search in google. I was looking at this system a couple of years ago. I found some very favorable reviews, noting especially the benefit for sharpening many chisels at a time.
Our club, the Long Island Woodworkers, held a sharpening saturday a few months ago. We all brought different ways to sharpen. Scary Sharp, oilstones, waterstones. I use Shaptons. One friend brought his MArk II unit, and it clearly attracted the biggest crowd. It's great for lapping and for sharpening planes and chisels. I won't use it because it's expensive, and I ma happy with Shaptons, but if you don't mind the price, it will do the job quite well. I have one cryogenically treated blade, and it's the best way to handle that type of steel. It keeps an edge forever, but it takes that long to sharpen as well, and forget lapping!!!
I bought the MK II and have been using it for about a year now. It does a great job on chisels and plane irons because when you switch to the final grit it puts a microbevel on the edge without having to make any changes to the setup. It is also very easy to lap the blades on the MK II. I considered the Tormek, but if you buy all of the options it comes to around $800.
Thanks to everyone for their input. Looks like it will be a "go". Any thoughts on whether it is worthwhile buying extra platters and/or using the intermediate grits? For final honing is it preferable to buy the LV felt wheel, use a piece of cloth attached to a 3mm disc, or just strop the old fashioned way? Lastly, is the issue of different speeds at the inside and outside of the disc really an issue at all, or can it be overcome with slightly higher pressure on the inside edge?
Edited 11/6/2006 6:41 pm ET by JCKMD
Is there any way to NOT put the microbevel on with the final grits? Sometimes one might want to sharpen a blade without a microbevel.
When you use the system to sharpen chisels or plane irons you put the tool into a holder that establishes the angle of the edge. (Carving gouges are done freehand from the tool rest). The system comes with two platters, one 4 mm thick and one 3 mm thick. You mount the 80 and 150 grit abrasives on the thicker one and the 320 and 1200 on the thinner one. To sharpen a tool, you use the coarse grit and then the medium and then finish with the 1200. The 320 is only used for lapping. Because the platter that the 1200 is mounted on is 1 mm thinner than the other one, it automatically puts a 1 degree microbevel on the edge without having to change the setting of the tool rest. I guess you could buy an additional 4 mm platter and mount the 1200 on that to avoid creating a microbevel. The platters are pretty cheap...under $15.00.
Hi,
I bought the power system after trying the wetstones, and scary sharp with the Lee valley guides (#1&2?). I watched the pros using the Tormek at the WW shows, but thought there must be a steep learning curve to using it, especially dressing the wheel to change grits. Also with water, it needs changed or it gets nasty like an unused toilet.
At the KC WW show last Feb, I talked to the Lee Valley folks who showed me their power system. I questioned the guy about the operation, he was very knowledgeable and helpful. The result was I felt that it was what I needed (plus I had a gift card for part of it in my pocket). At the time of my order it was on about 2 month back order. I fell it was worth the wait.
When I rec'd it I sharpened my good chisels and put the cover on the machine until I saw this post. (Don't use my chisels that much).
I went to the shop tonight and got one of my old Sandvik chisels out to refresh my thoughts on this machine.
The chisel was dull and had never been lapped. I could have run it thru the entire sharpening in a few minutes, except I forgot how to set the jig and had to read the book, so it took 10 minutes. That is for lapping, running thru 4 grits and leather stropping with compound.
If I could have one suggestion to improve the machine, it would be that there should be a 90 degree registration on the holder. I bought a small engineers square to line the chisel up in the holder. The Lee Valley guys seem brilliant, so I'll bet in the future they can come up with an automatic 90 registration.
I don't know if it would be successful in sharpening long blades like scissors or jointer, planer blades, so be aware of that. That was not a concern of mine, as I would rather send them out.
I would buy this machine again in a split second!!
I think it is the best on the market for the price.
Bob
I just bought Jet's Tormek clone.
It is somewhat cheaper than the Lee Valley, but you do need to consider the true total cost to own. Once you buy the Tormek diamond truing tool and one or 2 extra jigs, you are quickly whizzing past the LV cost. Now, over time, I don't know about the cost of the LV disks vs. the cost of occasionally replacing a grinding wheel.
The Tormek/Jet is not idiot-proof out of the box. If the wheel is out of true, if the drive train lopes, if your tool is not square in the jig, if you have not properly dressed the stone, if your finger pressure and side to side movements are irregular, etc., you may not get quick & satisfying results. And it really is not a good tool for flattening/lapping. You can use the side of the wheel, but it can get out-of-flat and the grinding speed varies across the radius.
All that said, if you're a bit of a Luddite, you might find the wet wheel experience satisfying.
Boy you guys must hate money. I have a small bench grinder for taking out the really bad nicks, a $ 23.00 combination waterstone, and a hard black Arkansas stone. The edges I put on my chisels are quite nice. You can shave the hair off you arms.
With that said, why get involved with such an elaborate set up? Makes no cents to me. Pun intended :)
just my humble opinion.
Bit over the top there, I seem to recall Sgain talking up using the back step. Apparently provided you work across it methodically it stays true enough for most purposes.
(sorry Sgain)
Well, you have a point. For years I did without any grinder at all. The Tormek had some appeal but the price threw me off. Then I heard about the Jet at about $100 cheaper and bit the bullet. After a week with it, I agree that money could've been better spent. It has some value to me but not $299 worth. Some of the newer sandpapers (like the blue Norton sold in belts) can cut a nicked chisel nearly as fast, maybe faster, with less set up and no water mess. I'd like to take the thing back to Woodcraft but have already trued the grinder and sanded the drive wheel.
I said to my dad once "Why do I always have to learn the hard way?" He replied, "What other way is there."
Edited 11/14/2006 10:44 am ET by ubc
Tom,
Woodcraft has a guarantee. They will take things back up to a year. If you are unsatisfied, or just plain dont think it was worth the money, just take it back and Woodcraft will give you your money back. That is one reason for buying from Woodcraft rather than from other places which are much cheaper but do not have a guaranteed return policy. You are not taking money out of their pockets. They have built in the cost of their policy into their pricing scheme.Enjoy.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Thanks, I did not know Woodcraft had that policy.
Though I already was impressed with the quality of our local store.
I didn't know that they had that policy, either.
Hummmm. That kinda takes one reason not to buy a new tool away, and there weren't many left. Well, money, but other than that.
Mike D :)
check out this web site.
http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/diamondstones/trendstones.asp
they were at the Calgary wood show this weekend. It is a continuous, flat (.0005") diamond stone. None of the litlle bumps of a DMT. No water, just a spritz witht he lapping fluid. It will handle A2 cryo and way beyond.
best wishes,
When is someone going to make a ROUND one of those, about 6 to 8 inches diameter, nice and flat and rigged so that we can attach it to a lathe head stock or other way such as in the horizontal position?
Or have I been sleeping?Philip Marcou
Okay Metod, what are you getting at there?
I use the Veritas (Lee Valley) power system. I have used it regularly to keep 12 chisels very sharp and couldn't be more pleased. The system is fast for grinding, shaping and honing. I purchased an extra platten (the system come with two) so I could add another step to fine tune some blades.
I bought a 2" chisel on eBay that was in terrible shape but bought it because I knew I could bring it back to life in a short time. In less than 15 minutes I put an entirely new edge face, polished edge and honed micro bevel. Do that with sand paper or a stone.
Good luck with your selection!!!
man, don't i know it on the time thing. i've got a small wooden handplane with a blade made in china that might measure an inch and a quarter across. i spent more time lapping that one than i care to say. next i tuned my new LV plane with a 2 inch blade. i was prepared for a miserable time, but it was in so much better shape than the chineese one, the lapping and honing was minimal. any more experiences like the first one and i would have bought the mk II.
I own one and it is excellent for sharpening plane blades and bench chisels. I purchased extra thin plates and cut micro sandpaper 0.3 microns to fit. This is equivalent to 12,000 grit water stones. I also mounted leather on on wheel and add compound. I usually give the tools a final honing on these to get a scary sharp edge. It takes minutes instead of hours to sharpen with this machine. I was able to hone a sharp edge on a poorly made chisel that I could not get a good edge using hand sharpeners. It is well worth the price.
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