There have been a few threads recently mentioning gum, eucalyptus and Lyptus.
I use Lyptus as my principal wood. I find it easy to mill, although a bit hard on tooling. Finishes well with oil being the best and needs to be kept out of the sun unfinished or it will severly check. (Someone mentioned nasty splinters. Boy, was he right on! Best to work with rough stock with good gloves on.)
What are your thoughts:
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Michael in San Jose
“In all affairs it’s a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted.” Bertrand Russell
Replies
Michael,
I haven't worked Lyptus, but I have spent a bit of time on rose gum (the main contributor to the hybrid.)
You may need to mark rebates etc with a cutting gauge before cutting (avoids the splintering where you don't want it), especially if you're using a router.
Don may have more to say.
Cheers,
eddie
eddie
I did a round table for my wife last summer with a routed top and bottom edge. After a couple of big chips I finally climb-cut the routed edges. Climb-cutting left a very ncie edge._________________________________
Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
Michael, one of our local hardwood dealers carries lyptus, and I've been interested in awhile in using it for a project, but this stuff about it being "a bit hard on tooling" puts me off a bit (pun not intended).
How "hard on tooling" is it? Are we talking router bits and planer blades here? Table saw blades? Until I get some paying projects, I can't afford to have these wear out very fast!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
fg
Non-carbide tooling takes a beating. I went through three Timberwolve blades resawing maybe 400 lf. Put a 1" Lenox carbide blade and it wants to cut all day.
HSS and steel blades and cutters will wear faster using this material. But in the end it is soooo nice._________________________________
Michael in San Jose
"In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell
FG
Everything is relative, whilst I may say that many of the eucs arn't hard on gear it's because I've got used to them & tend to sharpen when it's needed rather than get that little bit extra out of a blade. (=false economy as a bit more may need to be ground off to compensate). It is easy for me as saw doc turns up every 2nd Friday, & if I'm not in the workshop will check the blades & bits & do what he thinks need it. I also trust him not to rip me off & so far (3 yrs) we've had a good relationship.
Having said that I have not yet thrown away a router bit because of wear*, & only 2 sets of thicknesser blades. A couple of saw blades are now 'emergency use only', having probably had their last grind.
My advice is try it, I think melamine & laminate is way tougher on blades than most timber.
When the referrences site 'moderate dulling effect on tooling' it puts it in the same catagory as your oaks & even Douglas fir.
Don
*I tend to buy new ones before they get too badly worn - just a junky I guess.
Thanks for the perspective Don. The comparison to our oak lumber helps me understand better!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
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